xBLUECALXx
Member
- :
- 2007 mazdaspeed6: Cobb SRI, Cobb TIP, Cobb AP.
how is this format?
Cobb AP Discussion Thread
- Thread starter djdanny5000
- Start date
i'm still learning this stuff but your a/f's look alittle crazy here and there. and they seem to be all over the place.
for instance, plot 13,17,and 23 the a/f's jump pretty high. lean that would be, i think. but your still making boost.
also you should log ltf's.
knock looks fine though. oh, and you should mention what you did. i.e. 3rd WOT.
for instance, plot 13,17,and 23 the a/f's jump pretty high. lean that would be, i think. but your still making boost.
also you should log ltf's.
knock looks fine though. oh, and you should mention what you did. i.e. 3rd WOT.
What's with all the KR in 5th gear? That can't be good, right?
dougefresh_
Member
- :
- 2006 MS6 wwp
You'll have to do the MAF recal whenever you change airflow mods, BUT after you struggle through understanding it and doing it once, it is simple. I can do it in 15 minutes, which includes warming up the car, doing the test perfect, coming home, analyzing the logs, and cutting a good map. Take the time to learn and understand it... it will benefit you more than 2 map cuts. Read and understand the rest of the manual, and you'll sleep well at night, lol.
That's a million times better, lol. AFRs in rows 13, 17, 32 are high because that's where he shifted, and AFRs hit 29ish during shifts. Next time log Accel Ped Pos% and LTFT so we know when you're dipping into WOT, and when your ECU is calling for WOT afrs. The KR looks great.. ignore anything at .35... the KR sensor goes deaf at high rpms, and .7 is nothing I'd sweat at ALL. Your fuel pressure looks great too, but don't get too comfy with it. My fuel pressure was just as strong with the stage 2 map too, but I caught it trailing under 1,200 and 1,000 PSI a few times, and upgraded to a hpfp. Was my stocker keeping up? Yeah, most the time.. I guess... I wasn't logging everytime I went WOT. Am I happier now with my hpfp that holds 1700-2000 PSI always from 3K to redline? Damn straight! One less thing I have to worry about!
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Disclaimer, and I gotta peace out: I've only been using the AP and ATR for 2 months myself, and take or leave my advice at your own risk. I did spend a lot of time reading the helpfile and asking a million q's, and joined msf on several smart people's advice, and I'm glad I did. READ the helpfile, and ask q's for clarification. I gotta peace out bc I have a ton of studying to do, and want to give fair warning that I may not reply to anything... not trying to be a dick. READ that helpfile again, and learn it, it can save your engine, and you paranoia. If you don't want to bother, that's fine, but pony up the loot for a protune. Good luck to all of ya, and good night!!
- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
what should my vacuum be at idle?
my boost gauge reads -20 something at idle.
Dougefresh, thats for your time and advice. and good luck on your exams.
lynnriderm6
Member
whats perfect afr at wot? mid to high 11s?
dougefresh_
Member
- :
- 2006 MS6 wwp
Anytime. And thanks for wishing me luck =) And that's about where I idle too -19 to -21. I've seen it drop to like -25ish during 'foot off gas' engine braking.
It varies with rpms, but mid 11s is good. Open ATR, and look at your OL/WOT fuel table targets. You should just see rpms in 500 increments, and the corresponding AFRs. Before you mess with them check your WOT data logs to make sure you are hitting these targets. Read the "establishing safe fuel targets" or something like that... it's either step 3 or 4. Because if you're not hitting them, you may need to further adjust your MAF.
xBLUECALXx
Member
- :
- 2007 mazdaspeed6: Cobb SRI, Cobb TIP, Cobb AP.
Alright I did another datalog today in 4th gear and I want to make sure my LTFT's are good. Whats the parameters?
tryin to get a handle on my ltft's.
this log is for maf calibration as per instructions from the cobb help file. i reset the ecu and flashed on the latest version ots map i'm running. stage+sf 93 octane ver.104 and drove the car for 50 miles or so.
the maf voltage seems to be ok, but my ltft's are still crazy. why are they constantly making adjustments? is the maf reading right?
this log is for maf calibration as per instructions from the cobb help file. i reset the ecu and flashed on the latest version ots map i'm running. stage+sf 93 octane ver.104 and drove the car for 50 miles or so.
the maf voltage seems to be ok, but my ltft's are still crazy. why are they constantly making adjustments? is the maf reading right?
DetroitMS6
Member
The MS6 uses five different LTFT Breakpoints from;
0 ~5 grams/sec
~5.01 ~18 grams/sec
~18.01 ~31 grams/sec
~31.01 ~69 grams/sec
~69.01 grams/sec full sensor range
Notice on your log the LTFT changes at these break points. Thats why they are changing.
For 0- 5.01 try 1.06 in your multiplier table.
5.01 - 18.01 -1.08
31.01- 69- 1.09
69.01- plus 1.09
I think those multipliers should get you close to 0 LTFT.
- :
- MazdaSpeed 6
one of the best post ive seen in this thread.. thank you sir.
thanks for this info. though before i go plugging these figures in. how did you come about these figures. forgive me, i'm still learning this. i'm unsure how one knows what multipliers to use.
Just installed the Denso ITV22's on my 07 MS6 and took it for a spin today. Now noticing KR spikes of around 4.9 in the upper RPM's. At one point under sudden load, the AP said I had a KR spike of over 8 for a quick second, but I wasn't logging at the time. I'm 100% stock except for the AP with the Stage 1 93 1.03 installed. I ordered a COBB SF, and I'm waiting for it to come in since it's currently backordered from COBB. I was hoping to get these knock issues pressed out before I put the new intake and map on.
My Denso's are currently gapped @ .030. Do you guys think I should back the gap down to .027 or so??
(stripper)
My Denso's are currently gapped @ .030. Do you guys think I should back the gap down to .027 or so??
(stripper)
did you reset your ecu after?
My question with background:
Running: Stage 1 sf map now.
Mods are: Custom FMIC (8x3.5x28), PG SRI, PG TIP.
Mods on order: ATP 3" Full Length Catted DP
which map would you guys reccomend as a good point, map wise, to start tuning from after i get the DP on?
Thanks,
Mike.
My question with background:
Running: Stage 1 sf map now.
Mods are: Custom FMIC (8x3.5x28), PG SRI, PG TIP.
Mods on order: ATP 3" Full Length Catted DP
which map would you guys reccomend as a good point, map wise, to start tuning from after i get the DP on?
Thanks,
Mike.
DetroitMS6
Member
I got those figures from experience with ATR. I used to have +11 LTFT. I got them down to +/- 0. Basicly when you get a + number you are running a little lean. A - number means you're running rich.
Adding a multiplier like 1.06 means you are telling the ECU to add 6 percent more fuel.
DetroitMS6
Member
Just installed the Denso ITV22's on my 07 MS6 and took it for a spin today. Now noticing KR spikes of around 4.9 in the upper RPM's. At one point under sudden load, the AP said I had a KR spike of over 8 for a quick second, but I wasn't logging at the time. I'm 100% stock except for the AP with the Stage 1 93 1.03 installed. I ordered a COBB SF, and I'm waiting for it to come in since it's currently backordered from COBB. I was hoping to get these knock issues pressed out before I put the new intake and map on.
My Denso's are currently gapped @ .030. Do you guys think I should back the gap down to .027 or so??
(stripper)
The three most common answers to KR usually are:
Run better gas
Pull some timing or
Back off the boost.
What are your throttle request loads at?
I'll do some more logs later this morning and record the TRL. I'm just running the stock 93 map on MD 93 octane, and I wasn't having this much knock before with the FoMoCo stock plugs. I'm gonna close the gap some and see if that helps too.
