Chuyler1's new audio install log.

[basementgeek]

The tweeters are a little loud even on the lowest setting...If I can't dial them down with my parameteric EQ then I'll consider running fully active.

Yeah I had the same problem with A pillar tweets. I dropped them as much as -7db on the crossover and probably still could've eq'd some more but I gave up and dropped the tweets to the kickpanel instead. With a 3 way set up, you might have more luck and not get a sonic hole caused by the drop in db.

 

[basementgeek]

s***. I forgot to upload the photos from my camera last night.

I did some more listening and messing with the PEQ. I came to two conclusions. There are still some funky things going on with midbass that are most likely caused by the car and not the speakers. With the eclipses I had to adjust 400hz and 800hz and those settings sounded fine with the Iridiums.

There is also a little harshness in the midrange domes at really loud listening levels. I couldn't narrow down the band though, maybe somewhere between 3KHz and 8KHz. It might be caused by the suffocating grills, the lack of sound deadening on the kickpanels, or I am simply reaching the limit of the amplifier. If I turn it down a few clicks my ears stop complaining or I set a Q of 1-3 and cut 6-9db somewhere between 3-8KHz the harshness also goes away. I was only hearing this in loud passages of Tool Lateralus and GnR Use Your Illusion 2. I think I need to see it on an RTA.

Yes .....pics please!

I have similar issues with harshness. Almost like overtones at certain frequencies and high volumes. With my set up, I'm confident it's not the amp, but I also think it's car related, as my peq efforts prove difficult as well. I'm thinking the center console may contribute to odd reflection and sonic phasing issues. I'm definitely in need of an RTA to figure it out.

I'm curious to see how yours turns out.

 

[bazooka joe]

no audiofile here, you guys are the pro's....i would suggest when using the hole saw, cutting the openings in the plastic, use a saw for metal not wood...the wood will have a more "tearing" effect and the fine teeth used for metal will be less aggressive...just my 2 cents...pls continue, i love to read this stuff even though i don;t know half of what you're talking about...

 

[Poseur]

Would breakin be much of an issue here? I'd assume seeing as you've used the other parts before implementing the domes that they might need to "catch up" with the rest of the system, yes? I'm not really sure if this is uch of an issue with domes as i've unfortunately not had much of an oppertunity to play with them beyond a couplefew sets of towers we've got here at work.

 

[chuyler1]

Could be...The manual says to allow 15-20hrs of break in. I'm probably only at 4-5hrs with the domes but the woofers are prolly fully broken in.

FYI...I'm really glad I didn't purchase the 6.2 set. The midbass drivers are great for midbass but they are very harsh in the upper range. I was running them full range for a short while and it was really hurting my ears. I also read a quick review by someone who has a Clarion DRZ9255 and Iridium 6.3s in a fully active configuration. For the fun of it, he shut off the mid channels and changed the crossovers to mimic the 6.2s...He said the sound stage was drastically affected and upper midrange just didn't sound right.

 

[FoxPro5]

I just read a review the other day on the new Noblium set and the guy noticed the same things early on. He had the customer bring the car back a week later and the system sounded much better. They may just need to get some play time on them.

You have to be pretty stoked that you are getting such good results off that 85 watts. When I dropped my passives I noticed a big difference in the system's volume. Never knew they were that inefficient with power.

So if you go fully active 4 way, you need another 4 channels of amplification right? Or do you have that ready to go.

Still waiting on pics of the mid in the factory kicks

 

[chuyler1]

They are starting to smooth out. Today I put some of the same tracks on and they weren't as bad. My fiance thought the tweeters were a little too bright (even with them on the lowest setting) while listening to Axl sing on "Civil War" but things sounded just right on Eagles "Hotel California". (Both CDs are still in my changer so I keep jumping between them)

oh...pics...brb...my camera is still in the car.

 

[chuyler1]

As for going fully active, I'd probably pick up another DLS amp, an A8 to be exact. That would give me 500w for subs, 85w for midbass, 40w for midrange, and 40w for highs. I think it would be a nice mix (especially with the added efficency of not using passive crossovers) and it would keep me under a 600w total power rating for competition purposes (should I decide to compete...the sub channel on the A5 is rated 300w @ 4ohms if you are doing the math in your head)

Anyway, here are the mids...

They are almost entirely blocked by the dashboard as you can see from the distance shots (which were taken at my ear level). Due to the shape of the driver's side kickpanel, only three screws are holding that one on...ghetto I know...but it isn't going anywhere. A aplogize for the gross plastic floor mats...I was about to remove them and then it snowed yesterday.

 

[khaosman]

Niiiice!

 

[Greg S]

Are you going to build new kick panels? Looks like you would be able to bring them down and back enough to have a clear shot with new kicks and still take up no more foot room than they do now. Might also even out the tweeter levels with a more direct shot from the mid.

Oh yeah, they look great BTW.

 

[FoxPro5]

Those dome are pretty nondirectional arent they? I mean they still sound great at even 60+ degrees off axis. I believe Scott Buwaldas Altima had them mounted very similarly. But yes, custom kicks would be cool.

 

[chuyler1]

I thought about doing custom kicks...I've got all the supplies...but this was just so simple, how could I resist? I will probably revisit them once I have completed the amp rack.

I really want to go fully active but that means investing in a crossover. The cheapest solution would be the Audiocontrol 4XS ($150-250) but that doesn't allow me to stagger crossover points and it doesn't offer any sort of EQ. I could spend more for one of the AudioControl digital units ($500-700) but then that puts a second A/D and D/A converter in my signal path. The best solution would be a new head unit ($800-1500) which has all the capabilities I require but I'm just not ready to spend that kind of dough.

I've been trying to see if I could make a CarPuter to suit my needs but there doesn't appear to be any crossover software out there and the EQ software I've seen isn't that great. Additionally, people seem to have noise issues with using sound cards and an optical out seems to be the best way to get around it...but an optical output requires a unit with an optical input...which increases the price again. ughhh. Maybe I should just stick with my 85w passive configuration!

 

[Poseur]

isn't it annoying how uneven the dash really is when you get down to it? somuch more room on the driver's side for kicks..... I suppose this is to the driver's seat listener benefit really.

 

[chuyler1]

Hmm, maybe I should remove the whole dash and go all fiberglass!!!

NOT!

There has to be a compromise between OEM-look and SQ-enhancements. You have to know when to say when...and if you don't you end up with a fully custom dash like Scott Buwalda's latest creation. Sure, his taste is minimalistic, but in a search for a sonic masterpiece he has left nothing stock.

I like showing off my work as much as the next installer but if I'm thinking about doing something that will cause my everyday usage of the vehicle to be compromised...I usually have to think twice and do something different. I could build some pretty cool custom kicks...but with my hiking boots on I already have kicked the mids when moving my foot back to the dead pedal after shifting. I honestly don't think I could sacrifice another 1" of space over there without being annoyed by the speaker. The same goes with the trunk. Sure a pair of 12"s would give me perfect response down to 20Hz...but a pair of 8"s will get me down to 25-30Hz and take up a 1/3 of the space....more room for groceries and luggage.

 

[Joker_Fl]

with the mid that far away...take out that metal grill behind the plastic "basketball" grill. You'll get much more sound out of the 3 and it sounds much more muffled with that metal grill in there. They are ment to come out, just pull......GENTLY!

edit:
Ohh btw...there are many people out there with full fiberglass dashes that drive their car daily...it can be done, and also give you that "oem" feel.

But going overboard on a car has its downfalls...im to the point where i don't want to drive my protege any more.

Meatball

 

[chuyler1]

Yeah...I read on another forum that removing the grill and adding some sound dampening material to the back will allow them to play cleaner in the lower registers. I was going to pull the grill off the second I opened the box but it didn't come off with ease...I'll give it a little more force the next time I have them out of my car.

 

[Joker_Fl]

Yeah...I read on another forum that removing the grill and adding some sound dampening material to the back will allow them to play cleaner in the lower registers. I was going to pull the grill off the second I opened the box but it didn't come off with ease...I'll give it a little more force the next time I have them out of my car.

Take a soldering iron and warm the metal up. It will break the glue up fairly quickly. ( i have encouterd several stubborn ones)

 

[chuyler1]

I had all day to get some work done! The new plan is to ditch the spare tire and create an amprack and sub enclosure that sits on the floor. The bottom of the sub enclosure will be fiberglass and the trim around the amps, subs, and other components will be fiberglass also.

Mapping out my design on 1/2" MDF. Amps will be in the back side-by-side. Front and center will be the two Eclipse 8" subs. To the right will be the Clarion processor and to the left will be a PPI FRX-456 crossover.

I used the router and perfect circle jig to get nice clean corners.

I used the router again for the inner edges.

Clamps and a straight board work wonders!

All the curves and lines finished. Tool longer than I expected though.

Next step was to cut them out. The jig saw was a breeze for this...just stay between the lines.

Once removed, I flipped it over and cleaned up the edges with a tracing bit.

And this will give you an idea of what it will look like when finished. Fiberglass will be stretched between the top and bottom pieces.

LOL, the router shoots dust everywhere! Just look at the wall. I know this looks like quick easy steps but it takes a very long time to line up cuts with the router. If you are off by as little as a 1/16" you'll have to do quite a bit of sanding to fix the error. I guess that's why the pros use CNC routers.

Up next, I have to duplicate the top piece on 1/4" MDF. After fiberglassing I will lay it over the top. That piece and the inner pieces will be painted. If I paint the fiberglass it will go blue/silver/blue. If I decide to vinyl the fiberglass portion it will go silver/black-vinyl/silver. I think both would look nice so I can't decide.

I've also got to create a few more baffles for the subs. It is going to sit up an addition 3/4" to 1.5" to accomodate for the stupid hump in the tire well.

 

[bazooka joe]

nice wrok chris!! hey, don't they have a bag now to collect all that saw dust?

 

[chuyler1]

My sander has a bag, and I have a hose attachment for my jig saw, but the router just shoots the dust like 6 ft. I think they might sell adapters for it. I'll have to check Ryobi's website.