- :
- 92 & 16 Meyatas
chuyler1 said:
you can get it autozone..it's comes in a small tube already mixed too! yes it drys hard and is sandable
like this stuff
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1650&itemType=PRODUCT
Chuyler1's new audio install log.
- Thread starter chuyler1
- Start date
you can get it autozone..it's comes in a small tube already mixed too! yes it drys hard and is sandable
like this stuff
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1650&itemType=PRODUCT
Tonight I put on the first coat of primer on the trim pieces, watch some off the Redsox/Braves game, then dry sanded the trim pieces with 100 and 150 grit pads.
Tomorrow I will add a second coat to cover the edges which didn't get enough paint. Then I will sand with 100, 150, and then wet sand with 320. Once that is done I can add the final coat of silver metal specks (same brand/line as the blue paint...which I found at autozone).
Tomorrow I will add a second coat to cover the edges which didn't get enough paint. Then I will sand with 100, 150, and then wet sand with 320. Once that is done I can add the final coat of silver metal specks (same brand/line as the blue paint...which I found at autozone).
It was a beautiful day today. I took full advantage and made lots of headway. I added a second coat of primer to the trim pieces, sanded with 100/150/320 and painted with Silver Metal Specks. Then I set to work on the carpeted pieces. I added shims around the amp rack to mount the pieces to and then used paper grocery bags to create templates for each side. These pieces will be finished off in black carpet and there will be a cover piece for the entire rack that will also be finished in black carpet. The cover piece will be made of MDF combined with some sort of grill material. I think the carpet over the grill material should provide enough ventilation for the subs and amp...if it doesn't then I'll have to add some fans and switch part or all of it to grill cloth.
- :
- 92 & 16 Meyatas
lookin great chris!
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- 03 Mazda PR5
awesome awesome!
No photos today but I did some more work last night.
I ****** up when cutting the holes for all the wires. Part of my rack cracked because it was too thin. Oh well. I knew I was bound to **** up something up along the way. Maybe I'll fix it later. I need to get some sort of gaskets to clean up the holes which I made with a 1" spade drill bit. I probably should have used somethign else but that was all I had.
I blame it on my overall design. I should have incorporated more space for the RCA cables (they stick out pretty far from the amp). If I designed in more space I could have folded all the wires under my silver mounting board and fed them through a hidden hole. I could have done that if it weren't for the damn RCA cables...and I thought of L-adapters too but that still wouldn't work. ahh, whatever...you won't even see the holes when viewing the rack from the back of the car.
I mounted the amps and processors. The amps are bolted down with security screws. I was gonna use them on the subs but the heads were too small. I mounted a 1f stinger capacitor under the amps (there is dead space in the tire well that I am making good use of). Lets not debate caps...I had it from a previous install and it has a nice fused distribution block on the top so...whatever I'm using it.
I ran KnuKonceptz 4-wire RCAs between the processor and crossover, and crossover and each amp. I ran 8ga power wire from the cap to each of the amps. I linked up all the remote turn on wires by just sinking a screw into the back of the rack and using it as a binding post. It's ghetto and I'll prolly pick up something at Radioshack later to clean it up. I ran all the speaker wire to a 15-pin molex connector (only needed 12 pins, so I used one for the remote turn on also). At that point it was about 11:45 so I called it quits.
This weekend I have a few more things to do...
- wire and install the subs.
- secure all the wiring so it doesn't vibrate
- connect all the speaker wires in the car to the female molex connector
- install the rack! woohoo!
- secure the rack (I have some L-brackets that should do the trick as long as I don't put a screw through the gas tank)
- carpet the trim pieces and install them
- design, cut, and finish a cover piece
- and of course...adjust all the settings and tune everything!
I ****** up when cutting the holes for all the wires. Part of my rack cracked because it was too thin. Oh well. I knew I was bound to **** up something up along the way. Maybe I'll fix it later. I need to get some sort of gaskets to clean up the holes which I made with a 1" spade drill bit. I probably should have used somethign else but that was all I had.
I blame it on my overall design. I should have incorporated more space for the RCA cables (they stick out pretty far from the amp). If I designed in more space I could have folded all the wires under my silver mounting board and fed them through a hidden hole. I could have done that if it weren't for the damn RCA cables...and I thought of L-adapters too but that still wouldn't work. ahh, whatever...you won't even see the holes when viewing the rack from the back of the car.
I mounted the amps and processors. The amps are bolted down with security screws. I was gonna use them on the subs but the heads were too small. I mounted a 1f stinger capacitor under the amps (there is dead space in the tire well that I am making good use of). Lets not debate caps...I had it from a previous install and it has a nice fused distribution block on the top so...whatever I'm using it.
I ran KnuKonceptz 4-wire RCAs between the processor and crossover, and crossover and each amp. I ran 8ga power wire from the cap to each of the amps. I linked up all the remote turn on wires by just sinking a screw into the back of the rack and using it as a binding post. It's ghetto and I'll prolly pick up something at Radioshack later to clean it up. I ran all the speaker wire to a 15-pin molex connector (only needed 12 pins, so I used one for the remote turn on also). At that point it was about 11:45 so I called it quits.
This weekend I have a few more things to do...
- wire and install the subs.
- secure all the wiring so it doesn't vibrate
- connect all the speaker wires in the car to the female molex connector
- install the rack! woohoo!
- secure the rack (I have some L-brackets that should do the trick as long as I don't put a screw through the gas tank)
- carpet the trim pieces and install them
- design, cut, and finish a cover piece
- and of course...adjust all the settings and tune everything!
I got it from PartsExpress, They have 2, 3, 4, 6, 9, and 12 pin versions also...
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=092-566
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=092-566
I dropped the whole thing in my car yesterday and got everything connected this evening. First let me say that it weighs a ton fully loaded. Part of the fiberglass cracked but I should be able to repair it when I fix the rca holes shown above. There are alot of things I would do differently if I started from scratch but I will have to make due with what I got. After all, the goal is to listen to music right?
I still have to finish the trim pieces with carpet and create a cover piece that will make my hatch useable. Stay tuned for photos of that.
I started some tuning this evening also. This is what I've been hovering around for crossover points...
Tweeter: 6.7KHz+ (from rear signal off xover)
Midrange: 400-6.7KHz (from rear signal off xover)
Midbass: 55-312Hz (from front signal off xover)
Subs: 15-35Hz (from sub signal off xover, combined front and rear)
My first impression of the power setup is that the A5 puts out way more power than the A8. I had to crank the gains on the A8. Maybe that's because I have the mids/tweets connected to the rear-fill channels of the crossover which has its own level setting. I put the setting dead center but maybe I should bump it up and lower the gains on the amp. The FRX-456 doc doesn't say the rears are attenuated so I'm not sure.
I also had a tough time finding the right level for the midbass driver. It was either thick and muddy or non existant. I put a gap at 300-400Hz because my eclipses showed a peak in that range (prolly due to cabin gain). Later in the evening I used the PEQ to cut 125Hz because it was really sticking out in one of the Jeff Buckley tracks I was listening to.
The subs were too much no matter where I put the crossover. I dropped it down low so they'd only handle stuff my front midbass drivers couldn't take. They have a smooth response, but my amp rack is rattling too much. I will have to deaden it. Hopefully the carpeted pieces will help too.
Now the kicker will be to see how close I came to a decent curve when I get my hands on a RTA.
I spent quite a bit of time listening this evening. Mostly Jazz and soft stuff but I threw in some rock and took a drive. With my initial settings I need more low end...but I'll have to work out the midbass because as I said before, increasing the gain just makes it muddy.
Overall, I am very pleased with the sound. It is a big improvement over the passive Iridium crossovers which made the midrange drivers very harsh. The tweeters meshed a little better with the passives but I'm sure once I work out the details I will fix that. I may try lowering the xover point just to see how it sounds...but I still want as much sound coming from the domes as possible to keep the stage deep and centered.
I still have to finish the trim pieces with carpet and create a cover piece that will make my hatch useable. Stay tuned for photos of that.
I started some tuning this evening also. This is what I've been hovering around for crossover points...
Tweeter: 6.7KHz+ (from rear signal off xover)
Midrange: 400-6.7KHz (from rear signal off xover)
Midbass: 55-312Hz (from front signal off xover)
Subs: 15-35Hz (from sub signal off xover, combined front and rear)
My first impression of the power setup is that the A5 puts out way more power than the A8. I had to crank the gains on the A8. Maybe that's because I have the mids/tweets connected to the rear-fill channels of the crossover which has its own level setting. I put the setting dead center but maybe I should bump it up and lower the gains on the amp. The FRX-456 doc doesn't say the rears are attenuated so I'm not sure.
I also had a tough time finding the right level for the midbass driver. It was either thick and muddy or non existant. I put a gap at 300-400Hz because my eclipses showed a peak in that range (prolly due to cabin gain). Later in the evening I used the PEQ to cut 125Hz because it was really sticking out in one of the Jeff Buckley tracks I was listening to.
The subs were too much no matter where I put the crossover. I dropped it down low so they'd only handle stuff my front midbass drivers couldn't take. They have a smooth response, but my amp rack is rattling too much. I will have to deaden it. Hopefully the carpeted pieces will help too.
Now the kicker will be to see how close I came to a decent curve when I get my hands on a RTA.
I spent quite a bit of time listening this evening. Mostly Jazz and soft stuff but I threw in some rock and took a drive. With my initial settings I need more low end...but I'll have to work out the midbass because as I said before, increasing the gain just makes it muddy.
Overall, I am very pleased with the sound. It is a big improvement over the passive Iridium crossovers which made the midrange drivers very harsh. The tweeters meshed a little better with the passives but I'm sure once I work out the details I will fix that. I may try lowering the xover point just to see how it sounds...but I still want as much sound coming from the domes as possible to keep the stage deep and centered.
- :
- 92 & 16 Meyatas
i saw and heard it last night, and it really sounds great!...there were some nice lows for 2-8" subs...!! i was impressed!
No progress this week. But I cleaned out my basement and put a bunch of stuff up for sale on eBay including my old ECLIPSE midrange drivers, an MTX amp (sold my other amps on a different forum), and my DLS Iridium crossovers.
http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZchuyler1
http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZchuyler1
Question about that molex plug you used. Do they have ones that can hold a pretty heavy gauge, like 10 or 8 gauge? I'd love to have a quick disconnect plug for my basslink. It's nice and compact and all but sometimes it would be nice to yank it out for hauling stuff. I've been planning on it since I got the basslink in nearly a year ago but didn't know where ot look for the stuff.
