Another rant at Dealer....
- Thread starter YellowMSP4KP
- Start date
YellowMSP4KP
Member
Mine's valvetrain noise. It speed up and slows down when you rev it. It's just more noticeable at idle.
Turbo Matty P
Banned
nuttin honey... I never had any valve noise. I'd be pissed if I did though! Not that iu wasn't pissed enough about the problems I had.
blubyu21117
Member
what the dealership told you is unacceptable !!!!
they are authorized MAZDASPEED dealers, and they would want to take pride in their cars!!!
if the car has a clunk, it should be fixed, no questions asked.
that is why the warranty is there.
my car does have a ticking sound, though.
i think it is the valvetrain.
they are authorized MAZDASPEED dealers, and they would want to take pride in their cars!!!
if the car has a clunk, it should be fixed, no questions asked.
that is why the warranty is there.
my car does have a ticking sound, though.
i think it is the valvetrain.
MazdaSpeed0020
Member
- :
- 2003 Black Mica MSP
pingdum said:
I tried to take my car to a regular mazda dealership and they did not do any work to it saying that i have to go to an authorized mazdaspeed dealer for them to do the work.
matt
About the pulling to the left thing... Go to Sears or NTB or somewhere that has free alignment checks. If you go to Sears, they'll give you a printout with your alignment's settings on it.
I took my car to the dealer because it pulled to the right. They said it was 'within spec' but, I took it to Sears who said 3 wheels were clearly out of spec and handed me a printout in color of how badly out of spec it really was. Today I'm calling the dealer and letting them know they need to REALLY CHECK it this time and ACTUALLY align my car.
From my experience, no dealer wants to do warranty work. I don't know why they bother offering a warranty if they're not going to honor it.
I took my car to the dealer because it pulled to the right. They said it was 'within spec' but, I took it to Sears who said 3 wheels were clearly out of spec and handed me a printout in color of how badly out of spec it really was. Today I'm calling the dealer and letting them know they need to REALLY CHECK it this time and ACTUALLY align my car.
From my experience, no dealer wants to do warranty work. I don't know why they bother offering a warranty if they're not going to honor it.
Turbo Matty P
Banned
The warranty is a "peace of mind" addition only. Some companies even call their warranties "Peace of mind proctection plan". Through my experiences with this I've come to one conclusion...
NEVER SIGN AN ARBITRATION AGREEMENT.
It signs away your constitutional right to a trial by judge. Arbitration is also supposed to be cheaper, but you have to pay fees to even get in line. It was going to cost me over $3200 to even GO to arbitration. On top of that I was going to lose as an arbitrator doesn't look at the law. They only judge based on what they think is "fair". My lawyers informed me that this is 90% of the time in favor of the major company as they have stuff in writing. After losing arbitration you have to pay the winners arbitration fees. So there's another $3200. You can damn near buy another protege for $6400. If I would've been able to just go straight to court the legal acts outlined here and on SEMA would've assured me a victory.
Dealerships do this because they know they can squeeze you into submission. I will NEVER buy another car without signing an arbitration agreement. I suggest you do the same.
I'm going to start another thread with this in it so I don't thread jack.
Thanks.
NEVER SIGN AN ARBITRATION AGREEMENT.
It signs away your constitutional right to a trial by judge. Arbitration is also supposed to be cheaper, but you have to pay fees to even get in line. It was going to cost me over $3200 to even GO to arbitration. On top of that I was going to lose as an arbitrator doesn't look at the law. They only judge based on what they think is "fair". My lawyers informed me that this is 90% of the time in favor of the major company as they have stuff in writing. After losing arbitration you have to pay the winners arbitration fees. So there's another $3200. You can damn near buy another protege for $6400. If I would've been able to just go straight to court the legal acts outlined here and on SEMA would've assured me a victory.
Dealerships do this because they know they can squeeze you into submission. I will NEVER buy another car without signing an arbitration agreement. I suggest you do the same.
I'm going to start another thread with this in it so I don't thread jack.
Thanks.
. is it cool or not. yah....and stuff =P- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
blubyu21117 said:
Lol...........
1. If the tech didnt hear the clunking you should ask to ride with him and point it out (I love when people do this it saves me soo much time).
2. All 2.0s make awful ticking noises at idle....its the lifter design/alignment I have been told....
3. If you are unhappy with the way the dealership treated you ask to speak with the man. and voice your concerns....they can usually help.
Turbo Matty P
Banned
huh, This is what I was told by my dealerships only mazdaspeed certified SALESMAN....yes they told me only specailly trained salesmen were allowed to sell these cars. Luckily he was my buddy. I wouldn't have bought from anyone else there. I know them (former employee) and they are all dirty bastards
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
For a dealership to be a "true" Mazdaspeed dealership, the salesmen, parts dept. and technicians have to go to the mazdaspeed specialty training school.
YellowMSP4KP
Member
Ok, so the ticking sound is normal? If it's that loud at 6k miles, I wonder how loud it will be at 60k or 160k.
- :
- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
I've noticed them to be louder in cold weather.....I don't think milage makes that much difference...
Turbo Matty P
Banned
I've driven my new P5 for about 800 miles and havent noticed any noise, bnut I'm getting a weird vibration in the front end when it's cold. I thought it was clutch chatter, but it does it with the clutch in and cruising. After about 5 miles it's gone. It's like driving on gravel I guess....Any ideas?
