ALL Unichip Questions / Problems

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Is UniChip worth it?

Whats up guys Im new to this forum and I wanted some opinions. I have a SMIC with hardpipes, Injen CAI, Greddy BOV, Vibrant TB exhaust, Turbosmart MBC running at about 8psi. I occasionally hit fuel cut especially since its colder out and i am interested in getting the Unichip piggyback because I was told this would solv ethis issue. Anyway I want the UniChip with the SMIC, CAI, Turbo back and Intake Mani map...is it worth it? Keep in mind I still have to get the intake mani but will the manifold produce noticeable results to pay the extra $ or instead should I go with the map tuned for a CAI and Turboback? Any input would be greatly appreciated!!!
 
I have similar mods to you and I never have fuel cut with the unichip. It really helps smooth things out. I'm about to put the 626 intake manifold on and from what I've researched it requires a dyno tune and dealers can be hard to find. You could also get a dyno and send it along with the unichip to JDM Sam who will put a map that fits on it for you. If that's all you're going to do to the engine I would say unichip is great but if there's more you want to do it would probably be easier to get the SSFTC because you can tune it yourself.
 
What WGA are you using? Sometimes the fuel cut ssue is caused by that instead of a tune issue. I had the same issue and swapped the WGA with the forge unit the cut went away. as far as ems goes...Split Second seems to have a better following, that's what I'm about to use I was actually considering the AEM EMS, but not enough people on this board have really got into it.
 
SSAFC does not advance timing. Unichip does. Only problem it's not user tuneable. Only use them if you are just doing bolt-on parts. If you are near me get a Unichip.
 
if you have a unichip dealer near you go with the unichip if not then go with a AEM wideband and a SplitSecond.
 
If you are near me get a Unichip.

For sure! LOL. I've been running the unichip up here in MN for a year or so now. Got fuel cut INSANE on high boost (any temp under 60 degrees). I've gone through a few deals with the setup, but currently run no boost controller, i'm pushing 9 psi with the ATP wastegate replacement and don't hit fuel cut at all anymore. This summer I'll put back on my MBC if I feel bored and see what happens, but for now 9psi works.

.Don't get a unichip unless you have a tuner in your area who is reputable and not expensive as hell.

.Check your wastegate accuator for the fuel cut issues, replacing it was a huge help for me.
 
Yes, it works when you custom tune it. When you do a 626 or VTCS/VICS removal you increase the airflow and the AFR's on the Unichip base maps are lean and this is bad especially if you flip the boost controller on.

I personally don't recommend that manifold because you can just delete the factory VTCS/VICS flaps and retain the needed vacuum ports and original EGR tubing. If you want even more air bore the VICS chamber completely out like this.
http://mazdaspeedtuning.com/manifold.jpg
http://mazdaspeedtuning.com/manifold2.jpg
The gains people are seeing with the 626 manifold are from the added airflow leaning out the factory rich air fuel mixture.
 
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i didnt want to read through the entire thread but was trying to remember what map setting is best for my mods(listed in my sig)
thanks
 
Whats up guys Im new to this forum and I wanted some opinions. I have a SMIC with hardpipes, Injen CAI, Greddy BOV, Vibrant TB exhaust, Turbosmart MBC running at about 8psi. I occasionally hit fuel cut especially since its colder out and i am interested in getting the Unichip piggyback because I was told this would solv ethis issue. Anyway I want the UniChip with the SMIC, CAI, Turbo back and Intake Mani map...is it worth it? Keep in mind I still have to get the intake mani but will the manifold produce noticeable results to pay the extra $ or instead should I go with the map tuned for a CAI and Turboback? Any input would be greatly appreciated!!!
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123723938

(End shameless plug. ;))
 
Rush the plug was nice but I already bought my Unichip...sorry...but i do have another question for anyone who knows...will getting the IM ported and polished make a difference that will be worth the cost?
 
Hey guys,
I wonder if you can help me out.
I've had a Unichip on the car since 2006 and last October I noticed that the car started acting weird as it got colder outside. It would want to stall as it came to a stop and it was burning PIG RICH!! So much so that it burned my brand new Magnaflow CAT. I tried everything to figure it out and people on my Toronto Protege board kept telling me to pull out my Unichip. I took it to the shop where I had the Unichip installed and wouldn't you know it, the car started working normal as soon as I got there and stayed normal till the next day. He could figure out what the problem was but he knew I wasn't about to drive an hour to his shop for nothing. Next day, the car was acting crappy again so I decided to pull the Unichip out and run the stock ECU. As soon as I did that, the car ran normal. I got on the phone with Unichip but they pretty much told me some BS about the Unichip making my car a sharp pencil and the stock ECU making my car a stubby pencil and my car doesn't like to be a sharp pencil and that's not the Unichip's fault.

What the hell is wrong here?

I've relocated the MAF to my hotpipe to get my Forge BOV to work without stalling.

Could that be the problem?
 
The MAF should stay in stock location and recirculate if you can't open vent w/o stalling. Recirculating is better for performance anyways. If you think a noise is cooler, ask yourself do you want to be faster or slower and hear a noise?
 
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