Flip the power switch on and off and listen in the engine bay for a clicking noise. If you hear one then you may have a messed up Unichip harness.
ALL Unichip Questions / Problems
- Thread starter Rush
- Start date
Flip the power switch on and off and listen in the engine bay for a clicking noise. If you hear one then you may have a messed up Unichip harness.
This is kinda off the Unichip problem topic but I just had my car tuned with the Unichip and the tuner couldnt get the ECU to allow him to adjust the A/F ratios btwn 1800 and 3800 rpms. After 3800 its completely tuned and runs like a bat out of hell. Has anyone else ever had this happen and is there a way around it? Also, he said i need to look into a SS oxygen sensor simulator...he said it would fool the ecu into thinking I am running 14.7 across the board and allow him to tune btwn 1800 and 3800 better. Is this true? Anyway, I ended up with 192.4 whp and 193.1 tq just shy of the 200 whp I wanted...damn!!!
Yea I know no one in TN and it sucks. I went to Batlground Engineering in Smyrna, Ga. They're just outside of Atlanta. Worth the trip he did a great job and was cool as hell. Tuner's name is Danny...the number is 770-319-9605 they're open M-F 10a-6p
Awesome, Smyrna is not far at all. Thanks for the info, man!
mazdafreak7
Member
- :
- 03 MSP
ok, so i just bought an 03 msp and it has a unichip installed and im not sure how the thing works.. the switches are in the glove box, what are the functions of these switches, ive tried each combo of turning them on and i cant tell any difference when driving the car. Also, on the boost solenoid on the battery box, which hoses go where on the solenoid? to where on the engine? one of the solenoid ports is just blocked off and this isnt how a normal boost solenoid should be when connected up, there has to be some type of vent correct?
The top port goes to the crank case vent, and the side ones go between the wastegate and vacuum source.
yellowmsp035
Member
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- Yellow 2003.5 MSP
at least no ones has caught on fire like mine did
mazdafreak7
Member
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- 03 MSP
Ok so i got you on the top port, thats the one that would face up toward the hood right? but what do you mean the side goes "between" wg and vac? right now the top port goes to intake vacuum source from brake booster line, the side port facing the engine is capped off and the one facing the fender goes right to the wastgate actuator..im assuming that is incorrect, it dosent seem right
OK, actually I was mistaken. Here's how mine was hooked up.
The one on top goes to the vac source, the one on the right goes to crank case ventilation, the one on the left goes to the wastegate.
Here' the pic directly from the Unichip instructions
And here's the excerpt for installing the BC from Unichip instructions.
c. Position the 3-way valve on the shelf with the valve’s black end facing the car’s front with Port 3 facing up.
d. Using the kit provided self-drilling screws, mount the valve to the shelf.
e. Attach the empty end of kit supplied vacuum line labeled Port 2 onto Port 2.
f. Locate the vacuum T-fitting next to the engine case and disconnect the boost line going down under the engine. Disconnect the 900 line and attach it to the coupler on the end of the line from Port 2.
g. Attach the kit supplied vacuum line labeled Port 3 to the 900 T-fitting and to Port 3.
h. Locate the thick crank case ventilation vacuum line near the top of the engine and cut it in two approximately 4-inches from where it goes under the engine cover’s edge. Apply a little spray lubricant to the open nipples of kit supplied vacuum line labeled Port 1 and install them into the separated OEM tubing.
Insertion Tool
Photo 12
i. Attach the other end of kit supplied vacuum line labeled Port 1 on Port 1.
j. Connect the 3-way valve electrical connector.
i. (Photo 12) Locate the Boost Control loom you pushed into the engine compartment and plug the connector into the 3-way valve’s electrical pigtail.
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mazdafreak7
Member
- :
- 03 MSP
awesome thanks for taking the time to post all that! it sounds like some idiot had the vac routing totally screwed up on this thing..no wonder it wasnt working! another thing i noticed is when i hit the throttle that little black section on the solenoid vibrates and makes noise, right where that little window/circle port is on the black part, side that faces front of car..is that normal or is it junk?
No problem. Glad to help.
hmmmm, don't know about that one. Try to get it re-routed then see what happens. I wouldn't think it should make noise, but then again I've only ever hit the boost switch while I was driving, so I am not sure. The two wires from the solenoid are going to the Unichip harness right?
mazdafreak7
Member
- :
- 03 MSP
yes, the harness is correct. im going to switch those lines around this afternoon and ill get back to ya. Also this solenoid is non adjustable correct? does it have a set boost level that will always stay the same?
The boost level is set in the Unichip programming. The only way to change it is to tune the Unichip, or you can hook it up to an AEM (or equivelant) Tru-Boost gauge, or another electronic boost controller (that comes with that solenoid). That solenoid is pretty universal, I have seen it used in multiple applications.
Just let me know how it goes after the re-routing, and if there is still a problem we'll figure it out.
mazdafreak7
Member
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- 03 MSP
i got it figured out..thank you for the help
Hey just trash it and get a manual boost controller just set it as low as you can and turn it up as you get to the boost you want.
This works, I know. I had to do that after the other one spiked past 21psi and blew my motor the first time.!
See Y'all would of had all this information if the mods would not have been corup. The UniJunk has blown up quit a few motors .
JDM knows he's one of the mods from way back.
This works, I know. I had to do that after the other one spiked past 21psi and blew my motor the first time.!
See Y'all would of had all this information if the mods would not have been corup. The UniJunk has blown up quit a few motors .
JDM knows he's one of the mods from way back.
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question time:
I got a WB and stuffed it in the car I noticed right off the bat that at idle and light cruise the afr's are nice at ~14.7 but what wories me a little is that when I step on it and the loop switches from closed to open for boosting the AFR's with spike to 15-16 for a second before dropping to 9-10 then stabilizing to 12-13.
Should I be concerned about this?
Also if I'm on the highway and I let off the gas the WB goes off the chart lean. again is this problematic?
I did notice this thread from a while back http://protege5.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123628881 with a similar symptom but no conclusion
ideas?
I got a WB and stuffed it in the car I noticed right off the bat that at idle and light cruise the afr's are nice at ~14.7 but what wories me a little is that when I step on it and the loop switches from closed to open for boosting the AFR's with spike to 15-16 for a second before dropping to 9-10 then stabilizing to 12-13.
Should I be concerned about this?
Also if I'm on the highway and I let off the gas the WB goes off the chart lean. again is this problematic?
I did notice this thread from a while back http://protege5.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123628881 with a similar symptom but no conclusion
ideas?
