ALL Unichip Questions / Problems

Yea, I checked that...switches are fine and the ECU switch is set to on (red light is on) I know its working but for some reason it still give you that delay of power...like once I get to 5k it pulls you back and the power in unleashed...hmm I might just sell this and get an AFC1 or something
Still takes time to turn the car on, just cranks and cranks...uh

yah, the unichip stock tune is not as advertised. this was supposed to illiminate hesitation??? I still like mine, don't get me wrong, but it NEEDS to be tuned, desperately...

checkout the front page of my cardomain for the dyno and you see the power is way down in the med range.
 
Thanks LASERBLUE135, nice car! Got the same color, you just have a CF grill and fogs..and different exhaust. But yea I think it was just the flip switch, I'm going to stop by Split Sec since I'm in SOcal and see if they can cut me a deal if they have any V1s left.
 
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unichip question??

well i was looking at the unichips for my MSP and i found one for almost 900 dollars . i told some friends at work and they told me that was an impossible price that i was probably looking at the wrong thing, im fairly new to modding cars, so my question is was he right, should it be cheaper than that , and if so where can i find it for teh cheaper price. also for those of you who already have 1 how much did u pay?
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Anyone know that with a Ported STOCK intake manifold w/ the VTCS Removed if the unichip will have issues with it? I have been hearing that the unichip cannot work well or has issues when you perform this mod... can anyone shed some light on this?
 
Get a SSAFC, as it allows end user tuning. You could buy it and get a custom tune for less than a Unichip w/o a custom tune. Your stuck with the tune from Unichip unless you can find an authorized tuner or send the unit to the tuner.

Check out protegegarage for the SSAFC.
 
This Unichip is the most overrated piece of s*** every thread I have read and not one running right with no issues mind you with any kind of mods. I have thunder,gt28rs, 550cc, injen intake, port polished head 5 angle oversized valves and stiffer springs, vics and vtsc removed ported and polished intake manifold, ion front mount, vibrant exhaust. Dont get me wrong maybe for stock ok but any kind of mods and this thing sucks car has been to tuners thru out the country with no good results except another blown motor. These post as much as they are supposed to help do nothing except sell the product. PROVE ME WRONG I DARE YOU show me any with my mods that are running well with no issues except you JDM must be nice to have endless hours to tune yourself with this piece of s*** be honest you have been working on a ggod tune for months can you imagine a person having to pay for those hours of tuning you have done. I have about 4000 invested in tuning this with no results I think I would have another blown motor by now if I didnt blow tranny first thank god its off the road. And unichip customer service sucks too I know have the Q version. Thanks for letting me vent. Please someone prove me wrong if you can.
 
Well...I've had the unichip for the summer. Mild mods. The a/f ratio is freaking perfect (which is great...). BUT then unichip retards the timing sooo much that the dyno horsepower is LOWER THAN STOCK (even with my mods!)(hand) from 4500 rpms to 5300 rpms, then gushes the power back on and its great from 5300 to redline.

So the issue there is that you need to tune the timing to come on better in the mid range rpm (which sounds easy...) BUT the nearest unichip tuner is hundreds of miles away (and I'm in big city Minneapolis), and I was quoted $1000 for a days tuning session (which is ubsurd). But I will get this tuned, somewhere cheaper, eventually, for better mid range and that should be fine.

The stock unichip tune is really crazy: from stock msp to high boost unichip I had a max torque gain of 100ft/lbs!!! at 3800 rpms, then a nosedive to a LOSS of (-25ft/lbs) at 4800 rpms, thats on 3 different runs for both stock and unichip!!! Then back to a gain of 25 ft/lbs at 5500 rpms. So Unichip was "suposed to" eliminate the hesitation of the msp, that's not the case here.

Horsepower: up 50hp at 4000 rpms, down 25hp at 5000 rpms, and up again over 25 hp from 5300 to redline. this is all wheel/dyno hp and tq rating

MPG has improved a decent amount, I'm about 30mpg in regular driving, so thats good.

BOOST: uhhhh, well low boost is great, I'm going above 7psi and the car runs strong with no issues. High boost is not good for me, but not really bad either. I go to 14psi spike and lower to about 11. my car will hit fuel cut if the weather is any colder than 60 degrees so I can only use it on pretty warm days and not usually at night :(.

sooo. Bottom line, low boost is great, mpg good, stock tune is shaky at best and if you don't have huge expectations I'd imagine this unit is OK. I plan on sticking with this Unichip for now...to get a tune next year and hope to see the mid range FIXED! If I could do it all over again, I probably would go with a microtech full stand alone. They can be found used on the forums for an expensive price, but they can be tuned anywhere and have a much greater selection of tune. I'm also seriously concidering throwing out the ebc unit and sticking on a manual boost controler in a day or 2. I bought one months ago and have just kind of hoped that high boost would come around...
 
I have thunder,gt28rs, 550cc, injen intake, port polished head 5 angle oversized valves and stiffer springs, vics and vtsc removed ported and polished intake manifold, ion front mount, vibrant exhaust.
with all that money invested, I'd invest in a better unit. I bought my chip for $375 and with my mods its working ok for me. This is the era of the tuning computer...it's the best/most effective mod out there for ANY modern car. It only makes sense that if you're buying top shelf parts to buy the top shelf ECU/chip.
 
The stock tune does suck. It is no where tuned well enough and it was tuned for the original PCM calibration. If you have a flashed ECU you will need a remap for it to be optimal. Even on an original calibration PCM, it is still no where aggressive enough. I gained 30+ hp on stock boost tune on someone's MSP.
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I have kept my msp unflashed, and I have no question that a tune would EASILY get 30+ hp over the midrange.
 
with all that money invested, I'd invest in a better unit. I bought my chip for $375 and with my mods its working ok for me. This is the era of the tuning computer...it's the best/most effective mod out there for ANY modern car. It only makes sense that if you're buying top shelf parts to buy the top shelf ECU/chip.

I agree but at the time when I bought this our so called expert tuners thought this would be the best solution (the unichip that is) and so far they have been wrong allot of talk but no proven results this will be the last time I am a pig for anything will try to get car out to JDM in the fall and give it one more try after tranny is done. Or am I just prolonging the the solution (MICROTECH). Need some real good feedback on this. Chime in everyone. Be brutally honest I can take it.
 
Hey sam, can you pm me or post the bolt on list that the msp used in you sig to beat that sti.

(sorry for the thread jack)
 
Unichip causing cel crank angle?

I bought a UNICHIP from my freind out of the MSP he sold his sister. I installed it and it ran great for a day or two. (please note it ran fine for three years in my buddies 2003msp mines a 2003.5)

Then, driving through town my engine quit. I could not restart it. Knowing the only thing i had touched it the car recently was the UNI I proceeded to mess with it. ( I.E. jiggle wires Kick Floorpan ECT.) The damn thing fired right up but with a cel. I took it to my freinds and used his scanner.

I don't remember the code but it was for the crank angle sensor. It died again twice in his driveway and would not restart without resetting the computer. I pulled the UNICHIP.

The car ran fine for a week without the unichip. So, I reinstalled the uni. No problems and the car ran great. I have been running it for about two weeks with no problems. All of the sudden it wouldn't start and it left me stranded out of town....... (pissed) (fu)

When help arrived scanner and tools in hand (just taken mine out......)Guess what. You got it, crank angle again. I pulled the chip and bingo no problems.

I can't find anything wrong physically with the uni. But it seems it's directly related.(doh) I have opened a ticket with uni but have not heard back from them. After reading this thread it would seem I need to just call them or I will be dead in my grave before I hear back.

Anyways I do have questions that I'm hoping can be answered before I can call them on Monday.

1) How much do they charge for repairs? (I'm assuming it depends on the problem or a flat rate?)(what did they charge thoes of you who had repairs done?)

2) If a crank angle sensor IS GOING bad would it mess with the uni before the stock ecu noticed it? (decreased voltage output)

3) What kind of turn around time was there on the repair?


Suggestions or input would be appreciated! (homework)
 
Now I'm having trouble starting the car with the J&S and Unichip together!

When the Unichip is bypassed and the J&S installed it starts, with the Unichip installed without the J&S it starts fine. Put the two together and it goes crazy.

I will crank it, and it turns and turns, but won't start. When I stop it let's out a huge ass backfire. Then I crank it again and it starts.

It's really weird, and John at J&S said something about the Unichip having to learn that it's with the J&S, but I have put some miles on it, and I don't think the Unichip learns does it?

Also, when I had the J&S and the SSAFC it started fine.

Anyone got any ideas?
 
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