ALL Unichip Questions / Problems

My car runs pretty crappy when its REALLY COLD. Basically if its above 10 degrees I have no issue with stalling. Check your WGA if you haven't allready, then your EGR valve. I'm really doubtful that the unichip is the stalling problem.
 
Whats up guys I just got all my unichip stuff from SU and I was wondering what kind of gains can I realistically expect. The Unichip is supposed to be calibrated for SMIC upgrade, TB exhaust, CAI, and IM
 
I think around 15 WHP if you have the SMIC and TB exhaust on stock map without the boost controller at stock boost. Don't use the EBC whatever you do...its just crap.

the 15WHP is just a guess, but the unichip really helps with the hesitation so that alone is worth a little more.
 
Thanks alot bro...so your saying I shouldnt mess with the boost controller that comes with the unichip? If so will my MBC still work ok with this setup?
 
Thanks alot bro...so your saying I shouldnt mess with the boost controller that comes with the unichip? If so will my MBC still work ok with this setup?

it will work just fine, the problem with the unichip EBC is that it spikes when you set it to 10 psi. you'll get like 13-15 before it settles at 10 psi
 
The pricing to get the software needed, and to become a 'Licensed' Unichip tuner, which you HAVE to be to tune a Unichip, makes it unrealistic. You may as well buy a stand alone at that price.
 
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Megasquirt

Does anybody use a megasquirt setup?... I would really like some reviews on that.... sorry for the off topic but I searched the forum and did not find any thread... sorry if i missed it. Just thought one of you could guide me to it.
Thanks
 
Whats up guys...I have had my Unichip installed for just over a month and it has been working fine and pulled extremely hard...until recently. I got a CEL and reset the ecu and of course the CEL went away. However, when I drive the car now it seems to hit fuel cut easily under very little boost and drives like it did before the Unichip was installed. The AFR is reading in the 10-11.5 range under mild to no boost...whereas before it would hit 10-10.5 under full boost at about 4400 RPMs. For example, i was driving this morning and the clutch was in and the gauge was reading 10.5 at idle...I parked soon after and put car in neutral to cool down the AFR then went into the normal range (14.6 or so). Does anyone have any answers as to why my car is being a b****?
 
Does anyone know the difference between the 'Q' version of the unichip and the 'original' version? I WOULD REALLY LIKE ANY INFO ON THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO. THANK YOU!!!!

edit: thank you JDMSAM window vs DOS based.
 
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Ok guys I need a little help here. Yesterday I was in traffic and noticed that my idle was a little rough, after a little looking I noticed that my voltage was a full 1 volt lower than normal (~13.4v). I had CEL that I thought might be related (Random Misfire) but thought I was fixed.

This afternoon I decided to go looking for the potential cause and decided to clear the cel codes with the unichip switch, by accident I didn't flip the switch back and turned on the car and noticed that the voltage returned to normal then dropped again once I turned the unichip back on.

Has anyone seen anything related to this issue as I don't know what would cause the issue as I think this is the root of a lot of the little problems I've had lately
 
Lol

Still... problems with the unichump chip. Damn.., you would figured they would have figured out how to build one by now.(fuoops)

My first New car was a B.Y. MSP 03.5. Yeah they blew up my motor with there so called Plug & Play trash box.
 
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