AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

[cougar10agREDUX]

i think the tune not sticking is just part of running the split second the way it tricks the ECU, remember it's changing the voltage the MAF sensor sends to the ECU, which it uses that info along with the signal from the IAT to determine the injector duty cycle. so the ECU is never seeing the ACUAL air flow rate. if you have your cells for 10psi at say 5,000rpms at 9. whatever signal the sensor is sending at that load point the split second is going to deduct 10 from it. so air temp and density will definately change your tune. on a cold day you will get more air at that load point then on a hot day, but the split second will always deduct 10 from that signal.

i think the IAT is whats ******* us. if we could move it to the charge pipe we might be able to get a tune to hold more, or if we could change the way the ECU uses the IAT signal info.

also once i get a tune to hold for a while it runs LEANER during the day when its warmer than at night. which i find very odd. if it's not the IAT program in the ECU then it's the ECU map itself.

 

[DubbyDoo]

thats the sensor that goes in the intake pipe right? i just have it dangling in my engine bay always have

 

[magnumP5]

The location of the IAT sensor is something I mentioned a long time ago. I even started a thread a while back asking about relocating the IAT sensor but to place it after the turbo would require a different, threaded sensor. The ECU doesn't only use the MAF and primary O2 sensor, but other sensors such as the IAT and the coolant temperature. What I have noticed, is that after long drives, or shoter periods of harder driving the car seems to more easily go into closed loop and runs richer than normal (eg, 1/2-3/4 throttle at 0 psi will throw it into open loop). I believe when the ECU sees the IAT/coolant temperature sensors outputing high temperatures it starts dumping fuel to cool the engine.

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

thats the sensor that goes in the intake pipe right? i just have it dangling in my engine bay always have

yeah the two wire probe sensor.. you def want to put that in your intake pipe. the air in the intake is a lot different than the air in the engine bay, even with heat soak. especially if your running a cold air intake. i forget the size of the hole the grommet needs but if you have one of those stepped drill bits it's two easy to get it to fit. i replaced mine when i first bought the car cuz it was broken and just hanging there so i doubt mine is broken again. i also don't have a cold air on my set-up

 

[DubbyDoo]

yeah the two wire probe sensor.. you def want to put that in your intake pipe. the air in the intake is a lot different than the air in the engine bay, even with heat soak. especially if your running a cold air intake. i forget the size of the hole the grommet needs but if you have one of those stepped drill bits it's two easy to get it to fit. i replaced mine when i first bought the car cuz it was broken and just hanging there so i doubt mine is broken again. i also don't have a cold air on my set-up

although i didn't have it in my intake it was hanging by my air filter but i guess ill put it in. i still dont under stand why im running low 9's with my 440's on my fuel map

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

The location of the IAT sensor is something I mentioned a long time ago. I even started a thread a while back asking about relocating the IAT sensor but to place it after the turbo would require a different, threaded sensor. The ECU doesn't only use the MAF and primary O2 sensor, but other sensors such as the IAT and the coolant temperature. What I have noticed, is that after long drives, or shoter periods of harder driving the car seems to more easily go into closed loop and runs richer than normal (eg, 1/2-3/4 throttle at 0 psi will throw it into open loop). I believe when the ECU sees the IAT/coolant temperature sensors outputing high temperatures it starts dumping fuel to cool the engine.

yeah i have an idea in my head to use a threaded bung on the pipe, a large washer cut in half that'll close over the base of the IAT and a nut with a hole in the middle just big enough to fit over the connector, to securly fasten the IAT to the charge pipe. once i find the parts i'll mock it up and see how it works.

i have noticed this too. highway driving around 3500-4000rpms and higher it dumps a ton of fuel. when i was NA with just intake header and exhaust i saw AFR's start to drop to 10 around those RPMS, and that was stock befoe i started tuning the FTC. i believe this is because around there the EGTS climb to 1400F and the ecu dumps fuel to cool it. i ahve used the FTC to pull back some of the fuel, im running 440's so it got crazy. i tried to get it to hang around 12-13afr instead of 9-10.

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

although i didn't have it in my intake it was hanging by my air filter but i guess ill put it in. i still dont under stand why im running low 9's with my 440's on my fuel map

i'm running mid-high 8's on my t3/t4 @ 10psi with wrx 440's, perrin fuel rail, stock fuel pump lol. i need to change that.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

holy crap lol, I was thinking about getting bigger injectors or at least a bigger fuel pump.. but I can wait until I notice the need for it, running great so far lol.. I think that the stock ECU was just done poorly and they made a saftey net to dump in fuel whenever things were possibly too lean or hot.. to compensate for those really cheap and small rods they decided to keep in there for some reason...would be so much better off and well worth the money if they had fixed that first off, instead of working around it.. I don't think anyone would have minded paying $1-3k extra maybe if that, to get some forged internals in the stock car, (just a dream unfortunately)

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

holy crap lol, I was thinking about getting bigger injectors or at least a bigger fuel pump.. but I can wait until I notice the need for it, running great so far lol.. I think that the stock ECU was just done poorly and they made a saftey net to dump in fuel whenever things were possibly too lean or hot.. to compensate for those really cheap and small rods they decided to keep in there for some reason...would be so much better off and well worth the money if they had fixed that first off, instead of working around it.. I don't think anyone would have minded paying $1-3k extra maybe if that, to get some forged internals in the stock car, (just a dream unfortunately)

lol if you wanted a factory forged boosted motor you shoulda bought a VW. i like a challange. the looks on peoples faces when i stomp on it in 2nd and 3rd gear are money. they were def not expecting my little economy car to move that quick.

if your not maxing out your injectors id say theres no need right now. but if you got 440's the MSP ecu runs them suprisingly very well in vaccum. it's not hard to tune for them if youve got an AFC/FTC

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

ya i know, I'm just saying that forged internals would cut down on the cost for modding a lot in the long run, I wanna get a cheap vw turbo, prob. a jetta or passat (I had a v6 passat before this car) and just use that as my winter beater and have some fun with the turbo

but ya I don't really need the larger injectors or anything just yet, glad too because I'm broke lol

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

ya i know, I'm just saying that forged internals would cut down on the cost for modding a lot in the long run, I wanna get a cheap vw turbo, prob. a jetta or passat (I had a v6 passat before this car) and just use that as my winter beater and have some fun with the turbo

but ya I don't really need the larger injectors or anything just yet, glad too because I'm broke lol

haha yeah. i was thinkin about droppin the 1.8T into the protege. i got my wrx injectors with like 20k miles on them for about $120

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

ok I know this question should prob. go into the install thread, but it is dead and half this stuff in this thread ins't really related to the maps, so here it goes

lol but anyways last night I was trying to connect to the ss afc again, I had installed it the other weekend before OCC meet, and couldn't connect to it the way there.. so I assumed it was just being finicky and I just didn't want to deal with it..
-so last night I try to hook it up, I had a belkin 9port to usb cable.. worked for me before, and I had a 9-9 cable that I would use to extend the length because the belkin cable is like 6", I had used one before and got it to work last year with my other car, but the cable length was only an extra 6" or so... but anyways this new longer 9F-9M cable is the same thing, just around 2ft or so, tried connecting for more than 30min.. nothing, tried all of the settings.. so eventually I just connect it with just the belkin cable, and it connects in 2 sec.. I don't get it, does anyone know if there just isn't enough power going to the ECU and the ss afc to support the longer cable or is the belkin/ss afc just being a pain, I am going to try a usb extension cable too.. just want to see if anyone else has similar problems.
-and normally it wouldn't be an issue, but it sucks to have to have the labtop slammed right next to the glove box so that you don't disconnect the thing, and completely eliminates the possibility of me trying to do runs while datalogging (where I would just press start recording on the program and do a run with the laptop sitting in the seat.. worked well)

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

ok I know this question should prob. go into the install thread, but it is dead and half this stuff in this thread ins't really related to the maps, so here it goes

lol but anyways last night I was trying to connect to the ss afc again, I had installed it the other weekend before OCC meet, and couldn't connect to it the way there.. so I assumed it was just being finicky and I just didn't want to deal with it..
-so last night I try to hook it up, I had a belkin 9port to usb cable.. worked for me before, and I had a 9-9 cable that I would use to extend the length because the belkin cable is like 6", I had used one before and got it to work last year with my other car, but the cable length was only an extra 6" or so... but anyways this new longer 9F-9M cable is the same thing, just around 2ft or so, tried connecting for more than 30min.. nothing, tried all of the settings.. so eventually I just connect it with just the belkin cable, and it connects in 2 sec.. I don't get it, does anyone know if there just isn't enough power going to the ECU and the ss afc to support the longer cable or is the belkin/ss afc just being a pain, I am going to try a usb extension cable too.. just want to see if anyone else has similar problems.
-and normally it wouldn't be an issue, but it sucks to have to have the labtop slammed right next to the glove box so that you don't disconnect the thing, and completely eliminates the possibility of me trying to do runs while datalogging (where I would just press start recording on the program and do a run with the laptop sitting in the seat.. worked well)

did you get the right 9 pin serial cable? i know they have different ones. you need the straight through one. they have crossover ones as well

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

whats crossover? the one that I have was one that my dad grabbed from his work when they were moving and they had comp. stuff lying around... it's just a 9M going to 9F with no additional splits or anything.. just a single cable... and the shorter version of that, which is what I used last year worked, same thing just longer from what I can tell.. unless there is something different with the wiring or something i dono

 

[Alejo_NIN]

you need an RS232 cable...
let me know since i have a few laying around at work...

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

whats crossover? the one that I have was one that my dad grabbed from his work when they were moving and they had comp. stuff lying around... it's just a 9M going to 9F with no additional splits or anything.. just a single cable... and the shorter version of that, which is what I used last year worked, same thing just longer from what I can tell.. unless there is something different with the wiring or something i dono

you cant tell just from looking at it, if ur dad just grabbed one from work it could be the crossover. im like 98% sure they make crossover 9 pin serial cables, someone correct me.

ive been using the USB to db9 cables from radioshack. i have two of them. they work great no problems.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

you need an RS232 cable...
let me know since i have a few laying around at work...

what kinda cable is that?.. I have the belkin cable that works, I just need the 9pin extension part of it so I don't have to cram my laptop into my glove box lol... if you have some 9pin straight threw extension cables (or just cables actually that I can use as extension) let me know how much you would want for one that is like 2ft or something like that just pm me

you cant tell just from looking at it, if ur dad just grabbed one from work it could be the crossover. im like 98% sure they make crossover 9 pin serial cables, someone correct me.

ive been using the USB to db9 cables from radioshack. i have two of them. they work great no problems.

so the crossover 9pin doesn't look any different than the straight threw one huh? well in that case I guess I was just unlucky with that lol, what would a crossover do, do they just change the voltage or current or something or I'm probably way off.

this is what I have.. it just cost $45 at staples instead of $18(bang)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

 

[magnumP5]

Do you have the driver associated with the cable installed? You will need to install the driver and know the correct port for it to work.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

ya I have the driver and everything, and when I finally connected it just from the usb to the 9pin cable (just the belkin part w/o the 9M-9F cable used as an extension) it connected right away.. .I just didn't know that the 9pin crossover cable looks exactly like the 9pin straight through.. and I like I said before 6" of cable going from laptop to afc inside glove box kinda sucks because it has to be jammed like right on the glove box so I don't pull on the cable, I'm just glad that there is a good possibility that the extension cable I was using was probably the wrong one instead of there being another problem like the power or something

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

this is what i use. i have two of them. works great, self installs the drivers i believe too.: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3120513

you probably have this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2288284

what you need is this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3109713

BTW as you know all types of cables have a length limit before you need to start using boosters. a good USB-serial device should supply full power. but being powered through the USB port it might be lower. i don't know the voltage difference between serial and USB. if the power is lower in the converter box the legnth of the cable obviously has to be shorter... go down to radioshack and get another cable. they have pretty good return policies so if it doesn't work you can return it and a) buy a shorter DB9 cable and see if that works, or b) buy an adaper with a longer cable,