AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

[SpeedAdiction20]

another cool update they could do will be auto-tune.
you know, for V2 and higher...since we can datalog, why not take advantage of that....set a target AFR and bam, tuned!

lol, that would be sweet, would be best AFC ever!, would cut a lot of time down on tuning, but if anything those boxes that don't collapse would be nice to start out with

 

[Alejo_NIN]

it is just programming, really...don't know why SS hasn't done it yet....they probably know. i will email them asking them about it.

 

[Jaysanooch]

non found so far, at least nothing that anyone has cared to share with us, so pretty unlikely.. would be really cool if they came up with a small update for the software that would just fix that, would make a huge difference, or at least be much much more convenient and nice work work with.

Wow...and here I thought it was just me cause I'm not the most computer savy.

another cool update they could do will be auto-tune.
you know, for V2 and higher...since we can datalog, why not take advantage of that....set a target AFR and bam, tuned!

LOL! That would be too cool.

Speaking of data logging....my AEM wideband says 12 A/F for example and the datalog says 12.40 A/F. Are you guys going by the AFC or your wideband when tuning.

I'm going with the AFC.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

you just have to change your inputs... or your ratios... look at the AEM wb instructions and look at the top most output and the lowest, and do that to calculate the coefficients, the general one is like 10 and 2 or something like that, I would have to look at the program again, but if you want it dead on, just have it calc. it and I think it was decimal. I'll check what it is and I'll post it

 

[Alejo_NIN]

Wow...and here I thought it was just me cause I'm not the most computer savy.



LOL! That would be too cool.

Speaking of data logging....my AEM wideband says 12 A/F for example and the datalog says 12.40 A/F. Are you guys going by the AFC or your wideband when tuning.

I'm going with the AFC.

it should be from 0 to 5V and from 10.00 to 19.97 if i am not mistaken

 

[Alejo_NIN]

just sent the email to them, let's see what's the response.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

nice, I would be REALLY happy if they just fix that box problem haha, but ya I just realized that I had the AEM wideband instructions in my desk.. here are the settings
0v w/ 10afr to 4.99v w/19.98afr close but if you put this in the program to calculate the coefficients it will be dead on Jaysanooch . hope this helps

 

[Jaysanooch]

nice, I would be REALLY happy if they just fix that box problem haha, but ya I just realized that I had the AEM wideband instructions in my desk.. here are the settings
0v w/ 10afr to 4.99v w/19.98afr close but if you put this in the program to calculate the coefficients it will be dead on Jaysanooch . hope this helps

Thanks for checking but I'm even more confused lol! I have mine set to input A=10 and input B=2.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

lol, well I just calculated the coefficients (they have a little calculator to put what I had posted before in, and it gives you A=.. and B=.... but it turns out that even with those numbers i just had, it came out to exactly 10 and 2.. so yours should be dead on.. don't know what the differences might be, shouldn't be any different at all, but you should be fine, I just watch the wb when I am doing the run, and then go back and tune with the datalogging, and if I see it high when I am actually recording with the wb, I just know to stop and check it out, but I don't go too close to 12 afr, I like to keep it in safer #s

 

[Jaysanooch]

I noticed a difference between my wideband and AFC....in general my wideband tells I'm running high 11's A/F and the AFC says low to mid 12's A/F. So it's off for me and my sensor in fairly new (replaced it once already)..who knows?

I go by the graph mainly...I try to keep it stable but it's hard when your working with 500rpm cell intervals.

Thanks for clearing things up!

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

ya I go by the graph also, I wish it was around 250rpm at least but oh well, the wb gauge is just a visual when I am doing the "runs" to make sure I don't spike, then I go and look at the graph and play around with it later.

but it is strange that yours is off, you connected the AEM wb white wire to the orange datalogging one right?, I know there is a blue wb wire that is for something like a direct connect to a computer or something like that, I don't remember, but I just figured I would see if it was something random like that.. but i mean unless your really just staying at a constant speed and comparing the wb and what the computer says, than there is a chance that you could be looking at a # on the wb that corresponds to an rpm that is in between the datalogging, I dono, I really have to start tuning next week after I get everything back in, I could be more help then, it's been since last fall that I tuned anything, and that was only for a couple hours a couple times for 1 month, so I'm no expert to say the least, just was able to work with it well enough to get a good understanding I thought about it..
-I'll post anything new if I find it later on.. .along with my map once I get it all settled (yippy), (also just a side note, I would shoot for 11.5, especially since your wb and afc are a little different that gives you .5 to be safe, I personally think that 12 is on the boundary for zoom zoom boom, and just not worth the gains, but that is just me.. also, your connection between them might not be as solid as it could be, which would give you a very slight difference in voltage.. but then again who knows. good luck)

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

ok, so tomorrow I will be finish up installing the rest of some stuff, and before I ran my old MSP at 8psi, but I got a few extra things on my new one, and wanted to run it at, at least 9psi in the summer and than with the Greddy EBC I can switch it to around 7 in the winter, which I won't be driving it then anyways, but once the weather gets cold again basically.. so anyways I am trying to decide whether or not to do 9-9.5psi and assume it will spike, or go for 10psi and keep it from spiking..

I am curious as to how close 10psi is to being over the limit for stock block, I know a lot of people run 10psi all the time, but is 10psi coming close, or is it just running over 10psi really pushing it, I know that if I run 10psi I will most likely tune it to be at 11.5ish all around until around 9psi and/or 5.5-6k rpm where I will drop it to 11 afr.. does that sound reasonably safe?.. I want to run it at 10psi if I know I can tune it like that, and I will still be conservative, and run a pretty low risk of blowing the engine as apposed to 9psi (which I would tune simillary anyways..)

now I know that upping the boost in these cars, or even on stock has it's chances of blowing things up, but disregaurding the freak accidently and the bad rep. that these engines have (damn mazda and their toothpick rods).. does this seem like this would be conservative enough where I would not have to worry about blowing my engine with "normal" driving habits and the occasional spirited drive... I can't really explain it more than that, but I assume that most of you guys get the idea I am going for.. I just don't want to push the engine too much, but with so many people running 10psi and all the supporting mods I have, I think I would be relatively safe with a good tune. (hell I would even be willing to drop the afrs into the high 10s above 6k rpm and around 10psi, as long is it will help my engine, I very rarely even go to 6k rpm.. except for when tuning)

thanks for the help in advance, just want some feed back on this before I take the plunge

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

ive been running 10-10.6 psi on a T3/T4 using my greddy EBC for about a week now. i gotta do a datalog but i think it's spiking 10.6 and holding closer to 10. still gotta dick with the EBC. while i was tuning the EBC max i saw was 11.2 lol

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

ya, that is what is making me wanna go more towards 9.5psi and keep it from spiking as much as possible.. strange because my mbc didn't spike at all, at least not in normal weather, just when it was cold, and with a T3/T4 turbo no the less, that to me just seems even more "iffy" for stock rods (I couldn't see if you had forged internals, so sorry if I am wrong).. but hopefully in a week or more I can get a good map going, I am kinda surprised that more people haven't uploaded their maps onto this, my guess is that they just use stock supermap, and/or just leave it, or alter it a little and don't share the fun lol

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

ya, that is what is making me wanna go more towards 9.5psi and keep it from spiking as much as possible.. strange because my mbc didn't spike at all, at least not in normal weather, just when it was cold, and with a T3/T4 turbo no the less, that to me just seems even more "iffy" for stock rods (I couldn't see if you had forged internals, so sorry if I am wrong).. but hopefully in a week or more I can get a good map going, I am kinda surprised that more people haven't uploaded their maps onto this, my guess is that they just use stock supermap, and/or just leave it, or alter it a little and don't share the fun lol

yeah i got a stock block. i'm gonna leave the boost where it's at cuz its fun. lol 10.6 isn't a bad spike at all i dont think, i wouldnt even really call it a spike. lol. i would upload my map but im constantly changing it due to weather and temp, so it's not finished. it pisses me off. i might relocate my IAT see if that helps any. but ive been thinking of a way to mount it in the charge pipe and not have it blow out. ive got a design in my head i think will work, i just need to source the parts

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

oo, ya I just thought because of the larger turbo that even with stock turbo that 10psi+ is starting to push it for stock block, and since the bigger turbo=more air, just thought it would be like a stock turbo at 11-12psi.. or something like that.. but I don't really know, haven't looked into that too much.. also about the IAT moving it, wouldn't that throw your stock ECU numbers off?.. i guess you could just tune over that now that I think about it.. hmm guess that would work actually lol.. it's also plastic, at least the stock one.. so hopefully those temps aren't too high

 

[Alejo_NIN]

i run 11 and i spikes to 11.2
all the time....110K miles. been storng (knocks on wood) you just gotta know how to drive

ok, so tomorrow I will be finish up installing the rest of some stuff, and before I ran my old MSP at 8psi, but I got a few extra things on my new one, and wanted to run it at, at least 9psi in the summer and than with the Greddy EBC I can switch it to around 7 in the winter, which I won't be driving it then anyways, but once the weather gets cold again basically.. so anyways I am trying to decide whether or not to do 9-9.5psi and assume it will spike, or go for 10psi and keep it from spiking..

I am curious as to how close 10psi is to being over the limit for stock block, I know a lot of people run 10psi all the time, but is 10psi coming close, or is it just running over 10psi really pushing it, I know that if I run 10psi I will most likely tune it to be at 11.5ish all around until around 9psi and/or 5.5-6k rpm where I will drop it to 11 afr.. does that sound reasonably safe?.. I want to run it at 10psi if I know I can tune it like that, and I will still be conservative, and run a pretty low risk of blowing the engine as apposed to 9psi (which I would tune simillary anyways..)

now I know that upping the boost in these cars, or even on stock has it's chances of blowing things up, but disregaurding the freak accidently and the bad rep. that these engines have (damn mazda and their toothpick rods).. does this seem like this would be conservative enough where I would not have to worry about blowing my engine with "normal" driving habits and the occasional spirited drive... I can't really explain it more than that, but I assume that most of you guys get the idea I am going for.. I just don't want to push the engine too much, but with so many people running 10psi and all the supporting mods I have, I think I would be relatively safe with a good tune. (hell I would even be willing to drop the afrs into the high 10s above 6k rpm and around 10psi, as long is it will help my engine, I very rarely even go to 6k rpm.. except for when tuning)

thanks for the help in advance, just want some feed back on this before I take the plunge

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

i run 11 and i spikes to 11.2
all the time....110K miles. been storng (knocks on wood) you just gotta know how to drive

by knowing how to drive you mean, knowing how to not try to kill the car, and driving "smart" so that in general it takes better care of the engine and parts right?

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

oo, ya I just thought because of the larger turbo that even with stock turbo that 10psi+ is starting to push it for stock block, and since the bigger turbo=more air, just thought it would be like a stock turbo at 11-12psi.. or something like that.. but I don't really know, haven't looked into that too much.. also about the IAT moving it, wouldn't that throw your stock ECU numbers off?.. i guess you could just tune over that now that I think about it.. hmm guess that would work actually lol.. it's also plastic, at least the stock one.. so hopefully those temps aren't too high

yeah the larger turbo does flow more air, but 10 PSI is still 10 PSI no matter how much air there is. only problem would be how much power the stock rods can handle. even if your running 10psi, if your flowing a ton of air and making more power than the stock rods can handle you'll blow it too. but thats really not possible.

 

[magnumP5]

yeah the larger turbo does flow more air, but 10 PSI is still 10 PSI no matter how much air there is. only problem would be how much power the stock rods can handle. even if your running 10psi, if your flowing a ton of air and making more power than the stock rods can handle you'll blow it too. but thats really not possible.

Yes, 10 psi is 10 psi but engines make power based on flow rate, not pressure. It requires X lb/sec of air for our 2.0L engines to make Y power - the pressure required is based off the size and type of turbocharger. 10 psi on a T3/T4 is flows significantly more air than the stock GT2554R turbo on the MSPs and therefore makes more power at the same pressure. If you are boosting 10+ psi on a stock block with a T3/T4 you are living on borrowed time; unless of course you can control timing in which case you have a little more room to play.

There are other ways around this as well. I will soon be running 50/50 water/methanol injection to cool the combustion process so I am going to try for 12 psi. My only hope is that the injectors can keep up.