AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

[SpeedAdiction20]

ya that is what I meant to say, just didn't really say it because I knew you guys knew what I was talking about, and I was too lazy to say it myself (about the 10psi on a bigger turbo having more airflow/power and not "more psi" than stock turbo)....

so magnium, what is your opinion for running 10psi, (I was going to ask this first in the daily drivers mod thread, but this seemed more appropriate) do you think that a tune at higher rpms into the lower 11s from 9-10psi around 6k rpm would be conservative enough, and "safe" enough for stock block, without risk of having a good chance to blow the engine sooner rather than later, and I know that there are a lot of factors in play, and the nature of stock block.. but aside from all of that.... I think that terbow (sp?) wouldn't have stated that 10psi is a "good" amount of boost with supporting mods and good tune if there was a good chance that the engine would blow... (again, putting all the variables aside)

to put it generally, my driving habits are like I said before, occasional spirited drives, and I don't want to all of a sudden hear my engine blow after I had a conservative tune and I was not beating on the car, and taking all the necessary precautions.. at least not for another 50k miles if I can help it. (its at 55k now, and in great condition)

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

Yes, 10 psi is 10 psi but engines make power based on flow rate, not pressure. It requires X lb/sec of air for our 2.0L engines to make Y power - the pressure required is based off the size and type of turbocharger. 10 psi on a T3/T4 is flows significantly more air than the stock GT2554R turbo on the MSPs and therefore makes more power at the same pressure. If you are boosting 10+ psi on a stock block with a T3/T4 you are living on borrowed time; unless of course you can control timing in which case you have a little more room to play.

There are other ways around this as well. I will soon be running 50/50 water/methanol injection to cool the combustion process so I am going to try for 12 psi. My only hope is that the injectors can keep up.

thats what i was saying. the engine is still seeing 10psi of pressure. every engine has a maximum pressure limit, as well as maximum power limit. 10psi is what everyone says is the maximum "safe" pressure limit. i just need to know how much power im making. i forget how much power the stock block can take, if i'm under that i should be good... I'm running an FTC, i also have a used J&S i need to get a knock sensor for and wiring instructions and install it. plus i'm trying to slowing push the engine to it's limits. i can afford to buy a forged engine right now, i'd just rather build up some more cash first.

 

[magnumP5]

thats what i was saying. the engine is still seeing 10psi of pressure. every engine has a maximum pressure limit, as well as maximum power limit. 10psi is what everyone says is the maximum "safe" pressure limit. i just need to know how much power im making. i forget how much power the stock block can take, if i'm under that i should be good... I'm running an FTC, i also have a used J&S i need to get a knock sensor for and wiring instructions and install it. plus i'm trying to slowing push the engine to it's limits. i can afford to buy a forged engine right now, i'd just rather build up some more cash first.

The pressure is not the problem here. It also isn't necessarily a function of how much power the stock block can take. It all has to do with how much load is on the engine - the tune will make or break everything. 505zoom made 277 whp with a GT28RS set at like 12 psi on a stock block with the MPi tuner - how's that for a tune? When everyone says "10 psi" they are referring to the stock GT2554R turbo of the MSP. This DOES NOT apply for anything larger. If you can control your air/fuel ratios then you may have a little mroe room but you're still living on borrowed time. The same with timing.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

thats what i was saying. the engine is still seeing 10psi of pressure. every engine has a maximum pressure limit, as well as maximum power limit. 10psi is what everyone says is the maximum "safe" pressure limit. i just need to know how much power im making. i forget how much power the stock block can take, if i'm under that i should be good... I'm running an FTC, i also have a used J&S i need to get a knock sensor for and wiring instructions and install it. plus i'm trying to slowing push the engine to it's limits. i can afford to buy a forged engine right now, i'd just rather build up some more cash first.

that brings up another issue actually, my brother just got a car that had about $15k worth of mods on it, w/o manual labor included (he was a mechanic, so he did it himself) but anyways the car is well built, but the idiot put the (I believe T3/T4 turbo, even though the mechanic that sold the car, (2nd owner, after all work was done) said that it was a k4 turbo.. which I don't think exists, at least not that I know of), but anyways he put that at 24psi, with all the supporting mods.. buttt forged rods and pistons, he has forged cams/and that other cam gear, I can't remember what it is called, but the one at the bottom moving the rods.. so naturally the 2nd owner that bought it blew a hole in the engine racing a wrx.. or embarrassing it rather lol.... so I was a little worried that with all the upgrades the stock block that is going back into the car (finical issues, he can really only afford buying the car, and having my other car's stock block put in, and switching everything over, ie. forged cams/head, pulleys ect..).. that it might be too much for the car, even though it will be turned down to 7-8psi.. and he has unichip, which I am not very crazy about, don't like the idea of not personally tuning the car, but I can get that done somewhere I guess...

so in theory, his engine should be able to hold no problem, at that low psi (just a side note, the guy had dynoed the car when at 24psi at 400whp, I'm really really surprised that he didn't blow it sooner)

 

[slo03.5msp]

I'm running a 16lb spike holdin14lbs. Stock internals. It's all in the tune!

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

I'm running a 16lb spike holdin14lbs. Stock internals. It's all in the tune!

haha nice, for how long? on the stock turbo im guessing? man i gotta head to the dyno and see what i can do.

 

[mp3-79bronco]

when i get mine tuned im gonna bump it up to 7.5 psi

 

[slo03.5msp]

haha nice, for how long? on the stock turbo im guessing? man i gotta head to the dyno and see what i can do.

For the last 5 years. Yes it's the stock turbo.

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

For the last 5 years. Yes it's the stock turbo.

thats awesome

 

[protegerider]

when i get mine tuned im gonna bump it up to 7.5 psi

lol go to 10 psi man. im at 7~7.5 psi without tune. when i get my ssftc v3 in i will go to 10 psi.

 

[Alejo_NIN]

i am at 11 wiht the super map

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

anyone else have their tune change a lot? im getting to the point where im giving up on constantly changing my maps.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

you mean you tune it, and then a little while later you have to tune it again?.... if so, I can't say I have because when I finally started tuning my car, I did so for about a month than my wga went, so I couldn't do a full run for datalogging and then sadly, shortly after I crashed my car, .. and my new car, I just got the afc in about a week ago, and I can't drive it anyways until.. end of june i think it is.... but I did notice that my tune was way off after about 2 weeks of first adjusting it slightly from the supermap, but I figured that was because my wga was failing and the changing temps getting a lot colder

I would say (and what I was planning on doing) is to make a summer map and make it general enough that you don't have to change it and that it won't go above the 12 afr or whatever, and then if you drive it in the winter, a winter map.. and also maybe a spring and fall map.. and record the temp. in the info section of the customer that way you can just switch between those when you need to
- oh and also make sure you drive the car for a little while to get it nice and warmed up before you actually start doing the tunes, i would assume that is some what obvious but it will cut down on variability on the maps from when you first start till after some runs

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

you mean you tune it, and then a little while later you have to tune it again?.... if so, I can't say I have because when I finally started tuning my car, I did so for about a month than my wga went, so I couldn't do a full run for datalogging and then sadly, shortly after I crashed my car, .. and my new car, I just got the afc in about a week ago, and I can't drive it anyways until.. end of june i think it is.... but I did notice that my tune was way off after about 2 weeks of first adjusting it slightly from the supermap, but I figured that was because my wga was failing and the changing temps getting a lot colder

I would say (and what I was planning on doing) is to make a summer map and make it general enough that you don't have to change it and that it won't go above the 12 afr or whatever, and then if you drive it in the winter, a winter map.. and also maybe a spring and fall map.. and record the temp. in the info section of the customer that way you can just switch between those when you need to
- oh and also make sure you drive the car for a little while to get it nice and warmed up before you actually start doing the tunes, i would assume that is some what obvious but it will cut down on variability on the maps from when you first start till after some runs

yesterday i got borded and decided to beat on my car with my camera. in one video you can see my afr's are in the 10's, in another it's high 11's mostly low 12's. . i seriously think it has something to do with the IAT. i wanna move it after the turbo

or maybe my WBO2 controller is ****** up. it's always given me trouble

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

ya might be the problem, although I can't think of why it would change temps so drastically, can't see in your sig. but do you have a CAI or SRI? if it's an SRI I take my statement back, I can see how it would change a lot, but CAI should be somewhat consistent

 

[cougar10agREDUX]

ya might be the problem, although I can't think of why it would change temps so drastically, can't see in your sig. but do you have a CAI or SRI? if it's an SRI I take my statement back, I can see how it would change a lot, but CAI should be somewhat consistent

yeah the intake would be considered an SRI. i need to change that. **** i wish i just waited a few more months, i woulda seen the CPE kit and got that.

i can understand minimal AFR changes, but going from low 10's to low 12's in like 20 minutes? wtf?

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

ya that's weird not sure what that would be, and if it is the IAT than I guess changes in the engine bay temp would throw that off a good deal possibly.. but I dono, maybe heat off your turbo after you run could be enough?

 

[DubbyDoo]

ok so I need the gt28 and 440 gurus to chime in on this. so I loaded a gt28 and 440 map numbers on the cells were low 8's and high 7's. I tried to run on that map but it had to much fuel. so I changed it got a good tune on it..well I swapped the heads on the engine ended up retuning it.. now im running the super stock map with more fuel added in... doesnt seem right because before I was low 8's now im high 9's and it seems like I need to add more fuel cause its leaning out in the top end

 

[DubbyDoo]

im also having a problem of tuning it one night and having it run great then the next day its runs like s***

 

[DubbyDoo]

just tried changing the map around and it didnt even seem like it did anything? if the afc its self was bad i would assume the car wouldnt run. so at this point im wondering what the deal it bad sensor somewhere?