AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

from what i have read you have to buy some sort of chip or something to do so, and i think its only "legal" on track cars but from what i understood there is no real easy fix to way to take it out as far as i know, and i think the main problem with that is because there are still arguments about what actually regulates the speed in the cars... ill just let someone else post on this topic who knows more about it
 
wat do you have t do to take the speed limiter away?

only thing so far that you can do is get a full standalone engine management system to get rid of it. There might be some weird thing out there that i haven't seen yet but the only way that i have seen done on the protege is with a standalone.
 
perhaps someone can help a SS AFC newb. is there a good map for my mods out there already? im pretty stock and plan on running 8PSI peak and 7 steady. i got my SS AFC last week and will be installing it soon but i just want to know what map i should run starting off. if i cant find a map to fit my mods im going to take it to a shop and have it tuned but in the mean time what map should i run to be safe? i really dont know s*** about this and ive been skimming through this thread but damn its long so can someone help me?

EDIT:i bought my SS AFC from Protege garage about a month ago, so it it the V2? is there a way to tell just from looking at it?
 
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perhaps someone can help a SS AFC newb. is there a good map for my mods out there already? im pretty stock and plan on running 8PSI peak and 7 steady. i got my SS AFC last week and will be installing it soon but i just want to know what map i should run starting off. if i cant find a map to fit my mods im going to take it to a shop and have it tuned but in the mean time what map should i run to be safe? i really dont know s*** about this and ive been skimming through this thread but damn its long so can someone help me?

EDIT:i bought my SS AFC from Protege garage about a month ago, so it it the V2? is there a way to tell just from looking at it?

if you bought it new from him then ya its V2, v1 doesnt get sold anymore unless its used.

But for the maps you should be fine running the map that on it from splitsecond, they have a map on there designed for the MSP. Its safe to use but def. could be tuned to more fit your car. I went to a dyno and tried a bunch out and just chose the best on that way and then tweaked it a lil
 
ya i got it new so its a V2. so running the stock map will be fine even if i up the boost a pound or two? i may run 8PSI steady and 9 peak if it runs alright
 
ya i got it new so its a V2. so running the stock map will be fine even if i up the boost a pound or two? i may run 8PSI steady and 9 peak if it runs alright

ya i was runing the stock map with hiboost fmic, 3" exhaust w/ cat delete, intake, GT28RS@10psi and more

you will be fine if you dont feel like messing with changing the maps until your ready too. Just make sure you mess with it before you head to the dyno to get familiar with the program
 
just to add what has already been said mostly.. stock map is diffidently "safe" in terms of it not being in danger of going too lean, I think it is at the very least a much much better map than without the SS AFC supermap, you will prob. find out that it is still pretty rich, and tuning will really just free up some more hp by leaning the #s out... i suggest you read the U-Tune article that is on the SS website, as well as the packet that comes with the AFC on the program, helps a lot.. I had linked it a couple pages back if you can't find it yourself.
 
ok i will take a look at that, i want to get into tuning it but probibly wont have the time or money till next summer so i see how she runs on the stock map, hopefully i have it installed next week! any tips on the install? seems pretty strait forward.
 
ok i will take a look at that, i want to get into tuning it but probibly wont have the time or money till next summer so i see how she runs on the stock map, hopefully i have it installed next week! any tips on the install? seems pretty strait forward.

solder everything and get heat wrap. You def. do not want to half ass this. Triple check your connections and if you can get a laptop hook it up and make sure you can get a connection to the SSAFC before finish up and bolt down the ECU. Just so you dont have to rip it all out again. But take your time and you should be good.
 
Guys Ive recently noticed that under WOT Im running 9.5 and --- on my wideband! How bad is that? I havent tuned the AFC because I know sqwat about tunning maps and what not. It use to run around 10.5-11 Any ideas?
 
Datalog it, on the labtop, and see where you start to run really rich and then find those cells that it is using and just change that general group of cells, starting with just -.1 and see how that works... after like an hour of doing this you should have everything much better... also when you change it, make sure you copy your map now, and use the copied map to change and label it with a general temp outside, and month, so that you know it is prob. colder and all that for a good reference, and when it gets warmer again, switch back to your other stock map, and tune again..

Edit: also DSMvsMSP, if you have a wideband, and you'll be getting the v2 SS AFC, than you shouldn't have to spend any more money tuning, maybe a couple bucks for the connector cable (which make sure you get the right one) but other than that, its pretty much just reading everything, taking the car out, make a good base set of log recordings runs in 3rd gear w/afr, and then just adjust the common "problem" areas you see, slightly i will add, and then make a few more runs with the edited map.. and see what you have...
 
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so how tough is that? Like I said I know sqwat about this. I need the cable thats a no brainer. I lost the software, so I need that.
 
hmm, should be able to download it from somewhere, if i get some time, and if no one else has done it yet, ill try to upload it into here, just make sure you read the packet it comes with, for the software which hopefully you have, and just read over the U-Tune part in the SS website like i said before... and just take it slow, when i first started I did like 5 runs and really looked at the areas that were rich in all 5 recordings and then found which cell #s they were using (which btw it is a little funky on the fuel map like when your looking at 3.7k rpm at say.. 3-3.4psi it will be the cell blocks 4k rpm and 3.5psi, so once you past the point of the column or row in rpm or psi, your onto the next highest cell value.. you will notice what im talking about when you watch it).. but just match up the cell # it says in the reccordings and the rpm and psi and just write down when the rich part starts, and when it ends (in all 5 or so recordings) try to make sure you use the problem areas that are consistent. once you go over it once throughout the rpm and psi range and change a couple numbers.. just make another 3-4 recordings and "study" it..

The best thing you can do, is just make the first "base set" of recordings with the stock map, and just see how the program works.. once you get a better understanding then you can start to change the map (making sure you use a copy of your map.. i have like 2 copies of stock map. to leave unchanged).. just take it slow, i did my first couple runs to see what the base map did, and then just went home to look at it, so i didn't spend so much time on the road until i understood it better.. next time it was much easier..
-at first, i thought it looked pretty hard and way to much to do, but just go in small steps, really look at what is going on, and just do trial and error, make very small changes, better to make too little of a change than to much of one.. and keep the #s safe ranged..
 
Ok, Do you mind if I PM you if Im having trouble. This way it will keep this thread junk free? Im going to try and find a cable this weekend. You have a partnumber for one?
 
Guys Ive recently noticed that under WOT Im running 9.5 and --- on my wideband! How bad is that? I havent tuned the AFC because I know sqwat about tunning maps and what not. It use to run around 10.5-11 Any ideas?
If you have an AEM wideband and it's reading "---" then that is very bad, ie AFRs 18+:1. If you're seeing that while in boost you need to let off immediately!
 
If you have an AEM wideband and it's reading "---" then that is very bad, ie AFRs 18+:1. If you're seeing that while in boost you need to let off immediately!

+1



Guys Ive recently noticed that under WOT Im running 9.5 and --- on my wideband! How bad is that? I havent tuned the AFC because I know sqwat about tunning maps and what not. It use to run around 10.5-11 Any ideas?

ya you going to zoom zoom boom like me lol. if you do tune and you on a stock block i would recommend not going leaner then 11 just to be safe.

if you boost was 9.5 when you used to be at 10.5-11 you might have a vac leak. just something i can think of off the top of my head.
 
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If you have an AEM wideband and it's reading "---" then that is very bad, ie AFRs 18+:1. If you're seeing that while in boost you need to let off immediately!

Well, that would depend if the LED light is on the bottom right or the bottom left corner. Right (Red)=Lean (Above 17:1 I believe), Left (Green)=Rich (below 10:1 i believe)

BTW, you guys are awesome! Great group of people we have in this thread(friday)
 
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Well, that would depend if the red light is on the bottom right or the bottom left corner. Right=Lean (Above 17:1 I believe), Left=Rich (below 10:1 i believe)

BTW, you guys are awesome! Great group of people we have in this thread(friday)
LOL, maybe it's a new thing but my AEM will just read "10" for 10:1 and lower and "---" for anything 18:1 and higher (I believe). I don't really know how high the AEM reads up to (and I don't really want to find out) but I know the voltage range is 0-4.99V which equates to 10-19.98:1.
 
^^ I second that(drinks)... but ya i didn't even notice the "---" part for your reading lol, was thinking it as just a spacer for words lol, but ya thats really lean, or vacuum like when you let off gas and cruise in gear.

and speed1016, go ahead and pm me for whatever you want, someone had asked me before about the vibrant exhaust install, and i gave him step by step, which reminds me that that said I should make that all nice and put that as a How To: which once I get can some time and pics I'll be sure to do. I was the same way before, as far as not wanting to touch the tuning because i didn't wanna blow the car up, but after a lil while it gets easier and now its just really cool what you can do with it.. and i didn't have to spend a couple hundred $$ either... once I get all my stuff in and IF I resurrect my car, than I will get it dynoed/tuned after my original tune, which the idea is to have it mostly tuned and just to adjust it slightly on the dyno and saves you time/money.

Also, almost forgot, but ya if your really rich, or even lean i guess for that matter, i know that when i had a vac. leak because my WGA was shot, my boost numbers were all over the place, was really lean sometimes and then really rich others.. so check everything i guess, if your not boosting all the way, look at the wga and blow into the line to test it first.. good place to start if everything else looks good.

EDIT: bah, you beat me magnum lol .. (see comment above)i second what CustomMSP was saying about having a good group
 
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LOL, maybe it's a new thing but my AEM will just read "10" for 10:1 and lower and "---" for anything 18:1 and higher (I believe). I don't really know how high the AEM reads up to (and I don't really want to find out) but I know the voltage range is 0-4.99V which equates to 10-19.98:1.

ya thats true, the "---" is only when its lean actually, or just like i said, cruising in vacuum in gear
 
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