AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

[adirondakkid]

I cant figure out how to zip files to upload it for you guys...but when I compare every setting between the one I have stock on my AFC and the SuperStock map they are identical...unless there is something Im missing....

Here's a breakdown of my settings:
Under Options:
-System Settings:
--Vacuum/pressure....Program signal calibrator
-Engine Settings:
--4 cylinder.....4 stroke
-Output Settings:
--PWM Mode: Pressure 0 to 30psi/3 vdc fs
--Output A Mode: Aux fuel pump with abortive start time
--Output B Mode: Over RPM and Pressure (this was originally over pressure, read on the how-to elsewhere on this site that either was OK)
--Output C mode: Inj A and B over /latched
--Over RPM: 6000
--Over Pressure: -1 (originally set to 1.1, changed per what I read elsewhere)
--Over INJ: 90%
--Fuel pump start pressure psi: -1
--Fuel pump run time: 3
--Fuel pump start up time: 120
-Aux Input Settings:
--Aux input A: Coefficient a - 9, coefficient b - 1.4 (used calculator to obtain these values...using NGK Powerdex Wideband O2, 0-5V auxillary output)

Fuel Maps A & B - identical to SuperMapStock

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

Change your Output B to" Over RPM OR Pressure, hmm other than that your all good, only other thing i can think of when your uploading your maps, is to maybe reset your car and clear it like by the same way you would clear your CEL codes with disconnecting the neg. battery and letting it sit for 10min or so, and pump breaks 3 or so times.. then try uploading your map to the ecu, and after its done uploading give it a min. or so because i heard that if you start your car right after you upload the map it can throw CELs or just run funny.. but ya other than that, there isn't much else i can think of other than make sure your connections are good, i would make sure you tape the connections up where you can, encase your area near your ecu is a little damp like a lot of others (common small leak prob.) and making sure all the wires are clean.. beyond that I would try calling Split Second and seeing what they have to say.. they can help out with the program and stuff, not so much I've heard with any car issues, since they are engineers or something like that from what i hear.. but still good help.

 

[adirondakkid]

maybe (hopefully) thats my issue is just starting the car right after uploading a map...I'm guilty of that. I uploaded the maps & every time I would immediately start the car....so if I just wait about 10 minutes you think maybe all this would go away? that would be so sweet! I mean, I was anal about making sure the wires were clean, butt connectors were tight, taped all my connections, used insulated quick connectors in the event I needed to revert back to stock configuration, etc.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

ya i know what you mean about the connectors things.. i was the same way... and for the restarting.. try to clear the ecu with the way i said first.. and then once you reset it, then just reload the map and shouldn't have to wait more than like 3-5min or so I'd say and thats giving some long time, I usually just wait like 2 min usually but hopefully that will help out your problem, I know that with these cars if you add something to it (mods) some cars don't take them as well as others, so I reset my ecu every time I add something, so it relearns the mod that put in... Gl

 

[adirondakkid]

thanks! Ill try that first..then if it fails Ill start with the solder

 

[808MP5]

hmmm... i noticed with the supermap that my afr doesn't start going rich until i hit around 2psi of boost... is this normal? I guess it must be, because after viewing the recordings from the supermapedit2 file the afr doesn't go rich until around 2psi...

idk i just figured it should go between 11.5 and 12.5 as soon as you start to go into the +psi region.

i'll try the supermapedit2 tomorrow... guess it's better than the map i made for the p5 ecu.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

Cool .. just so you know, that tune was really the first set of adjustments that I had made after a handful of runs for the first time, I had adjusted the map afterwords because it was still pretty rich in parts, but I was going to do that later, and unfortunately I still need to get my new wga put in before i can try my newer map (since the wga went bad and my afr's went nuts kinda i just went back to the stock supermap for now) but my aim was to try to get the afr's down a little richer quicker so that the car can pick up right off the bat kinda once its in any psi.. so once i get things fixed and worked out ill post it and let ya know. The tune for supermapstockedit2 is just an overall a little bit leaner than stock, not much changes at all, but gl with it..

also while im posting i wanna ask this; with my wga screwed right now, I have noticed that had gotten a little worse and I have been watching the psi closely and i stay under 5psi generally, but the weird thing is that unless i really push the gas peddle all or almost all the way down, it seems to get stuck around 0-2psi and really doesn't move much, and I think i can even hear the small leak with the windows down, is that my wga leaking or should i start looking somewhere else.. I have the wga nipple and the nipple from the intake mani capped so they are tight, and it holds vacuum fine, and i can even feel a good amount of loss in power mainly because there isn't really any turbo boost.. any suggestions.. and will or should this be fixed when i replace my wga?

 

[adirondakkid]

Update - well I had to wait until this weekend to redo my wiring. I soldered all connections very securely and covered them all with shrinkwrap between AFC & ECU. I then reset my ECU by pumping brakes several times while Neg. terminal was disconnected. Then I reconnected neg battery terminal, turned key to ON position, connected my laptop to AFC, and opened new customer so I would not overwrite any maps I have downloaded from here. After opening new customer, I read data from ECU, checked that all settings were correct as mentioned in this thread preceding, and changed any settings that were incorrect. I then wrote data back to ECU, disconnected software from ECU, and disconnected neg battery terminal....pumped brakes a couple times to reset ECU..then reconnected battery again. Reconnected software to AFC & ECU, opened same new customer as before, and read data from ECU again to ensure that nothing changed. All looked good, so I took the prescribed pill and waited a few minutes before turning her over....and the same thing again! Rough idle, A/F ratios at 9.0, and heavy smell of gas....why is my AFC dumping extra gas if it shouldn't be doing anything until it sees boost? Is there a possibility that I somehow got the one bad AFC unit that has some faulty wiring?

sorry for long post - just wanted to put everything out there that I did chronologically

 

[magnumP5]

^^^ Hate to say it but either something still isn't correct in the settings or you've got other problems. The AFC should not be doing anything to the car at idle.

 

[adirondakkid]

agree with you there.....but right now I'm ruling out anything wrong with the car because if there were something faulty there it should show up when the car is wired normally too, right?

 

[magnumP5]

So if you completely remove the AFC everything is normal?

 

[adirondakkid]

yeah....the only thing I leave connected is the vacuum line and I know I don't have a vacuum leak since my gauge reads the same at vacuum (21 in Hg at idle, about 25 in Hg when letting off the throttle at highway speeds)

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

hmm, almost no chance this is the case but just for kicks you can check it out, just to check it off the list, I know that when my O2 sensor (primary one) went bad the check engine light didn't come on for a lil while, and this was before i had the afc in and the idle wasn't too bad, but anyways with me, the afc installed or not showed problems over time, but maybe your O2 sensor isn't as damaged (if this is possibly the case) but i dono, maybe having the afc in increases the symptoms of the signals from the O2 sensor.. ? lol i really doubt this is the case but i guess taking your O2 sensor out and just checking it out (i know that when i shook mine i could hear rattling, because i had really fried it lol) but just a random thought, and ya.. other than that i think there may be a possibility that you got a weird unit, btw, what is the actual #s on the AFC casing.. like the labels and all the #s and stuff

 

[magnumP5]

Take a screenshot of your AFC settings. I'm still not completely convinced there's something wrong with your unit.

 

[adirondakkid]

the back of the unit has this:
PSC1-020
W/DAQ
under barcode is 10200

I recently replaced my top O2 sensor as I did get a CEL, and the readout was bad sensors so I replaced it...I'd say that was about a year ago. I drive about 100+ miles round trip daily & would think if it went bad I'd get another one or feel it in the driveability.

I'll take a screenshot of my settings & post them up as soon as my wife gives me back the other laptop that has my R4 controller on it.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

thats what i was trying to say before, he did have the settings pretty much all set up, but also make sure that when you open a new client that your opening it and making sure the settings are the same because they change usually when you open a new client, and even when i read my map off the AFC, the map had been cleared somehow at some point so it was all 10s and stuff, so i had to redo the settings, but anyways, when your doing this, you should really just read the map off onto a new client just once, and then after that, just open up one of the dled maps from here, and open that client up and just write right onto that and then just wait a min after that before starting the car up.. don't need to reset the ecu after you load the map, just give it a min or so before you actually start it (when you install and load the map for the first time, then i suggest resetting the ecu, but after its in you should be ok, but then again your situation is a little weird) .. oh but ya, got a little off track, but his settings everything seemed ok, just that he had it set to over pressure AND rpm which i hope he changed, but even then that shouldn't have affected the idling.

and magnumP5 one thing about screen shots, i don't know how to do those either, i know there is a setting in some games where i can take them by pressing "Prnt Scrn" but when i do it now it doesn't do anything and i don't know how to show the pic either, but also for adirondakid, for compressing a file and your map, just go to 7-zip i think and google it and there should be a free program, just download that, its a free zip program and when you have that installed, just right click on your map file in the folder and just go to "add to archives" and that will zip it, then just upload that compressed file..

hmm,, OO i also just thought that someone mentioned a while ago that the fact that the programing is funky anyways sometimes, not the unit.. so did you try to reinstall your SS program?.. worth a shot, and just reinstall it from the disk and make sure no programs are running and all that junk.. worth a shot

Edit: i guess i took a while to post this lol, but anyways it seems that you actually have the right unit, (someone had one that the wrong unit #s) but ya the O2 sensor i guess isn't the prob. since you changed it already and the driving thing, but hopefully we can figure this out sometime soon lol, problems like these suck.

 

[adirondakkid]

I highly doubt this to be the case..but I have a Dell Mini (no CD drive)...so I used my wife's laptop to copy the entire R4 controller disc to an external HD...then hooked the HD to my mini so I could copy the files to it's internal HD..then I ran the install/setup program for the controller. The installation of the program ran fine..no errors, reported "successful" (or whatever it says at the end of the wizard)...I've also spent countless hours reading every bit of detail off of Splitsecond's website, making sure I did everything kosher. after installing this thing three times, making sure to load a fresh copy of the SuperMapStock to the ECU, following all recommendations to solder the connections (even going so far as to use silver rosin core solder which works awesome but is not cheap)...I'm at the point where I think I just pulled the short straw & bought the unlucky unit that has a slight defect. These things have proven nearly bulletproof from everyone else's experience, so I'm not surprised that eventually one might be bad...I guess it just sucks that it might be mine. I emailed Ken at PG regarding it, and I'm sure he'll have a good solution as it looks like he takes care of us rare MSP owners.

 

[adirondakkid]

I'm suspecting that somewhere in one of the 2 wires that connect to the O2 sensor there is a short or disconnect somewhere. When the car starts up & idles, it should be running in closed loop mode, where it is reading signals from the primary O2 sensor & determining fuel output based on that reading. When my car is wired normal, the car idles fine & gives a AFR of ~14.5. When the AFC is connected (and thus is spliced into the O2 sensor wire between the AFC & sensor) I get the heavy "fuel dump"....since the AFC is not programmed to change anything with fuel until it goes into open loop mode (programmed at -0.81psi according to my map settings as read from the AFC last I checked) in theory it should still not be able to change any fuel settings when it is at 15in Hg vacuum (rough idle decreases the vacuum idle a bit)....so if the O2 sensor wires were shorted/disconnected in the AFC somewhere, it would not be reporting any value to the car ECU, and therefore the car would be (in my head) trying to compensate by adding more fuel to get it's expected AFR from the primary O2 sensor.

Does this sound right to you guys? Like I said, I've done alot of reading & if the AFC behaves the way I understand it, it's really not changing anything...it's just that the ECU isn't seeing the signal it wants to see & therefore is acting haywire to try to adjust.

EDIT - also, can I connect just the Black, Red & Yellow/Black wires and not the MAF or O2 wires to see if I can monitor things without actually having the AFC interfere with anything? Also, could the unit likewise be wired with the above setup & just MAF wiring (not connecting the O2 wires) to again test if the unit is functioning properly. In a sense....can I do this kinda wiring & in turn test my theory that the O2 wires to the AFC are in some way compromised?

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

hmm, well don't hold me too this but it seems like that might work (the testing of partial wires) and see if it gives you any readings, but then again it might just not allow you to start the program if it has some kinda safety system or something that makes sure it only runs with everything connected.. but i doubt it does...
-Id say wait for ken to respond to you and then after what ever he says give it a shot, i don't think it would damage anything just have partial wiring, assuming you correctly plug the loose wires (don't hold me responsible though lol)

also, when you have the system all on and everything and monitering it, can you see what fuel cells the unit is using, like if you pull of the fuel map with the car on it should highlight the fuel cell that it is reading from.. just might be something else to look at.. not sure what it will do, but who knows maybe its reading the wrong cells lol... (just a shot in the dark).. let us know what ken says

 

[adirondakkid]

I can see the cells that it is pulling data from (highlights in blue as it moves through the cells), and of course these are all 10's since it's in vacuum.

I am just gonna wait for Ken's response at this point...