AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

Hmm, if that were the case you'd have to be down around 8.9 or so to even things out which seems a little low. I guess the only way we'll know is for someone to actually go out and try this. Unfortunately I am still a ways off from my build and any actual need for larger injectors... If I end up getting the ScanTool I may still try this after I install the cams. The stock ECU may not be able to fully compensate for the extra air. I'm really curious to see how this improves the driveability because even though the P5 drives just fine I get a little hesitation transferring into open loop because it jumps lean for a second. I wonder if this would fix anything?

8.9 actually sounds about right. Have you looked at the 440cc maps in this thread? They dip in the 8.8!
 
Ok, I just called.

They're not sure of the AFR %, but the scale is based on a 0-5v maf signal. If we start at a cell value of 10 it's neutral at 2.5V. At this point we can go +2.5V or -2.5V. The nice thing is that all the changes are Linear, meaning it's very possible to change values by a certain % to compensate for larger injectors without having to use a scan tool.

Every .1 of a change = +/-.0025v.
Wow, it's good to know it's linear - that should make the transition much easier. Unfortunately it doesn't help when you add more mods or up the boost but it would at least help transitioning from a stock inject-based tune to a larger injector-based tune.

Man, I've learned more today than I have in a while on these forums.
 
Wow, it's good to know it's linear - that should make the transition much easier. Unfortunately it doesn't help when you add more mods or up the boost but it would at least help transitioning from a stock inject-based tune to a larger injector-based tune.

Man, I've learned more today than I have in a while on these forums.

Hehe, knowledge is power.
 
oh boy... makes me wanna get a MSP ecu with all those maps on the first page...

Unless someone can provide me with a MAP for the SSAFC/P5 ECU combo :)

Or better yet... find me the wiring diagram for the Microtech LT8s Sequential Fire ver.1 ecu
 
^^^ Just make your own map. You're never going to find a pre-made one that works best for you. Just start slow and take it easy. The SS AFC is quite literally one of the easiest piggybacks to tune.
 
my 440 map in high boost like 12-14lbs was in the mid to high 7's. each .1 you take out of a map is = to about a milisecond pulse width change. IIRC
 
Does anyone know where I can get another disk? I lost mine in a move. And Im wanting to tune next month :(
 
Also, does anyone know where/how i can find out if there are any other 0-5v signal wires that i can clamp into, like even the MAF,Air temp. ect.. sensors would just be kinda cool to have as an option, but after looking around, not sure if there are and signals that will work, besides getting a scanning tool with outputs..ANYONe?
 
Also, does anyone know where/how i can find out if there are any other 0-5v signal wires that i can clamp into, like even the MAF,Air temp. ect.. sensors would just be kinda cool to have as an option, but after looking around, not sure if there are and signals that will work, besides getting a scanning tool with outputs..ANYONe?
Do you mean for datalogging? The MAF has a 0-5V output I believe so I'd imagine if you took one of the orange input wires and spliced it into the MAF wire you'd be able to view its readings. I guess theoretically you could do this both before and after the AFC so you could view both the unmodified and modified MAF signals. It isn't really important to know but it's something.
 
Is there a map for 440cc injectors that alter the idling AFRs? I've tried the few I could find but the idle AFRs are around 10.5-11.5 when there's no reason to use that much gas idling.
 
^^^ You need to get a scan tool so you can monitor the short and long term fuel trims. Read back the last few pages as we literally just had a discussion about this. You need to modify the closed loop signal.
 
anyone get a check engine light from running too lean with the fmic map? any suggestions for me?
 
anyone get a check engine light from running too lean with the fmic map? any suggestions for me?
Well is the car running too lean? If so, my suggestion is to fix it! Chances are the leaning out has nothing to do with the AFC as it only messed with open loop trims in which the ECU doesn't even go by sensors (pre-made maps and that's why the AFC works). Check vacuum lines...
 
ok another question, finally got my WB up and all that and i was wondering and noticed that when i do my runs in 3rd gear i start at about 2.5k and until it gets to about 3k or from -1to1.5psi the afr is about 14-15 after i hit the gas, i notice the hesitation and i have been reading on the internet for a little while and picked up on that it could be caused because the car is a little learn before it kicks in, which i can see.. soo
my question is if i do something like put a cell value for .5psi at 10.1 and 1psi at 10 and then start the 9.9values at 1.5psi, or something to that effect, the slight richening at the lower rpms when first stepping on the gas help that slight hesitation or something to that effect? I still have a lot of datalogging to do to get different situations and such so i can get a good baseline to see what is going on, but is that something that sounds right?.. because i noticed that a lot of the maps people have don't even bother changing anything before the stock supermap starts to change the values.. and i would like to try to fix that hesitation from 0-2psi, and i know that people say the stock ecu runs rich at first.. but it looks lean to me..
thanks a lot
 
The reason you don't see people changing the values below where the supermap kicks in is just for that reason. Below 1 psi the AFC is not doing anything per se (see last few pages to reference closed loop tuning) so changing those numbers without a scantool is likely to amount to nothing. Depending on when I hit the gas I will lean out for a brief second around 1 psi when the AFC kicks in but then again this was because my tune was no longer up-to-date with my mods. A little richening up in the lower psi range solved a great deal of hesitation for me. FWIW, AFRs or 14-15:1 isn't that bad for low boost (1-2 psi)
 
Ya thats what i was thinking of too, but then again I thought that the afc clamped the signals forcing the ecu to go into open loop depending on when you set the "over pressure at" which I have mine set to -1psi for now, i was thinking about just doing 0, but -1 is fine and i don't plan on changing the values until around .5-1psi..(i would think that i would be able to force the ecu to open loop once i see +pressure)

But just so i am clear on this, if i feel hesitation and the afrs show ~14-13 until 1.5psi about i would want to pretty much add fuel right?.. and if it turns out that when i put say.. 10.1 in for .5-1psi and its really rich i might just set it to 9.9 to make sure the ecu switches to open loop a little earlier or something along those lines.

-Also quick question that has been bugging me and ive been searching for like 2hours just now (among other times) my general afr's when i look at them seem kinda normal for stock supermap, but then again i know it can get more power, besides that small hesitation at low psi.. would i be right in guessing that when accelerating i would want afrs around 11.8-12.1 or generally from say.. 2psi-5psi and about 2.5krpm-4.5krpm(obviously once it gets around 4k make sure it stays in the higher 11s and then dropping to low 11s after 4.5k or so).. i saw MPNICK (sp?) say that 12.5 afr is great for building boost, would what i said before as far as some #s while building boost hitting into the 12-12.5 range be ok while at low rpm?.. The reason i ask this, and am going into detail about this is because after looking everywhere I haven't been able to find a good answer on what are a good general flow of #s when building boost and accelerating, everything has mostly just been on higher rpms and full boost, which i get and all but i usually don't drive that way, so the building boost and rpms faster is more what im concerned with, and i know the dyno is the real good place to do this.. but if someone could enlighten me in the meantime, because i can't get to a dyno anytime soon.
- I know its a pain but im in need of a full answer or explanation if possible, would be GREAT (and i know different afrs ect..work better with different mods/cars, but im just looking for a guide until i get can dyno it)
 
With the 10% ethanol stuff going around I wouldn't go above 12:1 at any time unless you want to run "special" gas. AFRs of 14-15:1 are just fine at low boost and low RPM. I would also be willing to bet your hesitation my be due to where you set the "over pressure" point. I had lowered mine to 0 psi at one point to get a better, more overall tune and that's when the hesitation started. I switched it back to 1.1 psi and while the hesitation isn't completely gone it is much better. I think it just has a better transition from closed to open loop around 1 psi. There really is no reason to tune in vacuum.
 
Ok i see, so when i was looking at my dattlogging i was right to want to keep afrs at about 11.5 on average spiking from 11-12 at most throughout the entire rpm range (except high rpms and going into low 11s ect..), and before i had connected my comp, i had pulled my map off the AFC and it was all 10s and the settings were all weird like the over pressure was set to 7 and so i just loaded the stock supermap and needless to say it was better. But my question still is, regardless of the afr's being safe that high at low boost/rpm, will adding fuel/andor/adjusting the map to get the afr more around 12-12.5 until the stock supermap kicks in(2psi).. will that increase hesitation (because too much gas).. or will that help it(gives car enough gas to start with so it can pick up speed).. and i know that the fact that the ecu switches from closed loop to open loop around that time, but i would like it, if possible to get that time from 0-2psi not so slow, like i when i step on the gas for these runs at ~2.5rmp the car just seems to sit there for a couple sec. like saying "full throttle,are you kidding me..?" lol before it starts to go (sorry if this is confusing but it seems to me that even without the turbo boosting the engine should be able to pick up some more speed when you hit the gas instead of waiting a few sec.(sometimes literally around 2sec)
-also im not planning on tuning it in closed loop or anything like that, i just want it into open loop by the time it hits .5-1psi at least..and since the "over pressure" being set to 1psi would let it stay at closed loop until then im guessing and my problem area is from 0psi-2psi than i would like to test ways to be able to change it to something that i like more.. but not sure which way to go as far as changing the #s

-and thank you for your help i really appreciate, its another "hump" im trying to get over in this fast pace learning, and its one i really want to understand a little better.
 
Last edited:

New Threads and Articles

Back