AEM F/IC writeup

You can tune above 4200 rpms just fine with any piggyback. 429 whp was not made in closed loop. If all I cared about was open loop, I would have never tapped the O2 and would have had my car tuned the very first night I installed the LC-1, however many weeks or months ago that was.

If you have the car back, and a wideband on your AUX input of the FIC, you should be able to get nice logs like I have been posting, regardless of what plots your tuner gave you.

First of all try, flooring it below 4200 rpms and see if you feel a change in power at 4200 rpms. You may not be able to notice it with your butt dyno, but you'll see it in the Injector Duty cycle and AFR plots of your log. If there is no transition, then your O2 has been modified, and you'll need a scan tool to make sure your trims are tuned out.

If your trims are good (close to 0), then you can try the two scenarios I mentioned before, but they will only cause a problem if your tuner modified your O2 signal for closed loop operation.

1. Take the car up to speed, and put it in a high enough gear so that you can floor it for more than three seconds without hitting 4200 rpms. Look at the AFR and duty cycle plots. You should see a spike in fuel when the car goes to open loop. If your tuner added fuel in the closed loop region to avoid LTFT's (which he should have), then you will run excessly rich until you are above 4200 rpms.

2. The other scenario is when you take the care at full throttle past 4200 rpms, and then upshift to rpms lower than 4200 rpms. The car will stay in open loop even though you dropped below 4200 rpms, and you have the same problem of too much fuel.

I've mentioned this before, but this is a very livable situation. Both of these scenarios are rare and can easily be avoided, but you need to understand what's going on with your trims, or you could pull the battery one day inadvertently resetting your PCM, and then blow your engine because your positive trims were wiped clean.
I showed him this post and he said he has done all of this and said oh well it's possible..
 
Forgot the update you guys on the car itself lol!! So far 150 miles since i got it back!! No check engine lights AEM afr gauge shows all good afr's!!
 
I already "duplicated" this a few weeks ago. I am not hating, I am simply stating the behavior that I have witnessed with my car. Lou will most likely have exactly the same behavior. I've posted screenshots of my findings along the way to help the other two guys (Rick and Lou) with an AEM out.

Lou, it sounds like your tuner did exactly as I did, which is offset the O2 and add fuel to tune the trims out, which is exactly what AEM instructed to do for closed loop tuning. To get a smooth transition, I added fuel just before the transition and pulled it just after. The switch over can still overlap and cause a brief spike in fuel because the crank sensor is an analog signal and the PCM and AEM will never switch at precisely the same time, but it's not really noticeable while driving and doesn't hurt anything.

I had to pull fuel (more precisely MAF voltage) up top as well. The reason is because with the MAF tapped, the relationship of the MAF signal is not linear. The resistor to ground decreases the voltage to obtain a similar voltage to what the PCM is expecting but not exactly. This is why if you used 1100ohm, you would need to adjust the MAF upwards at idle, and back down above 4.5V. A higher resistanace would mean you would need to reduce the MAF voltage further.

The important thing is to give yourself some head room on your duty cycle, so it is best to use a lower MAF signal and add fuel with the AEM.

Do you mind sending me your fi6 file? I would like to compare your maps to mine. Our mods are different so I expect the values to be different and it is unlikely we used exactly the same resistance as well. Even our rpm calibrations will not be exactly the same, so they are useless to load, but I'd like to see what RPM triggers he used for the transition and what mode he used for the O2 manipulation.

And if you do get time, please try out those two excessively rich scenarios. It's not something you would ever see on a dyno. I just happened to step on it on the highway in 5th gear one night and noticed a slight bog after about couple seconds of WOT. I later had my brother ride shotgun and watch my OBDII scan status with a stop watch, and it was consistently switching to open loop at the three second mark. That's when I decided to test the upshift at 4200 theory.

There may also be scenarios I haven't thought of, but they'll probably be too rare to ever worry about.
 
good job. lets see if any of the supposid "haters" can duplicate this..

Like jdwk said, nobody is hating here. We are the few people that are actually giving the AEM some thought and trying our best to make it work.

I haven't done anything with my FIC lately, due to the sudden clusterfuck my car has become. I've got a s*** ton of issues and my tune is no longer at the top of the list. That being said, Lou I would really appreciate it if you could type all the handwritten instructions on that sheet you emailed me. It is so damn blurry I cannot decode any of it. If I have to rip out my ECU again to rewire this thing, it needs to be the last time. So I want to make sure we have the right instructions before I **** with it anymore.
 
WTF Forum i posted it! Ill try it again
Ecu Fic Ecu Fic
21 CkP+ A8-Ckp -In 85 Cam+ A22 Cam+out
22 Ckp- A19 Ckp+in 86 Cam- A11 Cam - out
A10 Ckp -Out B9 Cam + In
A9 Ckp + Out B10 Cam - In

He also changed on the pinout that 23b should be switched to 24b
 
i know nobody is hating thats why i put the quotation marks... and supposid. all i see is good advice.
 
I took Rick's XLS and put it in a more logical order (to me at least), and added a couple missing cells. I also added the wiring harness pictures to help out.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AleecaR7erA6dEp2cWtkYktCcDIxQXMtMFUwOXlUVFE&hl=en&authkey=CP699oMH

I put in both options for O2 modification. I would highly recommend using the Analog A since it's more robust, but you lose some of the O2 features that the FIC has, like the square wave output.

There is also a bug in the software that reduces the values you set in the Analog A offset by 17% when you close and open the Analog A map. The FIC always sees this reduced value, so it doesn't affect your tune, it's just obnoxious because you think you set it to -.45 but next time you open up the map it will say -.37.

I need to inform AEM of this bug but it's not a showstopper.

I am probably going to sell my FIC with my wiring harness. The car is better with the FIC, but I am not planning on going to a bigger turbo or running a bunch of boost that would need its capabilities, it was more of a learning experience for me. PM me if anyone is interested.
 
Ricktalife, jdwk, and big Lou thanks for sharing your info and posting the information. It's much appreciated.
 
Lou, any chance to try out those scenarios? I am really curious if there was some trick your tuner was able to come up with that I wasn't. I could tell pretty quickly if you send me the fi6 file.
 
I was thinking about getting the AEM F/IC. Anyone from around CT using one? If so, would it be possible to get some help with the install and possible base tune? Still new to the tuner side.
 
There is no base tune unfortunately. If you ever want to prevent fuel cut you need to intercept the MAF signal which isn't exactly compatible with the FIC. All FIC owners will have to select a resistance to ground to bring the MAF signal within an acceptable range for the FIC. Depending on that resistance value, the MAF map will be completely different.

I can tell you though if you use a 1.1kohm resistance you will have the closest thing to a blank, all 0's table working. It should be a little lean at idle, and a little rich in the upper MAP regions.

If I didn't have this full time job that gives me the money to buy stupid toys like the FIC, I could write up a manual of what I've learned, but my sporadic posts will have to do for now.
 
jdwk did you use a patch cable or did you cut into the MSP wiring harness? If you used a patch cable, did you make it or purchase it?
 

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