AEM F/IC writeup

[Ricktalife]

That's great news! I'm glad you are making progress. Yea I'm not trying to turn this thread into MAF relocation, but I always let off as soon as my car bucks so it probably isn't updating the trim level. The reason I came up with the idea of resetting the trims to solve my relocation problem is because I have a BOV on the cold pipe so it is venting air that was already metered by the MAF, and the ECU sends too much fuel so yea. I will test it out this weekend.

 

[jdwk]

Well the BOV shouldn't be venting air until you have vacuum, so that shouldn't be causing the bucking. What it will cause is some serious fuel to be dumped when you let off the throttle (which could cause bucking, but only when you lift throttle unless you have a leak).

What pressures are you seeing on your AEM's MAP? Do these correspond well with your boost gauge and Profec?

Did you T the vacuum line in the car to go to both the AEM and your boost gauge, or are they separate lines from your block?


I didn't realize you have a dual setup. It really introduces a lot more variables into this. I would put a T tap on your MAF signal, and one on ground, and hook those up to a voltmeter so you can watch your MAF signal. It shouldn't go over 4.6v at stock boost levels.

So with your dual setup you have the WGA, the stock by-pass valve, the bov, the prosport boost gauge, the profec ebc, and now the AEM all coming off the IM's vacuum line? Seems like a bit much.

 

[Ricktalife]

Yea I wasn't implying that the bucking was caused by the BOV, just that it causes too much fuel to be dumped. I plan on relocating both the MAF and vacuum block and removing the BPV ASAP to fix these issues as I know they are bad setups. I'm going to see if I can get my dad to go halves on a good scan tool so I can watch the fuel trims and MAF in real time without hooking up the MAF wire.

 

[jdwk]

It's a worthwhile investment.

No update really, just been running around pig rich with no hesitation which is already a vast improvement. The car feels good. Probably going to tuck the wires and mount the AEM tonight. I like the under the console idea, although our cupholders aren't removable, so I'll probably run the USB cable into the armrest compartment. My vacuum line may not be long enough either, but I can always get a longer hose. Of course, the closer the line is to the souce the better.

Kind of off topic, but the WGA really should be hooked up to the compressor housing, not the IM. At the very least it should be on the hot or cold IC pipe. I think part of the reason we have so much compressor surge is because the WGA closes as soon as the throttle closes and you still have exhaust pressure for a split second forcing the compressor to spin into a closed throttle and a tiny BPV. If our WGA source was on the other side it would keep the WGA open until the pressure dropped.

 

[justanothermp5]

our cupholders? if your talking about proteges...then yes they are, but I dont really know what car you drive lol
all you have to do is pull the e brake cover, then pull up on the cup holder piece

 

[jdwk]

Well yeah if you take the whole piece off. I thought you just meant the actual cupholders themselves. I just had the whole console out to put in a leather shift boot.

 

[Ricktalife]

Okay I disconnected the battery and touched the terminals together for 30 seconds, but I just realized I didn't pump the brake to get any extra power out. Anyway, I took it for a drive and it still bucked a little when I got on it, but there is definitely some improvement because it wasn't as severe and instead I had mostly hesitation from running 10.0 until letting off. I drove to Sears to get a scan tool and to my surprise it was on sale for $100 (normally $125) and I also have a craftsman coupon for $15 off any purchase $100 and over WOOT. Only part that sucks is the coupon is not valid until tomorrow but I showed them and they agreed to hold it for me until I can get it tomorrow with the coupon . So unfortunately I couldn't check the MAF voltage and such but soon I will be able to and it should help tuning tremendously.

 

[jdwk]

Wow that's even cheaper than the one I got from harbor freight. I took my a while to get the car back together. The patch harness made putting the stock ecu back in nearly impossible. To do it right I would need to make new brackets, but currently I just removed the original brakets and wedged everything under the kick plate. The cables just made it to put the FIC under the console just in front of the cup holders.
Amazingly everything still works after jamming it all in there.

I noticed I had one casualty, I broke one of the clips on the sill. Those sills aren't cheap either. Sucks. Also one MIA. The cover to one of the screws on the center console just got up and walked away. Either that or it found its way under the kick plate, but that's not coming up. Looks like I got a trip to the Pick and Pull coming up.

 

[StealthWyvern]

So without me going back and reading everything have you guys figure out the first to gettign this thing up and working yet?

 

[Ricktalife]

Yea I was afraid when i had to put the ECU back too lol. It probably took about 15 minutes of carefully stuffing the wires under the kickplate, but they fit so all is well. Hopefully I will not ever have to pull it up again.

 

[Ricktalife]

So without me going back and reading everything have you guys figure out the first to gettign this thing up and working yet?

I think between jdwk and myself, we have figured out all the necessary parts of this thing. He seems to have figured out the closed loop tuning with the 02, and my wiring diagram is complete except I forget a couple of the wire colors but I think I have the pin numbers all filled in. I'm still working on it. I will continue to update the first post when I have time with the new information we have uncovered. I know this thread would be a pain to read and follow lol.

 

[StealthWyvern]

I think between jdwk and myself, we have figured out all the necessary parts of this thing. He seems to have figured out the closed loop tuning with the 02, and my wiring diagram is complete except I forget a couple of the wire colors but I think I have the pin numbers all filled in. I'm still working on it. I will continue to update the first post when I have time with the new information we have uncovered. I know this thread would be a pain to read and follow lol.

I have another dyno graph if you guys need it.. I doubt you will but if you do or just want to see it just pm me.

 

[HighSpeed]

sounds like this is moving the way I had hoped, of course hopefully you will have a complete working set up soon.......and be able to tune it

 

[Ricktalife]

sounds like this is moving the way I had hoped, of course hopefully you will have a complete working set up soon.......and be able to tune it

Yea I need to relocate my MAF and vacuum block so I can have the car running well before I tune it thoroughly. I already have my cold pipe cut for the MAF, but still need to figure out a plan for the vacuum block. I know I have to put it to the left of the check valve on the brake booster, but does anybody know if there is a minimum distance you need to keep between the two? I'm not sure if it's like the MAF where it has to a certain distance away from the throttle body.

Between work 8-5 mon-fri and school on tuesday and friday nights, I'm having trouble finding some free time to work on it. I'm going to pick up my scan tool tonight, so maybe I'll be able to at least test it out on the ride home.

I have another dyno graph if you guys need it.. I doubt you will but if you do or just want to see it just pm me.

You can feel free to post it here if you want, so others can see.

 

[StealthWyvern]

Ye
You can feel free to post it here if you want, so others can see.

ok, well here it is. It shows AFR, RPMS, HP/TRQ. It should give people a good idea why the stock tune sucks other then just kwowing it sucks. You can really tell when it goes into open loop.

 

[Ricktalife]

Wow. Were you boosting before you hit open loop? Cause your AFR's are above 15? Regardless that is super bad.

 

[StealthWyvern]

Wow. Were you boosting before you hit open loop? Cause your AFR's are above 15? Regardless that is super bad.

Yes as you can see the shop started it right aroudn 3k rpms and let her rip. I dont recall what gear that pull was on but it does show why the stock run sucks balls. Now if you were to get on it in first from a stop it stays in open loop through all gears some how.... its werid. Or at least thats what I noticed. Also when banging through the gears the rpms never drop below 4k rpms. I think thats why it was tuned like that. Which indeciated the stock tune was never tunes for part throttle and only WOT from a stop.. or well thats how I see it.

Edit: Forgot to mention thats only at 3psi on the stocker.. I need to readjust my WGA but its such a pain in the fuckign ass to do. MBC or EBC here I come sooner or later. lol

 

[jdwk]

At least your transition was kind of smooth. If you look back at my first data log I posted here, it's drops like a cliff.

I am just pig rich now and haven't got around to start pulling fuel. I've noticed a couple overfed burps when transitioning to half throttle driving around today. I got these when I was stock too, but only after I was was in open loop (over 4k). Now I get them at lower rpms too. It's just a little kick when too much fuel gets dumped out the exhaust. Pretty sure if it was night and I was behind the car I'd see the flames.

 

[justanothermp5]

Yea I need to relocate my MAF and vacuum block so I can have the car running well before I tune it thoroughly. I already have my cold pipe cut for the MAF, but still need to figure out a plan for the vacuum block. I know I have to put it to the left of the check valve on the brake booster, but does anybody know if there is a minimum distance you need to keep between the two? I'm not sure if it's like the MAF where it has to a certain distance away from the throttle body.

the vac block doesnt have a minimum distance from the check valve, as long as its to the manifold side of it, your good
and the fitting size youll need is 1/8NPT to 3/4 hose...if you have a vibrant, im not 100% on the yudkib, but im pretty sure that is 1/8NPT too

 

[Ricktalife]

the vac block doesnt have a minimum distance from the check valve, as long as its to the manifold side of it, your good
and the fitting size youll need is 1/8NPT to 3/4 hose...if you have a vibrant, im not 100% on the yudkib, but im pretty sure that is 1/8NPT too

Noted, thank you.