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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
No, Walmart does not sell oil with high moly content that Mazda uses.
2016 CX-5 Oil Change Frequency
- Thread starter KCSam
- Start date
No, Walmart does not sell oil with high moly content that Mazda uses.
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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
I just ordered 3 of the 5 qt. oil + filter kits from Med Center Mazda, to get the free shipping. One kit would have been almost $20 shipping, across just one state, or $65 total. 3 kits with free shipping was only $133.
Our 2014 does not have an oil life monitor. I've been doing 6 months/6K mile OCI's in my Integra for several years now, which more recently has been only about 3,500 miles in 6 months. I'm trying to decide if I should do 6K mile OCI's on our 2014 CX-5, or perhaps get an oil analysis done? Would an analysis have recommendations on OCI?
Our 2014 does not have an oil life monitor. I've been doing 6 months/6K mile OCI's in my Integra for several years now, which more recently has been only about 3,500 miles in 6 months. I'm trying to decide if I should do 6K mile OCI's on our 2014 CX-5, or perhaps get an oil analysis done? Would an analysis have recommendations on OCI?
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Just ordered OEM oil change kit from Med Center Mazda? Can you verify the OEM filters you got are Japan made PE01-14-302A or Thailand made 1WPE-14-302?
There're a couple of cases people sending in Mazda moly oil for UOA in this thread: SkyActiv Oil Analysis Thread. It's been proven Mazda moly can last well over 7,500 miles! With Mazda moly oil and OEM oil filter, I personally stick with an OCI of 5,000 ~ 7,000 miles or 12 months whichever comes first even though I have oil life monitor on.
He's talking about token Mobil 1, Penzoil, Castrol ect. 0w20 oil from autozone selling for $75.....not Mazda Oil with Moly.
FYI, I use the Zip Lock bag technique for my oil filter like this. Along with the Fumoto valve it makes for a clean oil change.
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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
He's talking about token Mobil 1, Penzoil, Castrol ect. 0w20 oil from autozone selling for $75.....not Mazda Oil with Moly.
FYI, I use the Zip Lock bag technique for my oil filter like this. Along with the Fumoto valve it makes for a clean oil change.
I thought for that price he was referring to OEM Mazda oil from a $tealership. Does AutoZone even sell oil that is over $12/qt? Even Mobil1 AFE in individual quart bottles, with an expensive oil filter like K&N, shouldn't be more than about $60. But yeah AutoZone oil prices are ridiculous compared to the exact same product from WalMart. Can't beat Mobil1 5-qt jugs for $25-$27. One time I found 0w-30 Mobil1 AFE that I use in my Integra at my local WalMart for about $15 a jug. I bought everything they had on the shelf at the time. (thumb)
SoulArmored
Member
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- 2016 CX5
Being a tech and doing all my own work I might be out of the normal routine. I'm running Redline 0W-20 with K&N Filter. Vehicle is a 2016.5 CX5 Touring. I did a first oil change at 1k miles and will do it everyone 6k from then on. Oil change doing it myself costs me $65. I really like the Redline Product and would recommend. I plan on keeping this car for a long time.
I live in FL as climate and driving character impacts recommended interval.
Thanks
Evan
I live in FL as climate and driving character impacts recommended interval.
Thanks
Evan
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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
I'd be interested to see a UOA on that Redline oil and see how it compares to Mazda's GF-5 0w-20.
I've done all my own work since I bought my Integra in 2001. Have never been to any mechanic ever, other than body work and alignments. Same with my wife's old Corolla and hope to continue the tradition with our CX-5.
SoulArmored
Member
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- 2016 CX5
I made a build thread with some more info on the Oil but a oil analysis might be something I do in future.
Side Note: with an Integra with 355k...Your doing something right!
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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
heh thanks, 357K as of this morning. I bought it from a neighbor down the street with 89K miles back in 2001. I've never done a UOA with that car, I need to get one done! I go 6 months on Mobil1 0w-30, which lately has only been about 3,500 miles.
So I just did my first oil change on our '14 CX-5 Touring, in preparation for a big road trip coming up next week. The oil was last changed by the dealer before we bought it, back in July I think. Not sure what they used, but it did have a Mazda filter on it. I put in 4.8 qts of GF-5 and a new Mazda filter. Oddly enough, the oil pan drain bolt did not seem to have a crush washer on it (checked both the bolt and the pan), so I put one on. I'll be interested to see what sort of MPG we get, although the bike rack on the back of the car will no doubt have a negative effect. I'll probably run this oil for about 6K miles then get a UOA.
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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
Oh yeah, I forgot to check the filter type. I read about it the other day.
I put in about 4.8 quarts, and the oil was just a hair under the top hole on the dipstick, which should be due to some of the oil sticking to some of the internal parts on the way down to the pan. I'll check it again this evening to see where it is, and to see if I need to go ahead and put in the last little bit of that one bottle.
Ohhh dang I should have remembered that plastic bag technique for the filter. I changed the oil before the car had been started for the first time on Saturday (sitting since Friday evening) and I still got a mess all over my hands. I also did the job without raising the car, which means I pretty much removed and put the drain bolt back in blind. I felt around to check for any signs of a washer stuck to the pan, there was none. None on the bolt, either.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
If you're sure the aluminum crush washer was not stuck with the drain bolt, then it's normal those oil change "tech's" simply don't think the crush washer is important although I do think the tech at a Mazda dealer should know better to use one, in addition to use a Mazda oil filter! Luckily the oil change kit from Med Center does include new crush washer. Do you mind to tell us what kind of Mazda OEM oil filter you got from Med Center?
BTW, if you drain the oil properly on a SkyActiv-G 2.5L, you do need about 5.25 quarts to make oil level reaches the full mark on the dipstick! The 4.8-quart oil change capacity in our owner's manual is wrong! Most people just do easy 5 quarts and call it a day! With 5 quarts you'll get about ~ ⅓ below the Full mark on the dipstick depending on how completely you drained the oil or if you have a Fumoto drain valve.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
Yeah if we don't raise the CX-5 a bit, it's hard to really get underneath the oil change hole location and "see" what it's really going on. I did use self-made 2x10 boards raising my BMW for oil change during the 2nd oil change on our CX-5. The old oil will overflow no matter how long you let the car sit or how careful you're taking the oil filter down! And use at least 5 quarts of fresh oil unless you don't drain old oil completely.
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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
I have regular plastic ramps that I've used for years with our old Corolla and several other family members' cars, and will probably use them with the CX-5 also. I only recently made some auxiliary ramps to fit on them so that I could get my Integra up on them.
My question is, I read that it's better to change the oil when cold to ensure most of the oil is down in the pan. This is opposed to changing it while hot or warm so that the oil flows out better, but more old oil would be stuck all up inside the engine. If I were to start the car and move it to put it up on ramps, then I would end up with cold oil all splashed up inside the engine, which means I would probably get even less of it out when actually draining it. So what's the best way to do it? I can't put it up on ramps and leave it overnight, not enough room in the garage for that.
SoulArmored
Member
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- 2016 CX5
I have regular plastic ramps that I've used for years with our old Corolla and several other family members' cars, and will probably use them with the CX-5 also. I only recently made some auxiliary ramps to fit on them so that I could get my Integra up on them.
My question is, I read that it's better to change the oil when cold to ensure most of the oil is down in the pan. This is opposed to changing it while hot or warm so that the oil flows out better, but more old oil would be stuck all up inside the engine. If I were to start the car and move it to put it up on ramps, then I would end up with cold oil all splashed up inside the engine, which means I would probably get even less of it out when actually draining it. So what's the best way to do it? I can't put it up on ramps and leave it overnight, not enough room in the garage for that.
With the viscosity of most oils used in today's vehicle I believe it is better to change it when hot. It drains pretty quickly back to the pan. Let drain for a few minutes and your getting pretty much all the oil out of the vehicle. Removing/Loosening the oil cap prior to draining helps with drainage as well. Be sure to fill the oil filter with oil and lube up the o-ring with fresh oil for good seal. That helps in the initial startup after change.
This 0W-20 almost seems like water.. IMO... 30-60 minutes should be sufficient if you can't let it sit overnight.
One of the reasons I change it cold is I put on ramps the night before I plan to change so I don't have to wait for oil to drain down again in motor after I put on ramps the next day.
Definitely lube the oil-filter o-ring... I've never been one to fill oil filters though.
I've had a few waning years on changing it myself but pretty much changed oil on most things since I started to drive back in '87.
One of the reasons I change it cold is I put on ramps the night before I plan to change so I don't have to wait for oil to drain down again in motor after I put on ramps the next day.
Definitely lube the oil-filter o-ring... I've never been one to fill oil filters though.
I've had a few waning years on changing it myself but pretty much changed oil on most things since I started to drive back in '87.
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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
Yeah I've never filled oil filters either, in the past, mainly because my Integra has its filter horizontal on the back of the block, and our old Corolla had the filter on the front of the block with the filter opening facing slightly down (filter attachment tilted back slightly from horizontal). So that made it pretty much impossible to fill the oil filter prior to installation.
I did pour in a little bit into the new Mazda filter this time, however.
Here's another question: the filters I got from Med Center have some shrink-wrap plastic around the filter opening, and when I pulled it off there seemed to be some sort of goopy lube substance around the edge of the filter and on the o-ring. Are these filters already pre-lubed? I went ahead and wiped a little oil on the o-ring with my finger, but I'm not sure if it was really necessary.
Never in my life have I seen a pre-lubed filter, not even when I used to get OEM Honda filters for my car, back about 15 years ago.
I did pour in a little bit into the new Mazda filter this time, however.
Here's another question: the filters I got from Med Center have some shrink-wrap plastic around the filter opening, and when I pulled it off there seemed to be some sort of goopy lube substance around the edge of the filter and on the o-ring. Are these filters already pre-lubed? I went ahead and wiped a little oil on the o-ring with my finger, but I'm not sure if it was really necessary.
Never in my life have I seen a pre-lubed filter, not even when I used to get OEM Honda filters for my car, back about 15 years ago.
Interesting... the filters I have gotten from Med Center all had dry seals as I would expect. No idea why they were seemingly pre-lubed on yours. Artifact from manufacturing? I typically dabble on too much oil anyway and have to clean up after putting filter on.
SoulArmored
Member
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- 2016 CX5
I have never seen a 'pre lubed' filter so can't really give any comment. A quick spin with an oiled finger is good insurance anyway.
As far as filter filling and difficulty with some filter placements... an oil filter can actually hold a decent amount of oil; especially a new one as it the elements inside absorb a good bit. If you poor some in it will seem to disappear because of this. I'd probably add some slowly until the elements are soaked and the filter actually starts to fill. If filled to a 1/4 and elements saturated you will leak little if any when installed.
As far as filter filling and difficulty with some filter placements... an oil filter can actually hold a decent amount of oil; especially a new one as it the elements inside absorb a good bit. If you poor some in it will seem to disappear because of this. I'd probably add some slowly until the elements are soaked and the filter actually starts to fill. If filled to a 1/4 and elements saturated you will leak little if any when installed.
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- Plano, Texas, USA
From what you described on OEM oil filters you got from Med Center Mazda, I can tell you have 1WPE-14-302 from Thailand instead of PE01-14-302A from Japan. This Thai OEM oil filter does have some sort of grease lubricant on the rubber O-ring and it's protected by heat-shrink wrap but the rubber O-ring is dry on Japanese OEM oil filter although it's also protected by heat-shrink wrap. Actually I just bought all Japanese made PE01-14-302A oil filters in their stock on the other day and Med Center Mazda now has no more Japanese made OEM oil filters.
I follow the rules exactly like SoulArmored stated above, drain the warm oil with oil filler cap open. I don't fill the oil into new oil filter either but mainly because the way the filter installed doesn't allow me to fill. With Mazda I'll start to change my habit and pour some oil into the filter then do the installation.
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- 2014 CX-5 Touring
Yeah they're Taiwan-made filters. Of course the one I removed was a Japan-made filter. Does it really matter? I remember years ago I would go to the local Honda dealer to pick up a Honda filter, and I would always tell them I wanted a "Made in USA" filter by Filtech, as opposed to the Made in Canada filters for Honda, made by Fram. Blech.
Maybe it's the Taiwanese filters that have this lube stuff on the seal already?
