2008 CX-9 Brake Rotor replacement

[sfollenius]

Well interestingly enough, your rotors have a diameter of 320mm and the ones I ordered have an out diameter of 273.7mm, so it appears you are correct!

 

[sfollenius]

I called the place I ordered them from, they are looking into it. I found the correct rotors on E-Bay for $52 each shipped, they sell them for $62 each plus shipping, so unless they do something for me, I may get them off e-bay and keep the pads.

 

[kornholio]

To the person that doesn't want to post the instructions on here. Don't you have the original posters email? please ask him if you can post the instructions on here. It would be helpful to the rest of us that need the instructions for this replacement. I wouldn't see why he would not want to share this information with the rest of us on this forum. On other forums members even put up photos and videos of repair work they have done in order to make it easier for other members on those forums.

 

[sfollenius]

The brake change looks pretty standard compared to most vehicles. I took my tire off yesterday to have a look. The philips head screws on the rotor can be a bear, I ended up using a philips bit hooked up to a ratchet with an extension and they came off rather easily. There are two large screws on the back of the caliper, those I am sure will take some force, probably have to use a lever of some sort, that has been my experience in the past. Also, remember to take the cap off the brake reservoir and keep an eye on the level as you push the cylinder back in.

 

[neo2299]

View attachment 2008 Mazda CX-9 Rotor Replacement with pictures.pdfView attachment 2008 Mazda CX-9 Rotor Replacement with pictures.pdf

 

[sfollenius]

Perfect, thanks!

 

[kornholio]

Thank you very much. It is very appreciated. Makes my life much easier. Thanks again.

 

[nuru]

Lindyrect- I had a somewaht similar experience. Dealer quoted me $150 to turn the OEM rotors when I brought the car in for warranty for the suspension "click" and paint peel of the armrest trim.

The rotors I replaced the OEM with cost $215 shipped with free pads. I believe the difference of $65 is worth the increase in stopping power and confidence with the new brake setup.

I hope the centric rotors and new pads are working well for you. Kindly give us some feedback on your new brake setup.

Regards.

Can you post a link of the place where you got your slotted dimpled rotors and pads?

Regards

Nuru

 

[sfollenius]

I got my rotors, the were in fact wrong as assumed. Returning them and they are mailing me Disc Brake Rotor Centric 120.45080 2 $131.10 This is the same rotor that Lindyrect used, just not slotted/dimpled.

 

[sfollenius]

My correct rotors come in on Tuesday, I guess I will do the brake/rotor change this weekend, finally!

 

[not_too_shabby]

Has anybody tried a combination of powerslot rotors and OEM pads? I won't even try another set of OEM rotors, but OEM pads are usually a bit softer and less likely to squeal than after market pads.

Tirerack has the part number for the front rotors listed as 126.45080SL and 126.45080SR.

 

[sfollenius]

Those are the correct part #'s for the Centric Rotors.

 

[4wardmotion]

What do you guys think about getting a rotor that has the special coating versus not? Is the coating that helps prevent / minimize rust more of a 'cosmetic' thing? All the rotors I've seen are usually pretty rusty except for the area that contacts the brake pads.

I suppose I can always grease them up to prevent the rust!(smash)

 

[sfollenius]

The Centric premium rotors actually have a black paint coating over exposed areas (outer edge and center hub) so I think this should help!

 

[4wardmotion]

The Centric premium rotors actually have a black paint coating over exposed areas (outer edge and center hub) so I think this should help!

I ended up ordering the Centric "C-Tek" rotors. I contacted Centric and talked to someone in their service department and asked them what the difference was between the Centric and C-Tek rotors (Part #'s are nearly identical; 120.45080 for the Centric, and 121.45080 for the C-Tek) and they said they were identical EXCEPT for the 'E-Coating' that the Centric rotors receive to minimize rusting. Since I drive the car almost daily and park in a garage, I opted for the cheaper option (C-Tek) which were nearly 1/2 the cost of the Centric rotors. I have no idea if most rotors are or aren't typically treated to prevent rusting, but any car I've owned, they always looked rusty except for the brake pad contact area....but we'll see.

 

[sfollenius]

I have 120.45080 as well, will install them this weekend! What pads did you end up with, I ended up getting the premium Centric Ceramic. They seem to have good reviews in other forums for other vehicles.

 

[4wardmotion]

I have 120.45080 as well, will install them this weekend! What pads did you end up with, I ended up getting the premium Centric Ceramic. They seem to have good reviews in other forums for other vehicles.

Same ones - part# 105.12580 I was a little nervous about ordering them because I've seen mixed reviews - some love them and some think they're a waste of money, however I've only seen positive comments from other 9 owners. I'm pretty easy on brakes, so I don't think I'll be disappointed. It will be a few weeks before I have a chance to install mine - let me (us!) know how you like the new setup.

 

[ZoomFive]

Anyone try the Centric Cyro-Stop motors from Centric?

 

[sfollenius]

Installed the brakes and rotors, both fronts. All went smoothly except the rotors were really rusted on there! I had to use my sledge hammer to get them off, forget about a mallet lol. I hit that thing for 10 mins with a mallet and it wouldn't budge! The factory rotors were full of rust on the inside, I have piles of it in my garage now. Anyhow, other than that all was smooth, 2 hours total time.

 

[Lindyrect]

I know what you mean. I guess when I said mallet I should have been more explicit. I have a plastic mallet with lead shot in it for doing some good banging with little damage. A rubber mallet is good enough to beat your self with over the head when doing a rotor job.