2002 P5 stock sound

[spacerabbit]

Ok, one more question. My pro5 has the side airbags. I'm assuming these are in the seats, and not the doors. Am I right in this, or are they in the doors? Just wanted to make sure before I removed the door panels.

Thanks again,
SpaceRabbit

 

[1sty]

They won't be in the doors.

 

[mctoone]

Another speaker question...( I'm dumb about car audio keep in mind)...if you replace the front speakers with betters ones, will the littles tweeters in the door still work?

 

[MisterT]

Re: NOT nakamichi

the head unit is NOT made by Nakamichi.

per the Mazda shop manual:

Identification with Printed Numbers/Label Base unit
1. To identify the supplier name, compare the leftmost number of the ID code (4 digits), printed on the upper right corner of the LCD, with the table below.

ID# Supplier name
1 Panasonic
2 Clarion
4 FMS Audio

Whoever makes it whether it be any of the three, do to it being factory, it's not as good as either of the three's regular line up of CD players. One of the best factory sounding stereo was a girlfriend's new Nissan Altima. It had a Bose setup that was shockingly good overall SQ for factory setup. I was impressed!

MisterT

 

[1sty]

Another speaker question...( I'm dumb about car audio keep in mind)...if you replace the front speakers with betters ones, will the littles tweeters in the door still work?

If yopu leave them connected yes, but I would get rid of them.

 

[spacerabbit]

Ok, so hopefully this will be my last string of stupid questions.

Since I will be putting in an amp, but keeping the stock hu, do I need to get a wiring harness?

Also, putting the amp under the seat (I'm thinking the passenger side) will this be fine for cooling for the amp?

Lastly, my pro5 has the upgraded security system, are there any issues with it I need to know about before unhooking the battery for hooking up the amp?

Thanks a lot guys, I'm sorry to ask such questions, just trying to cover all my bases.

Spacerabbit

 

[1sty]

The security should be fine although it will likely go off once you reconnect the battery.

THe wiring harness is not needed but you can get the standard and reverse harnesses and then you will not to cut or splice a single factory wire, just the harnesses. That was going back to stock is a 10 minute job.

The amp has plenty of cooling under the seat.

 

[pro00]

how would you put an amp under a seat
with the floor vent there

 

[spacerabbit]

See, that's kinda why I was asking. I've not looked there yet, but I had heard there were vents down there. I'll have to take a look. I'm assuming the only other place to put one then is in the back/trunk area?

 

[pro00]

that is the place that i put my amp too, at the back/trunk space
however, i saw someone cut the vent off, now
i don't know the complications that he may ran into
or if he found another place under the seat that he hooked his amp to the seat or something
dunno

1st MP3 in NH??

 

[1sty]

Most amps are small enough where you can just let the vent sit on top of the amp, or you can cut the vent back a bit to clear it, its just then plastic. You can even remove it if you like, but I would tape off the connection point.

 

[spacerabbit]

Ok, my string of lame questions continues on. So I looked under the seat this weekend, to check for the vents and sure enough they are there. So, I may still try to mount the amp under the seat, and do as 1st Mp3 said to do and simply lay the vent on top of the amp or around it etc. My question now is, I noticed the wiring for the side airbags under there. If I end up taking the seat out to mount the amp, if I unhook this wiring, I'm not going tbe in danger of setting off these airbags in any way correct?

Thanks again, sorry for the string of questions.
SpaceRabbit

 

[1sty]

Disconnecting the air bag by unluging the clip should never do anything but to be certain and to be safest on any amp install the negative battery terminal should be disconnected befroe you do anything. Then you are free to unlug and re-plug as much as you want with no fear of issue.

Laying the vent on the will cause no issue.

I can't believe you doubt the overwhelming knowledge of 1sty!
(rofl)

 

[spacerabbit]

Hehe, no doubting at all, I was just saying that I was going to try what you suggested

Ok, one last question. I bought the amp on ebay, it comes on wed. I have a feeling it won't come with anything but just the amp. It's a JBL GTQ240. I downloaded the manuals from JBL's site, so I have all of that. The one thing I've been noticing, when looking at this amp, and others as I have shopped around is that the speaker level inputs appear to be receptacles for some kind of plug, and not simply terminals that would accept the speaker cable. I'm assuming amps would ship with some kind of plug/wiring harness that goes into this plug. Is this right? If so, I think I will have to find one for this amp.

Thanks again, I wish I was in NH, I'd just come up to your shop and have you install all this 1st Mp3

SpaceRabbit

Thanks again for all the help, I really appreciate it.

 

[1sty]

A new amp will come with the plug in, being ebay you can never tell. If you have to buy the part you will be looking at a $30-$50 part from JBL if you can't find one elsewhere.

 

[spacerabbit]

Ok, last question I believe. I went to one auto install place this week and the sales guy was telling me that he did not like using the speaker level inputs on amps, that he much prefered adding the line level converter and using the RCA inputs. What do you guys think about this? Does having the line level adapter give you a cleaner signal then using the amps on board speaker level inputs? I just wanted to hear others opinions on this, make sure this guy wasn't putting me on.

Thanks guys,
SpaceRabbit

 

[1sty]

It is a personal preference. Also keep in mind he gets more accessory profit if you buy a converter. A good loc can be better then one built into an inexpensive amp though. I wouldn't rule out a good navone LOC and then some RCAs.

For my personal use I would try speaker level first and then worry about LOCs if the signal was noticably unclean.

 

[spacerabbit]

Cool Mp3, thanks for the input. The amp is a JBL GTQ240, so it's a decent amp I believe, so I'm thinking it should do fine without the loc. But, I will try it first, and if I hear noticable line noise, I'll look into the LOC.

 

[1sty]

SOunds good.
If you do need a LOC don't get one at a shop. Most are the lousey tsunami junk. Go to www.davidnavone.com
He has been making them for longer then I knew there was car audio

 

[spacerabbit]

Very cool, thanks again. You've been a wealth of help.

SpaceRabbit