2.5T CX-5 Brake part replacement

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CX5 17GT,21SIG
Where can I find parts to replace my 2021 2.5T signature brake pads and rotors. Is there a better option than the OEM? the OEM brake squeaks very loud and dusty ever since new. now 35k miles in the car the brake squeaks every time I brake. maybe drill and slotted rotors? I like the look lol.
 
Slotted rotors are fine, but stay away from the lower-price drilled rotors. Stress fractures can often occur around the holes.

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Slotted rotors are fine, but stay away from the lower-price drilled rotors. Stress fractures can often occur around the holes.

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I've seen worse than that. Saw daily driver that was towed into garage and drilled rotors that just fell apart into chunks. I'm sure their might be some for sale that are high quality ones the racers use but wouldn't trust most of what's for sale out there. Why risk your safety with drilled rotors?

Stick with OEM rotors , OEM type rotors or slotted aftermarket rotors. Get ones with painted hats or paint them before install.
 
Why did you put up with squeaking brakes so long? That's a dealer go to under warranty. My 2021 GTR has quiet brakes since new. Absolutely nothing wrong with OEM. Ed
 
What @erhayes said. Squeaky brakes would definitely be covered under warranty. If not the basic warranty, then definitely the 1 year "adjustment" warranty. You should be able to get the brakes inspected/serviced or components replaced for free under warranty.

But if you do want aftermarket rotors, I'd go with either blanks or slotted (for looks).
 
Why did you put up with squeaking brakes so long? That's a dealer go to under warranty. My 2021 GTR has quiet brakes since new. Absolutely nothing wrong with OEM. Ed

What @erhayes said. Squeaky brakes would definitely be covered under warranty. If not the basic warranty, then definitely the 1 year "adjustment" warranty. You should be able to get the brakes inspected/serviced or components replaced for free under warranty.

But if you do want aftermarket rotors, I'd go with either blanks or slotted (for looks).

two reasons. one, dealership is 3 aways away back and forth is 400+miles lol. two, I have jb4, intake, and exhaust modified. didn't want to take it all off. don't want to give up my lifetime towing and powertrain warranty.
 
I picked up a used 2019 with 12,000 miles on it and the front brakes are squeaking fairly consistently. It is out of warranty based on month it was delivered so going to need to handle it on my own. I am seeing several posts on noisy brakes and warped rotors. I don't get vibrations just squeak. I plan on digging into this tomorrow and will post a reply on my findings.
 
Step 1 ... Go out somewhere with no traffic and safely do several hard stops from a higher speed to get some heat in those pads and rotors.

That's what I would do if it were mine. :)
Yep. Sounds like the cars been sitting for awhile. Drive it around for a bit. Squeeks should go away. If not then you should check how much rear brake pad is left.
 
YES! What @Jack Rabbit said! Our 2014 was squeaking for a while - nothing urgent, I thought. Ugh. When I got around to checking, rear pads had worn to the metal and grooved the rotors. Doh!

New pads and rotors later, all was well
 
Step 1 ... Go out somewhere with no traffic and safely do several hard stops from a higher speed to get some heat in those pads and rotors.

That's what I would do if it were mine. :)
Why waste time, just do full brake service and grease caliper pins and replace with OEM rotors and pads. Make sure you put car in Service Mode to release brakes and reverse out caliper pistons. I know 2021.5 cx5 you have to do that with software tool, but not all older models.
 
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Why waste time ...
Because I don't like to waste time or money fixing something that likely doesn't need fixing. The poster I was responding to described a 3 (model) year old car with only 12k miles and complained of a squeak sound while braking with no vibration issues. I've heard that description more than once from owners of lightly driven vehicles which can often be remedied with some hard brake applications. Zero cost, no additional time (doing this while one is out and about already)

You're suggestion would most likely cure the squeaky brake issue as well, at a cost of hundreds of dollars and hours of time.

Life is replete with choices.
 
I did not know you had 12k only. You can brake as hard as you heart desires as you have already dine by now a hundred times. The rust etc has set in, and iether live with it, thinking all the time, "will the brakes seize, one day" and get your family killed or better to address the problem.
Life has choices. It all depends on how much your life is worth. 😜
 
I did not know you had 12k only. You can brake as hard as you heart desires as you have already dine by now a hundred times. The rust etc has set in, and iether live with it, thinking all the time, "will the brakes seize, one day" and get your family killed or better to address the problem.
Life has choices. It all depends on how much your life is worth. 😜
OP reported no other signs of a frozen caliper...doubtful rusted calipers with only 12 k miles.
 
In the end if it bothers you, as it should if safety is a concern, you will end up doing exactly what I have advised you to do. You may have purchased a flood zone car, that has been moved town and resold after a quick cleanup. Check inside the big electrical connectors that are located in the lowest part of the car for signs of rust inside the connector pins.
 
Nowadays it's hard to sell a car with flood damage. A carfax usually will reveal flood damage, overturned vehicles, major accidents and totals.
It's very hard to cleanup mildew smell. I looked at one vehicle that had an off smell and asked the seller about and they claimed their child had spilt milk in back seat. Finally pulled the carfax and saw it was driven into and overturned in a lake.

If OP pulls the carfax and his brakes are working properly and not locking up, he should be fine. Maybe take it to a local wrench for a quick checkup to alleviate any worries.

Imo, he probably needs rear pads.
 
I found this. I'm not sure if they are good or do they even work on the cx5 turbo?



Part No. K8351
I believe PowerStop sells b-stock of those same rotors under the name Brakemotive on the "e" "bay" (slight blemishes on hats but otherwise the rotor surface is perfect and smooth). The Brakemotive kit combines b-stock PowerStop rotors (score!) but with their cheapest ceramic pads (inferior to OEM). The package address comes from Powerstop distribution address if I recall, Powerstop instructions, and power stop wrap/labeling.

I can't speak on its lifespan on snowy regions but I've had the rotors for maybe 3 years on my Mazda6 and maybe 1 year on my CX-5. No rusting. No cracks. Good braking performance. Would def buy again. Would recommend. Only wished it came slotted and not drilled but so far no cracks. No high pitch noises, pulsating, hot spot deposits, grooves, ect.

For pads I've got Raybestos Element3 EHT pads. (Rockauto).

Pentosin Super DOT4 brake fluid (Autozone).

CRC Silaramic high temp brake grease for slide pins. (Amazon or Napa?) Liberal amount and burped air out.

 
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I don't know what brake fluid your car takes, but most take DOT3. And for those who don't know, you CANNOT mix DOT3 and DOT4!
And you cannot drain all DOT3 and pour in DOT4 either. There is too much to explain here, but trust me, you don't want to even try. Most domestic road car worriers, blindly go around changing things, and have little or no idea as to it real benefits on public roads and regular road speeds. (Exception, racing cars and high performance cars, NOT Mazda street cars)
 
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