1st Upgrade Poll

[pip7441622]

Ha, i'm the 1st to vote something else...here's my opinion:
Get a boost guage first, then a boost controller/colder spark plugs, up the boost to 8-10psi, and enjoy. Save for front mount and down pipe (w/o cats).

I had an intake on for awhile (short ram and cold air), they do nothing but decresase your gas milage, make noise, and cause problems (Stalling issues with mine). Last nite I went back to stock, and am enjoying it. (I have not raised the boost a little, but I HEAR 8psi is fun, its how the car should be ).

Just up the boost a little, and get the things you need to keep your engine working.

 

[sm76]

Call it rice if you want, but I'm going gauges first because watching for wierd movements in Boost or oil pressure is an easy way to keep an eye on your engine.

 

[Turbo Matty P]

I guess my advice as ASE certified mechanic and turbo-rebuilder for mitsubishi means very little. What do I know about turbos and how they operate?? vey little obviously.

jred I catch your sarcasm, the funny thing is when my motor blew I had the MBC OFF the car and was using a boost guage to check my boost vs my higher than normal hp ratings. I told the dyno operator I was only running 5psi with a 7psi peak.....he asked me what the engine was rated...I told him 170fwhp... he informed me I was putting down 174whp and 169.b/ft....WITHOUT the mbc....thats why we hooked up the boost guage to see what was going on. My car was problematic. It had boost creep and a faulty ignition module, but whatever......

boost guages aren't going to you anything except you're running embarrassingly low boost compared to other vehicles. Frankly I don't want that staring me in the face.

 

[Nextruss]

ok so for gauges, which three are top 3 to get; boost, air/fuel, oil pressure??

 

[Turbo Matty P]

HAHAHAHA, THIS is what I'm talking about....also the whole turbo timer thing is reatrded. All bark, no bite.

 

[noclue119]

HAHAHAHA, THIS is what I'm talking about....also the whole turbo timer thing is reatrded. All bark, no bite.

I know ur are a turbo rebuilder. But me and several ME from GaTech have see turbos break due to inadaquite cooling. So i'm getting my TT... OH ya without a cruise control my TT warns me when i'm over 110 kmh or 75 mph that way don't speed too much either. So it has more function then just keeping ur car running. Added bounse i guess.

 

[MazdaSpeeder00]

You have to get the Exhaust or IC first. The CAI is all for show/sound with a stock car. It will give very minimal gains. The exhaust and IC free up all the potential. Im getting my first mod next weekend. FMIC kit. exhaust is later then EBC/guages and maybe 5,000 bumper stickers since they seem to add hp to the honda's.

 

[MazdaSpeeder00]

I know ur are a turbo rebuilder. But me and several ME from GaTech have see turbos break due to inadaquite cooling. So i'm getting my TT... OH ya without a cruise control my TT warns me when i'm over 110 kmh or 75 mph that way don't speed too much either. So it has more function then just keeping ur car running. Added bounse i guess.

you want a turbo timer? I'll sell you my watch.

 

[noclue119]

you want a turbo timer? I'll sell you my watch.

You didn't read my post did u... I don't liek sitting in my car after i drive it hard.

 

[MazdaSpeeder00]

You didn't read my post did u... I don't liek sitting in my car after i drive it hard.

I dont like reading.... lol j/k

 

[noclue119]

Its cool I hate working so i'm spending time here....

I dont like reading.... lol j/k

 

[MazdaSpeeder00]

(drinks)

Its cool I hate working so i'm spending time here....

 

[Turbo Matty P]

wow....usually my cars cooled in the less-than-a-mile it takes to get from the interstate to my house. Also, the MSP turbo (as I've said time and time again) does not need a cool off period. It uses oil cooling and coolant cooling. When you shut the motor IF the turbo is hot enough to require cooling it actually syphons coolant through the system.. It's a very unique feature to this turbo. Garrett website has more info (or did when I bought my MSP). Also, if you have to have a guage warn you of your speed wouldn't it be easier to use the speedometer?? It's free.

turbo timers, guages etc are all for show....and thats ok, if thats what you want to project to other people. It's just not for me. Physics and logic both say the first mod on ANY turbo car should be high octane fuel. second to that is exhaust system. The IC is horribly inefficient but will do it's job at speed. Only after doing simple would you need a boost gauge to monitor boost pressure. This will warn you before there is a problem. Also, by replacing the FULL exhaust and IC and SRI you will notice an increase in boost...probably about 2-3psi. This is what I showed on my car, but I believe we had a faulty wastegate on my car also. I do know the stock IC will create a loss but first and foremost...EXHAUST. Just do it and one of these days after youve spent years working on cars and building custom cars you'll realize I was right.

 

[jred321]

I guess my advice as ASE certified mechanic and turbo-rebuilder for mitsubishi means very little. What do I know about turbos and how they operate?? vey little obviously.

jred I catch your sarcasm, the funny thing is when my motor blew I had the MBC OFF the car and was using a boost guage to check my boost vs my higher than normal hp ratings. I told the dyno operator I was only running 5psi with a 7psi peak.....he asked me what the engine was rated...I told him 170fwhp... he informed me I was putting down 174whp and 169.b/ft....WITHOUT the mbc....thats why we hooked up the boost guage to see what was going on. My car was problematic. It had boost creep and a faulty ignition module, but whatever......

boost guages aren't going to you anything except you're running embarrassingly low boost compared to other vehicles. Frankly I don't want that staring me in the face.

which ase's have you taken? my brother is working on his right now.

damaged headgasket before going to the dyno=****** up car, no matter what was on it at the time it blew. you just happened to blow it totally with the mods off. that's my opinion on the matter. and i would hope an ase tech could fix a little boost creep problem. but no need to argue about this, neither one will change their stance.

there are other gauges than boost (greddy has a nice a/f meter, and AEM now has a wideband a/f meter that fits in a regular size gauge pod), but most people plan to increase the boost, so this should be the first aftermaket gauge people buy. maybe it's just me from reading everyone in the dsm community's opinion on what someone's first mod should be though. a boost gauge will also tell you if your crappy plastic ic piping cracked, or if you ****** up one of the vac lines somewhere along the way when installing something. you should also have one functioning before installing a fmic to make sure you didn't cause any leaks while installing. it'll help with the diagnosis of issues.

in near stock form will a boost or any other gauge help? no. does anybody on here want to stay stock? no.
i do agree that turbo timers are worthless unless you have extra money to throw around

 

[DSMConvert]

Ok first off the Garrett turbos DO need to cool down if run hard....In extreme cases the turbo will infact "boil" the oil and cause a burned crusty residue to form around the turbo bearings, shaft and oil passage. If this continues it results in inefficient oil flow therefore leading to turbos burning up. Its been dyno proven that on the majority of stock turbo cars exhaust and DP are the biggest initial gains on stock cars, after freeing up the exhaust, then it would be a good idea to get more air into the egine via a intake of some sort. As far as fmics go please remember the following. Cheap fmics often have large pressure drops resulting in the turbo making a ton of pressure, while the manifold sees very little, secondly it is important to consider both the cfm flow of the turbo and fmic. For example the small greddy fmic flows around 600 and is only efficient if used on turbos up to Big16Gs, due to the fact any bigger and the turbo would flow more than the fmic could handle causing a backlog that is back for the intake wheel. My background.....ASE certified, custom built a mazda mx-6 turbo which is now the blueprint for one of the larger companies supplying turbos and manifolds to probes and mx-6 custom setups, completely built 98 Eclipse GSX, and a built 96 collectors edition corvette. I consider myself very knowledgable when it comes to turbos and modifications pertaining to turbos, but would never flame someone who is merely stating their opinions. Instead of yelling and flaming people why not help them learn by explaining instead of just posting your big bad list of creds? Ok I'm off my soap box now...

-JOhn

 

[All Boost]

Matty P- For me, i'm anti rice, but i figure in the long run the boost gauge will tell me when something is wrong in the system boost wise. Just ta clear that up.

IMO a full A pillar full of useless gauges is Rice.

peas

 

[loudpdl]

exhaust buddy....turbo's hate stuffy exhausts. I would go:

cat-less DP
cat-less MP
resonator
(nice) muffler (maybe even stock for the stealth look)

Interesting...I was seriously thinking about FMIC, but now I'm leaning towards a catback exhaust - should have good gains w/out voiding warranty. I do not want loud, so I like your idea about the stock muffler with new pipes. Has anyone done this? Would the stock muffler work well with the increased flow of a 2.5" catback? The stock dp is 2.25", right...so (newbie question) so would the new catback need a transition from 2.25 to 2.5. I assume this would cause problems later when I go for a new larger diameter dp.

 

[[syko.xero]]

If I had a brand new Mazdaspeed and a few grand to spend I would get in order: 1) triple pillar pod (with spray paint to match the interior a pillar color) and add an autometer ultralite boost/egt/oil pressure gauge 2) iON Front Mount Intercooler 3) iON Turbo-Back Exhaust 3) iON Cold Air Intake 4) Dyno Tune

 

[MazdaSpeeder00]

If I had a brand new Mazdaspeed and a few grand to spend I would get in order: 1) triple pillar pod (with spray paint to match the interior a pillar color) and add an autometer ultralite boost/egt/oil pressure gauge 2) iON Front Mount Intercooler 3) iON Turbo-Back Exhaust 3) iON Cold Air Intake 4) Dyno Tune

not flaming u or anything but what is the point in buying these guages if you dont buy a MBC??? Wow, you get to see the stuff on a guage now... its the same everyday... just my opinion. not tryin to be a jerk(wiggle)

 

[03MSP]

not flaming u or anything but what is the point in buying these guages if you dont buy a MBC??? Wow, you get to see the stuff on a guage now... its the same everyday... just my opinion. not tryin to be a jerk(wiggle)

It's just nice to know what's goin on. I have a boost gauge, but you can't yell at me, I have a MBC so I'm allowed to have one (wiggle)