What have you done to your MSP today?

I thought the wings west hood had the lil fake side vent things.

but i do plan on getting hood pins, but not the medal post ones, the ones that are the oval shaped taps

but i do have the NRG hood prop kit

but i was sitting at a BK drive thru and he just drove up next to me and asked if i wanted to buy a hood... he said 30 bucks and i said hell ya lol
Wasnt going to let that deal go.



Thanks, im still in shock that i was able to get a nice hood, not cracked for only 30 bucks and then all that other stuff for another 30 bucks.

well if it is stolen goods, sure did a good job at taking it off the car lol, all that's kinda hard to get off and boxed up and stuff without breaking/scraping something, unless he took it from someone elses garage.. either way it was a good deal, im so jealous haha, I want another hood, don't know why, but with that deal i'd take it in a sec.

but anyways some of the West Wing Evo hoods do have those side vents, I think the older versions are the ones that don't but Chris (slug420) bought the hood I have on my car now, and that's what he posted on his sale thread, he was pretty good at keeping everything documented and keeping the old stuff.. but here
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123722803
don't try taking his idea and clear coating mica on there! haha, I like the originality of mine

oh and also I've been pretty good at not needing the hood pins, but they couldn't hurt, I hear that other people have a little rattle and stuff on their hoods, those hoods are really well constructed and since the latch part is bolted in there (I think a lot of others are just glued) it's really sturdy, I don't have any rattle/movement in the hood when it's latched, you'll just have to dremmel out a little bit around the latch so it fits correctly, I don't have a pic of it, but if you notice when you close the hood that you need to kinda force it down, just dremmel out the hole more so the point section on the hood latch can fit correctly, if you have the same problem, but maybe not...
 
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I cant get the prosport oil sandwhich plate to fit on my msp.

As MSP projects go, this one really isn't that tough.

1. Drain oil and remove filter
2. Remove 27mm nut holding on oil cooler (need deep socket; 27mm or
1&1/16)
3. Remove threaded pipe that filter threads on to.
4. Cut approx 3/4" off of threaded pipe
5. Re-install threaded pipe (I put the cut end up, away from filter)
6. Slide oil cooler and sandwich plate onto threaded pipe
7. Tighten 27mm nut to spec using deep socket
8. Install new oil filter
9. Add 3.9 qts of your favorite oil
10. Have a cold beverage and pat yourself on the back...(wink)
 
As MSP projects go, this one really isn't that tough.

1. Drain oil and remove filter
2. Remove 27mm nut holding on oil cooler (need deep socket; 27mm or
1&1/16)
3. Remove threaded pipe that filter threads on to.
4. Cut approx 3/4" off of threaded pipe
5. Re-install threaded pipe (I put the cut end up, away from filter)
6. Slide oil cooler and sandwich plate onto threaded pipe
7. Tighten 27mm nut to spec using deep socket
8. Install new oil filter
9. Add 3.9 qts of your favorite oil
10. Have a cold beverage and pat yourself on the back...(wink)

Just like I told you keith! lol. You can get under my car and look if you want one day haha, or next time you do your oil I'll help or take a look. Like I said I didn't have to take out my stud b/c the non turbo protege's have smaller studs.<---haha that's funny
 
she's at the shop now getn the jpipe bung out and wideband set up in.... any1 by chance purchased the "downpipe" set up for the msp on ebay?. seller from CA.
 
she's at the shop now getn the jpipe bung out and wideband set up in.... any1 by chance purchased the "downpipe" set up for the msp on ebay?. seller from CA.

No, I just lost an auction for some Work Emotion lug nuts tho. I went out to lunch, came back and my bid was leap frogged from $40 to $86. My max bid was set @ $50. Those lugs were slick. Brand new are less then $150 tho, not dropping $100 on used ones....
 
See its fits for me, But as you see the first pic is it installed.

Second is how I was able to, I just screwed it on the filter and put it on (which doesnt need tobe done could just tighten over the stud for the oil filter, but then that leaves to slack (picture 3) But when the oil filter goes over it it tightens it down to how pic one is. And the last pic just show how far off it is from being 100% tight. But It does fit. just when you put it on it wont be tight till you have the filter on.
 

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heres a vid of the difference in the nozzles





and here (finally) a sound clip of my apexi n1 with no cats or resonators

 
Drained transaxle oil and filled with fresh Mobil1 75W90. Tightened up the alternator bolts and tensioner bolt to eliminate belt squeal.
 
today, I found and had read the damn P0171 code... instead of tuning the car a little like I was planning to.. more fun to figure out now..
 
just went for a short drive in my msp. had a little fun, even boosted in 1st, which i never do. i missed driving it. love that turkey
 
well if it is stolen goods, sure did a good job at taking it off the car lol, all that's kinda hard to get off and boxed up and stuff without breaking/scraping something, unless he took it from someone elses garage.. either way it was a good deal, im so jealous haha, I want another hood, don't know why, but with that deal i'd take it in a sec.

but anyways some of the West Wing Evo hoods do have those side vents, I think the older versions are the ones that don't but Chris (slug420) bought the hood I have on my car now, and that's what he posted on his sale thread, he was pretty good at keeping everything documented and keeping the old stuff.. but here
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123722803
don't try taking his idea and clear coating mica on there! haha, I like the originality of mine

oh and also I've been pretty good at not needing the hood pins, but they couldn't hurt, I hear that other people have a little rattle and stuff on their hoods, those hoods are really well constructed and since the latch part is bolted in there (I think a lot of others are just glued) it's really sturdy, I don't have any rattle/movement in the hood when it's latched, you'll just have to dremmel out a little bit around the latch so it fits correctly, I don't have a pic of it, but if you notice when you close the hood that you need to kinda force it down, just dremmel out the hole more so the point section on the hood latch can fit correctly, if you have the same problem, but maybe not...

thanks for the info, ill have to try that dremmel trick, i did notice that it was hard to close so i just got pissed and slammed...... and it worked haha

but actually i was already thinking of doing the flake thing with the clear lol, but i think im going to save that for the reverse cowl induction hood.
 
ahh, you bastard! lol, but ya that's what Chris had to do before I bought the car, and told me about it, so I just dremmeled it out on the right side a little bit.. also so you know if you do the flake clear, it looks green... lol might wanna try some orange there haha
 
i found a site that offers the spicy color

the stages come all divided up, since i need to redo a few things in orange i was going to pretty much make almost a orange tint to the clear. Nothing crazy just a subtle spicy tinted clear.
 
Cyclops - http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123615506&highlight=oil+pressure+gauge
Got the fittings and tapped off the dummy oil light plug on the back of the block. I havent noticed any oil leakage. But i just installed it last weekend. So im going to push the msp this weekend and see if the fittings hold up.

Outlaw - hmm. Thats interesting. I guess i should have kept the sandwich plate and tried that. Good to see it worked out for you.
 
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Just put in a price request for the following items on an ebay seller just to see how it compares to silicone intakes price. Then maybe tomorrow ill see about getting a new bumper cover or rigging the one I have as well as getting a new hot pipe made if I have time. -1 million for previous owners shortcuts.

1 x Silicone Reducer, 2.25" to 2.0"
1 x 2.25" Silicone Straight Coupler,
1 x 2.5" Silicone Straight Coupler,
3 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.25"
1 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.0"


BTW, Anyone looking for replacement couplers for the Perrin FMIC setup.
2 - 2.5" straight - cold pipe
1 - 2.25" straight - intercooler end of hot pipe
1 - 2.25"-2" reducer - turbo end of the hot pipe.


Edit: $15 cheaper shipped for the parts list via ebay for 4ply couplers and the above parts compared to silicone intakes price.
 
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still no luck with my xc hood. Haven't heard from them in over a week. I think my best plan of attack would be to have them send me a new latch without any holes drilled in it. That way I can get the latch where it needs to be then drill the holes to line up with the previously drilled holes from the off-centered latch so I don't make the hood any weaker. Now just waiting to hear back on the new hood latch possiblity.


Just heard back, gonna send me a new latch and some rivits too!
 
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Cyclops - http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123615506&highlight=oil+pressure+gauge
Got the fittings and tapped off the dummy oil light plug on the back of the block. I havent noticed any oil leakage. But i just installed it last weekend. So im going to push the msp this weekend and see if the fittings hold up.

Outlaw - hmm. Thats interesting. I guess i should have kept the sandwich plate and tried that. Good to see it worked out for you.

Yeah I was just mainly messing around trying to see why It didn't fit, then BAM! It went on hahaha.
 
See its fits for me, But as you see the first pic is it installed.

Second is how I was able to, I just screwed it on the filter and put it on (which doesnt need tobe done could just tighten over the stud for the oil filter, but then that leaves to slack (picture 3) But when the oil filter goes over it it tightens it down to how pic one is. And the last pic just show how far off it is from being 100% tight. But It does fit. just when you put it on it wont be tight till you have the filter on.

I don't want to be the bad news guy, but I would be willing to bet that you will end up leaking oil doing it this way. The sandwich plate really needs to be secured to the cooler tightly before putting on the oil filter or oil is going to seep out under pressure (when the engine is running). I know this because when I first put mine on, even after cutting the threaded pipe so the plate flushed up tightly to the cooler, I didn't have a deep enough socket to tighten the nut down well and the leaking got progressively worse as it continued to loosen. I ended up buying the correct socket and taking it all back apart to tighten everything down correctly. Now I have no leaks, the oil pressure sensor sends a steady signal, and everything works well.
 

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