What have you done to your CX-90 today?
- Thread starter Antoine
- Start date
here it is, the thinkware U3000 with 15% for front and rear tint (including oem tint) and 5% At the C piller and back glass.
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- CX9, Signature 2017
I am looking to mount my Escort Redline 360 c. How did you power the thinkware? Did you tap off two lines in the rear view mirror assembly? If so which wires? Thanks.
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Which fuse did you tap into at the fuse box? I haven’t been able to locate a fuse box diagram to ensure I tap into a fuse that’s non critical (ex. dome light). Or did you just tap into any fuse that’s hot with the ignition off?
I am not even sure myself as all i did was tested the fuse and tap in to it with an 15amp fuse. as long as it is connected correctly it shouldn't interfere with the other component as your just using a wire that is connected to your positive battery terminal. ill take a picture of mine once i get a chance and post it up. i have an external backup battery and for that the wiring is abit different if you were to hard wire without a external battery.
Yeah I found the same when I tested for hot fuses. There are a cluster of 15 amp fuses that stay hot when the car is powered down and I could use my fuse tap for any of them. Even though the fuse taps are legit and shouldn’t cause any issues, just wanted to play it extra safe and tap into a fuse for the dome light and not the power door locks.
I didn’t plan on going for an external backup battery but it sounds interesting. What’s the use case for that? Is that also for your dash cam to use when you hit the voltage cutoff in parking mode?
The reason was because even when i have set my dashcam cutoff voltage. I notice my battery dead sooner which was about 3 and half year and had to get a replacement. there was also time that my battery would completely die and i wont be able to start the car. this happen on my 2017 cx5 when i got it new. i trade it in for this one and knew i had to get a backup battery to prevent some issue from happening but it could've been fix as this was from my old dashcam.
I have also fix my backup battery as it wasn't holding anymore charge. the battery that it uses is the 3.2v 18650 1500mah and there is about 16 total. i took it all apart and tested it and found that there was 3 dead and 2 couldnt go higher then 2.2v. i got it the 5 cell for about 20 bucks and it is back working properly again.
here is the picture of the kickpanel that i have set up. the ground is access by removing the whole panel cover.
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I understand but once it is connected the right way and ensure that your getting power base on the fuse tap kit as it should only receive voltage from one side as both of the other side is split. once goes to the ACC out and the other goes to the fuse box. it shouldnt jump to the other side unless you send voltage from your ACC line going back in the fuse box which shouldnt happen as the dashcam on need to read it being on to remove it out of park mode.
here is how it should be connected just in case. The F770 is my first dashcam that was hard wire with a cutoff of 12.3 and still has problems. After that, i got the backup battery and change the dashcam to the u1000 and never once i got a problem but the backup battery dead in 4 years but got it fix with a few replacement cell and upgrade the u1000 to the new u3000 using radar sensors which is very helpful as there was alot of claim on my cx5 due to a few hit and run. i got their plate and turn it in to the police with the footage which i think i still have. they were able to track the person down and send me their insurance which they took full responsibility but still didn't like that my car had to go through the repair.
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Wow this is some great information. Keep us posted on how things perform with both the fuse tap and the battery backup. Those 18650 packs are a pain to maintain, especially if the para-series configuration is complicated. You obviously know what you’re doing with that, great job on the repair.
I have several types of fuse taps based on the fuse type for the specific vehicle. I’ll provide an update once I do my hardwire install using the same 15 amp fuse location you used, although I may test it on one of the “always hot” 10 amp locations on the bottom left. I’m not sure if my cam relies on voltage (running vs acc/off voltage) or the acc switch to go from parking to regular recording mode. My wiring hardness actually has options for battery voltage cutoff. I’ll set it for 12.2v just to be conservative.
Thanks for the update!
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so the back up battery connect to all 3 wires with is const, acc and ground. i only need to connect the acc and ground to recharge the battery when i drive the car. with the radar sensor on my car and left parking for about 12 hours. it only took about 5 to 10 percent of the battery and get fully recharged after a 25min drive to work. As for you case where your wiring all 3 it seems. use any of the blank fus slot and make sure which side it is coming in from and you only need to place a single fuse for your dash cam and not have it connected. the fuse slot could be another feature they dont want to turn on but has it connected without a fuse. i wish they release the diagram but couldnt located anywhere to see why they left alot of blank slot without a fuse on it. they left a few on the acc side that is not even wired which is why i had to tap in to another one.
Gotcha. I totally forgot I need to tap both a hot slot and an acc slot for parking mode to work correctly. So I’ll use the 15 amp acc slot you noted in your picture, and a blank hot slot without the extra fuse in the tap. Glad those slots are still hot, but I am curious as to why they left the blank acc slots unconnected but left the hot slots connected.
Probably also why they never released a wiring diagram…could be enabling new features in the future and don’t want them known yet. Who knows. I did send an email to Mazda corporate to see if they could provide the kick panel diagram but I haven’t gotten a response yet.
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@AceNinja Thanks for all the guidance on the kick panel. Got everything wired up and it’s been running steady without any issues since the install 2 weeks ago. Set the voltage cutoff at 12.2 volts and that’s enough parking mode run time for now. You were right about the standard fuse tap being a little loose in that ACC switched spot but it’s secure enough where it doesn’t fall out on its own. 
By the way I did hear back from Mazda Canada about the fuse diagram. Their response was less than desired. They basically said they didn’t release the diagram because they don’t want to the customer to damage anything. Which is BS in my opinion. My reply was pretty direct and to the point, let’s see if they respond to that.
By the way I did hear back from Mazda Canada about the fuse diagram. Their response was less than desired. They basically said they didn’t release the diagram because they don’t want to the customer to damage anything. Which is BS in my opinion. My reply was pretty direct and to the point, let’s see if they respond to that.
Glad I am able to help and I hope we can get that diagram as it will be very useful.
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So, I finally was able to put in the roof rack and in my opinion. I think the only part that is good is the rail itself as everything else is plastic. also the screw stick out a bit once fully mounted in place due to the roof rail gap is small.
Tips: Assemble all the mounting brackets and lower rubber seal "should be 85mm long both front and back" with the rail attach as it will make it a lot easier to lock in place but before locking it in place, make sure to center the rack. To center the rack, Push it away on the end that has the must as pulling it towards you is to impossible. best method to measure both side and add up the total on both ends than split the number in half. The half should be one side and use a pencil to mark your line. best to use the mounting bracket top tip.
If anyone has any question, feel free to ask and I will try to answer it. I will looking around to see if there are better built rack that doesn't contain so much plastic as I don't trust it due to it being outside of the car. I wish it uses more metal or aluminum all around.
Tips: Assemble all the mounting brackets and lower rubber seal "should be 85mm long both front and back" with the rail attach as it will make it a lot easier to lock in place but before locking it in place, make sure to center the rack. To center the rack, Push it away on the end that has the must as pulling it towards you is to impossible. best method to measure both side and add up the total on both ends than split the number in half. The half should be one side and use a pencil to mark your line. best to use the mounting bracket top tip.
If anyone has any question, feel free to ask and I will try to answer it. I will looking around to see if there are better built rack that doesn't contain so much plastic as I don't trust it due to it being outside of the car. I wish it uses more metal or aluminum all around.
