water temp gauge sensor placing.
- Thread starter FL_PR5
- Start date
hmmm. not familiar with the MP3 setup. that looks like the stock sensor on a T on one of your hoses. where did you get your T and what exact hose is that?
this is a pic of what the setup would be if i got the greddy T:
i'm not sure what that diameter of the main radiator hose is. i think its 34mm so i would get a 34mm T?
this is a pic of what the setup would be if i got the greddy T:
i'm not sure what that diameter of the main radiator hose is. i think its 34mm so i would get a 34mm T?
actually, in your picture the red circle is around the ignition capacitor... the water temp sensor is right behind it. The MP3 has the same setup as everything else. You are seeing in my picture what I did with a different water temp sensor (I have 3 of them no my car). But is what I was suggesting for you to do. The OD of what I put in there is the 17mm/.68" is a 3/8" pipe thread size... so if you go to Home Depot or the like and buy one 3/8"NPT 4" brass pipe and cut that in half, then buy one 3/8" NPT T fitting, you can screw the pipes into each end of the T, and then use one of the autometer adapters to screw into the open spot on the T and screw your sensor in and you'd be all done for about a total cost of 4 dollars and it'd be just like I showed you. Otherwise you can indeed do what you are saying there and put the greddy adapter up in the upper radiator hose... it's completely up to you..
well i like that idea since it's cheaper. i couldn't really understand all of what you were typing. prolly because it was so early (eyeballs) OD? and cut the brass pipe in half? do i go to home depot but a 3/8" thread size brass tube thats 4" long and then screw my sensor into it or does home depot just carry the T itself? sorta confused on that.
You need to buy the following at Home depot:
1 - 4" 3/8" NPT brass pipe
1- 3/8" NPT T fitting
You'll take that brass pipe and cut it in half to make two 2" sections that will then screw into the T fitting. That leaves one open spot on the T fitting. The gauge should have come with some adapter fittings and one of those should be a 3/8"NPT to 1/8"NPT adapter which will make it so that when you screw that into the T fitting, you can then screw the sensor into that adapter, and you'll be all sealed up the way you should be.
That make sense?
1 - 4" 3/8" NPT brass pipe
1- 3/8" NPT T fitting
You'll take that brass pipe and cut it in half to make two 2" sections that will then screw into the T fitting. That leaves one open spot on the T fitting. The gauge should have come with some adapter fittings and one of those should be a 3/8"NPT to 1/8"NPT adapter which will make it so that when you screw that into the T fitting, you can then screw the sensor into that adapter, and you'll be all sealed up the way you should be.
That make sense?
So roughly like this:
1/2 pipe ----- T Fitting ---- 1/2 pipe
|
3/8" to 1/8"NPT Adapter
|
sensor
1/2 pipe ----- T Fitting ---- 1/2 pipe
|
3/8" to 1/8"NPT Adapter
|
sensor
And I am assuming that your sensor is 1/8" NPT which is what autometer uses for their senders etc... 1/8-27 NPT is the threading.
ok i went to home depot and got the stuff. wasn't a problem. here's the pix of them.
thats the it with a the sensor in it.
now i just need to verify the hose. i'll take a pic of the one i think it is and you can let me know before i start cutting into it (wow)
thats the it with a the sensor in it.
now i just need to verify the hose. i'll take a pic of the one i think it is and you can let me know before i start cutting into it (wow)
ok heres the hose question photos. i couldn't figure out which one it is out of the 3. so heres the pics to clarify my question:
in this pic is it the red one or the yellow? this is a side shot by the CAI. the red one comes straight down by the electrical wires. and the yellow is a hose that comes out of the back or goes into the back. it's the top hose that leads out/in the block.
here's another angle:
i used the same colors but just different angles for the hoses so you could see them better. both pics are on the side by the CAI. the yellow one is the top hose that leads out the back and is the only one i thought could be it. the hose highlited in red is too skinny for the brass T but the yellow fits just right by what i can tell. but the pink one is the fat hose on the bottom bellow the yellow. i dont think i cut into that hose from what i can tell. but if you can clarify what hose it is then i will be done and ready to install. thanks man.
in this pic is it the red one or the yellow? this is a side shot by the CAI. the red one comes straight down by the electrical wires. and the yellow is a hose that comes out of the back or goes into the back. it's the top hose that leads out/in the block.
here's another angle:
i used the same colors but just different angles for the hoses so you could see them better. both pics are on the side by the CAI. the yellow one is the top hose that leads out the back and is the only one i thought could be it. the hose highlited in red is too skinny for the brass T but the yellow fits just right by what i can tell. but the pink one is the fat hose on the bottom bellow the yellow. i dont think i cut into that hose from what i can tell. but if you can clarify what hose it is then i will be done and ready to install. thanks man.
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- MP5T / 944
FL_PR5 said:
Just disconect it from the rad and heater core, remove the bolts that hold the water manifold on and get it drilled out like was suggested. if not you will contaminate the lines with Aluminium shavings. I really do not know why you all care so much about water. Yes the stock indicator lacks, but it works fine.
No matter what you do, you will have to disconnect something from the coolant path, so you might as well take the 3 or 4 bolts off the housing that holds the stock coolant sensor and remove it. Then take it to a bench, drill a hole in it and tap it with the correct tap. I did mine right next to the stock sensor this way and it works great. Definatly a cheap way to go, not to mention the right way to do it. You don't worry about shaving's because it is not on the motor when you drill and tap it. You can clean it up before you put it back on and you will have no problems. Screw that ghetto rigging, you then have more clamps to worry about leaking.
well i wouldn't mind doing that. i would love to. but as i expressed before i dont want to mess it up. i don't own a tap, never used a tap, and don't know the exact science of screwing it in. all i know is you push and twist to make threads. i'm still learning how to work on cars and i just dont want to experiment with this exact part of it. in my eyes i am better off doing it this way and will be able to get the same readings, if not exact but in the same area.
brian- i got a water temp gauge since i drive my car a lot in our traffic in this nice hot florida summer sun and my friends just blew his radiator some how. so i'd rather play it safe and know before hand if my car gets too hot that way i can let it cool down if i have to. just what i put together in my head. it will make me feel better in my head, might seem odd to you but not to me. you know those purchases you just have to have that dont make sense to anybody else but you just have to have it, like a compulsion almost. that's how i feel about it. odd ain't it.
brian- i got a water temp gauge since i drive my car a lot in our traffic in this nice hot florida summer sun and my friends just blew his radiator some how. so i'd rather play it safe and know before hand if my car gets too hot that way i can let it cool down if i have to. just what i put together in my head. it will make me feel better in my head, might seem odd to you but not to me. you know those purchases you just have to have that dont make sense to anybody else but you just have to have it, like a compulsion almost. that's how i feel about it. odd ain't it.
cut it to allow for positioning? - i was going to cut the hose about where you have it. put in the T, clamp it down and run the wire through the fire wall to gauge. and quick question on the wire. did you use 18 gauge or 16? my friend gave me some 16 gauge with a automotive covering with 3 other wires in it. dosn't the wire go between the washer and bottom nut?
Yeah... what you said is correct on cutting the hose.. I was in a hurry and that was all.
the signal wire (which is positive) goes between the very top nut that screws off and whatever is below it... then remember you need to ground this whole assembly one way or another.
Later,
Steve
the signal wire (which is positive) goes between the very top nut that screws off and whatever is below it... then remember you need to ground this whole assembly one way or another.
Later,
Steve
yep, thanks man. i'm going to use the green wire for the grounding, since it's usually that color. for the ignition cable point i'm trying to decide what to tap into that always comes on when the car does. the only thing that i can think of is the cigarette lighter but thats not that close. hmm, come to think of it i need something to tap into for the light to come on also on the back of the gauge. maybe the cigarette lighter will also do well for that.
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TurfBurn, how did you ground the set up?
when I got my gauge, I tried just hooking it up, and leaving the sensor outside, when it grounded somewhere, the gauge just went to the max temp. like it would do that when I touched the head or any type of ground, is it supoused to do that??
when I got my gauge, I tried just hooking it up, and leaving the sensor outside, when it grounded somewhere, the gauge just went to the max temp. like it would do that when I touched the head or any type of ground, is it supoused to do that??
