The stealer sure wants a lot for all around brake work

I have a 2021 CX-5 at 36,000 and at the oil change they noted less than 20% remaining "red status" 4mm on the front and rear. I asked for a quote. Their "value" package with "cheaper quality parts" was $1,605 for all four wheels. 450 labor, 943 parts and for the premium parts (VPM pads and rotors) $2,655. Time to start calling around.
 
My Caramba!

I normally do it myself. You'd pay ~$100 per axle for good quality aftermarket parts from RockAuto.
 
Holy heck. I see you already found my post about this. I knew I was saving money but I mostly did it because I wanted to learn rather than rely on someone else and not coming away with the knowledge or tools. I never got a quote, I just dove into it.
 
Last edited:
I have a 2021 CX-5 at 36,000 and at the oil change they noted less than 20% remaining "red status" 4mm on the front and rear. I asked for a quote. Their "value" package with "cheaper quality parts" was $1,605 for all four wheels. 450 labor, 943 parts and for the premium parts (VPM pads and rotors) $2,655. Time to start calling around.
Sounds like the dealer, when quoting prices like this, is getting bolder as they assume people are getting stupider. At 36k miles I can't imagine it needing new rotors unless they are chewed up or have runout causing vibration. You may get by with just new pads/pad guides (clips) and lubeing the caliper pins and contact points with caliper grease.
Come to think of it, that's exactly what I did when replacing the rears at 37k miles. It was actually a bit premature because gauging the amount of remaining pad it could have gone another ~10k miles before factory minimum material thickness (2mm IIRC). But I never run them that low and change around 3-1/2-4.
**** regarding new pad material thickness ( disregarding dealer percentages) I've measured new pads at: front - 10 mm, rear - 7.5 mm. I do mostly "around town" and some suburban driving with lots of stops, and taking measurements over several brake changes have gauged pad wear to be about 7,000 to 8,000 miles per mm of pad wear for my type of driving. If the car "lives" on the interstate the pads would probably last > 100,000 miles.
 
Last edited:
This would be its first every brake job. I have no issues, braking is smooth. I mainly drive highway.
OK. Let me elaborate a little more. Regardless of the amount of highway driving your car does, let's look at the miles and wear. Putting aside the "red" condition as stated by the dealer, they show 4 mm remaining. If at 37,000 miles the amount of wear [ 7.5 mm (new thickness) minus 4 mm remaining] equals 3.5 mm pad wear. So, 37,000/3.5 equates to about 10,000 miles per mm. At this rate of wear it would give about 20,000 more miles until hitting the 2mm factory specified minimum.

This is if 4mm truly remains, but then again dealers have been known to take "liberties" and more pad than 4 mm may be remaining. The best way is to measure it yourself.

Finally, as I mentioned in my post above, I don't wear pads (or shoes if drum brakes but thankfully those days are gone) down to factory minimum. I prefer a bit more braking material to remain for heat absorption if heavy braking is encountered.
 
Buy the OEM parts yourself and then go shopping around town for a shop. When I replaced the aft brake pads, Bought the pads myself from the dealer and then asked if they are willing to install them. I payed at my local Mazda dealer around 250 for labor.
 
I still have my 3k mile OEM pads in the garage, still at full thickness.
 
I've never had my pads wear front and back evenly. At least 2 front replacements for every rear.
That's not the normal way things are going these days. It's almost always the rears that need replacing first. This is due to the rear wheel brake bias built into modern cars. It is done to prevent nosediving when first hitting the brakes. You can google it and get a better understanding of why modern cars are set up this way. On my 2017 Mazda 6 (since sold), the rears gave out much sooner than the fronts.
 
That's not the normal way things are going these days. It's almost always the rears that need replacing first. This is due to the rear wheel brake bias built into modern cars. It is done to prevent nosediving when first hitting the brakes. You can google it and get a better understanding of why modern cars are set up this way. On my 2017 Mazda 6 (since sold), the rears gave out much sooner than the fronts.
My experience has been the same. Especially with a physically smaller pad that has less material thickness than the front pads.
 
That's not the normal way things are going these days. It's almost always the rears that need replacing first. This is due to the rear wheel brake bias built into modern cars. It is done to prevent nosediving when first hitting the brakes. You can google it and get a better understanding of why modern cars are set up this way. On my 2017 Mazda 6 (since sold), the rears gave out much sooner than the fronts.
I don't believe the brakes are biased toward the rear. If that were the case they would put the large front brakes on the rear.

Instead, the rear pads are simply undersized. They come from the factory about 1/2 the size vs the fronts.
 
Rear brakes wear faster because of their size, the non-vented rotors, and electronic brake distribution (EBD). EBD adds a rear brake bias that changes based on different factors.


It seems that Mazda and other manufacturers have tweaked their EBD systems to also help reduce nosedive when braking.
 
Last edited:
"Just do it yourself!" So tired of that every single time. hahaha Yea, we know it's SO easy... I have zero desire to do that.
Many of us simply aren't going to do it ourselves.

Why are you at a dealer?
 
I'm hoping that doing the rear discs will be a lot easier than rear drums, but the problems people have with the EPB concern me.
 
I'm hoping that doing the rear discs will be a lot easier than rear drums, but the problems people have with the EPB concern me.

As long as you put the EPB in service mode, rear brakes are just as easy as the front.
Not identical, but personally I would say way easier than drum brakes.
 
I'm hoping that doing the rear discs will be a lot easier than rear drums, but the problems people have with the EPB concern me.
Haha. As an older gentleman, I find drum brakes are a lot simpler and easier to do. I did them all the time on older cars.
I did my rear brakes on my 2017 Mazda 6 before I sold it, and they were a PITA.
Thankfully I was aware of the procedure to go into maintenance mode first, but they were still not fun. Maybe because I'm in Canada and I had rust to deal with.
 

New Threads

Back