Rear brake job price reasonable?

[Mazdiod2]

I know this is off topic, but I'd like to hear more about it. I know exactly what you mean. It's hard to even get an HVAC tech to actually diagnose and repair simple problems with an existing install when they just want to sell a new system. PM?

I got a vacuum pump, gauge set, digital torque wrench, plastic cover set, and some other supplies from AmAZON. I got some regular 'hard' plastic condensate drain and concrete locally.
There are a lot of youtubes on installation. I would look at all of them. I found at least one giving slightly erroneous info but there are good ones from pros. There are some videos of DIYers' installations and of course many of the vendors have them too.
I spent months preparing and obsessing and even deciding where to install in my house took a lot of time because I have a stucco house. (I ended up going out a wall into the soffit area and then out and down from there so I didn't have crack any stucco).
After installation it's important to check everything before you open the valve on the outside unit to release the gas because if something goes wrong after that you will probably have to call for service, although one DIYer completed the test and paperwork to get certification for the HVAC license for R410!
It works great though, and I hope it keeps working through this heat wave.

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[Buzzman12]

Maybe a little late to the party, but a few years ago, I got a quote for over $600 for rear brakes (Canadian). $500 seems pretty standard for dealer work.
Caution: If you decide to go to a shade tree mechanic, make sure they know about the EPB system and maintenance mode. This site is full of horror stories of DIY'ers or Indie shops ruining rear calipers because they didn't know what they were doing, and/or didn't bother doing some basic research before commencing.

 

[SBMongoos]

What is the minimum thickness for the OEM discs (rear) on this vehicle? I'm only eyeballing it but it isn't seem like it's that bad but I honestly don't know. Curious of the front as well.

 

[sm1ke]

I tried to Google-Fu the answer, but could not find anything definitive regarding an actual minimum thickness. That said, everywhere I looked says that the minimum thickness for a brake rotor can be found somewhere on the rotor surface, either on the outer edge or stamped on the rotor hat (near the wheel studs).

 

[yrwei52]

What is the minimum thickness for the OEM discs (rear) on this vehicle? I'm only eyeballing it but it isn't seem like it's that bad but I honestly don't know. Curious of the front as well.

Already answered in post #22 earlier:

For 2016.5 CX-5, the minimum rear disk rotor thickness is 8.0 mm; and the minimum rear disk pad thickness is 2.0 mm.

For front, it’s 26.0 mm for rotors and 2.0 mm for pads.



This isn’t true. The rear pads and rotors are the same whether or not you have the EPB or not. There’re rear OEM MV pads and rotors available.

Here is rear brake parts list for 2016 CX-5 from a EPB related TSB:

TSB No. 04-001/18: Noise from Rear Brakes Due to Brake Dragging

View attachment 329116

Here’s standard OEM rear disk pads KAY0-26-48ZA:
View attachment 329117

Here’s “value” OEM MV rear disk pads KAY0-26-48ZA-MV:
View attachment 329118

Here’s standard OEM rear disk rotor K011-26-251C:
View attachment 329119

Here’s “value” OEM rear disk rotor K011-26-251C-MV:
View attachment 329120



It’s possible due to the much higher price on labor and parts at dealerships nowadays. $210.78 for rear brake job without new rotors by @wlong01‘s dealer is pretty good price.



Yeh if you don’t have Brakes Plus near by, try to find an indy shop with good reputation and compare that is the way to go.

 

[murky]

What is the minimum thickness for the OEM discs (rear) on this vehicle? I'm only eyeballing it but it isn't seem like it's that bad but I honestly don't know. Curious of the front as well.

We're talking 1 or 2 mm less than new, and that's the allowable thickness AFTER turning them. It will be difficult to eyeball.

 

[SBMongoos]

Lots of options. Starting to wonder here. My regular dealership seems to have the best price and even so over Brakes Plus. Which is close. Neighbor of mine has the tools and we can get the space. But I'm wondering where the rotors are actually at as the dealership didn't say. Although when I had the transmission serviced at a local biz he brought up rotors and pads himself back in January and noted I'd probably want to get them done...about now. The pads, as I mentioned, are currently at 3mm.

My Mazda dealership, again $509, would be OEM pads and rotors. Necessary brake hardware for both pads (whatever that would be) and lubricate the brake caliper slide pins, test drive.

If I were to do these myself, with help from someone who has experience, sounds like I'd need to purchase just the rotors and pads and . I could order online and save more I would think. Probably go Akebono for both or simply just order the Mazda OEM. This gets a little vague about brands with either their value or OEM as they aren't certain where they are coming from it seems. Or just go Akebono?

However, I see the posted TSB: TSB No. 04-001/18: Noise from Rear Brakes Due to Brake Dragging. But I've had no brake issues. With this in mind I'm a bit confused about doing this brake job myself.

 

[SBMongoos]

Surely they mean your pads are at 3mm. No way the rotors are 3mm thick, that's a little over 1/10th of an inch.

Correct. Not sure where the discs are at other than they claim minimum.

 

[N7turbo]

If I were to do these myself, with help from someone who has experience, sounds like I'd need to purchase just the rotors and pads and . I could order online and save more I would think. Probably go Akebono for both or simply just order the Mazda OEM. This gets a little vague about brands with either their value or OEM as they aren't certain where they are coming from it seems. Or just go Akebono?

I just did brakes for the first time myself. I followed these videos, which were really good. They will help you see what's involved. Most of my issues were getting everything I needed to do the job. Once you get one done, the other 3 will be much faster. Note: if you have the CX-5 Turbo, follow a CX-9 front brake video.

I found the caliper hangers from Craftsman at Lowes for $10 and the piston compressor tool at Harbor Freight for $8. I got an 800 Lumen Rechargeable Swivel Work Light from Husky at Home Depot for $25 which I highly recommend. You can pick up the Anti Seize at any auto parts store, around $11. If you don't have 1/2" impact sockets in metric, I found Advance Auto sells a Diehard set for $25 which is very competitive vs others. You'll want a lug nut socket in 21mm, I got a set of 17, 19, 21mm with spinning nylon anti-scratch sleeves from Amazon for $25. I made a torque wrench using a 1/2" drive 25" Pittsburgh breaker bar for $21 and a Quinn digital torque adapter for $50. I am using BESTOOL tripod jack stands which are very well built, in fact they may even be a rebranded copy of the best on the market. Optionally you can make wheel lugs easier by getting a 1/2" drive impact wrench. I am using the DeWalt 12v Max as I have an assortment of those tools and batteries already.

 

[Mazdiod2]

However, I see the posted TSB: TSB No. 04-001/18: Noise from Rear Brakes Due to Brake Dragging. But I've had no brake issues. With this in mind I'm a bit confused about doing this brake job myself.

The big issue a lot of people have is with the EPB so make sure your aren't confused about that. Otherwise just replacing the pads and maybe a little cleanup and lubing the guide pins is pretty easy. I've always done my own (infrequent) brake jobs but never changed the rotors, although it doesn't look too hard either.

What seems to mess people up is disabling the EPB system. Apparently if it gets out of wack you might as well buy new calipers.

 

[N7turbo]

What seems to mess people up is disabling the EPB system. Apparently if it gets out of wack you might as well buy new calipers.

Yes. Do not forget to put it into maintenance mode first, and do not take it back out of maintenance mode in the middle of the process with the calipers off! Yes, that has happened.

 

[yrwei52]

Yes. Do not forget to put it into maintenance mode first, and do not take it back out of maintenance mode in the middle of the process with the calipers off! Yes, that has happened.

And do not turn caliper piston like many other rear brakes while pushing it into caliper making the room, Just press it in with brake tool.

 

[Kedis82ZE8]

Just a reminder if any other '13-'15 owners are reading along... you do have to turn the calipers on the rears of those years

 

[yrwei52]

Lots of options. Starting to wonder here. My regular dealership seems to have the best price and even so over Brakes Plus. Which is close.

Just called my local Brakes Plus and the quote is $219 for rear brakes for 2016.5 CX-5. It includes life-time “premium” pads, turning rotors, and all the lubes. Full brake fluid flush is additional $79. You can find money-saving coupons at their website for veterans、women and seniors, sometimes the brake job and alignment.

Neighbor of mine has the tools and we can get the space. But I'm wondering where the rotors are actually at as the dealership didn't say. Although when I had the transmission serviced at a local biz he brought up rotors and pads himself back in January and noted I'd probably want to get them done...about now. The pads, as I mentioned, are currently at 3mm.

Most of time the disk rotors from factory can be turned 2 ~ 3 times on most Japanese cars like Honda、Toyota、Mazda. On the other hands European cars likes VW、BMW the factory rotors won’t survive one round of pad life and always need to be replaced due to the rotor being thinner than the minimum thickness requirement. If this’s your first rear brake job, your rear rotors should be able to turned to save some money. I always turn my rotors if the thickness still allows. But it cost $30 each nowadays (used to be $10) and many auto parts stores such as AutoZone is no longer doing this anymore. A cheap rotor costs around $50 each, but that’s something I wouldn’t try.

My Mazda dealership, again $509, would be OEM pads and rotors. Necessary brake hardware for both pads (whatever that would be) and lubricate the brake caliper slide pins, test drive.

With todays’s high price on everything, $509 with a pair of new OEM “standard” pads and rotors, that doesn’t seems too outrageous right now. 2 new Mazda OEM standard rotors alone would be $200. Just make sure they don’t use OEM “Value” pads and rotors that would cut their parts cost to the half! Ask them to keep packaging or boxes of all non-value OEM parts for you to verify.

If I were to do these myself, with help from someone who has experience, sounds like I'd need to purchase just the rotors and pads and . I could order online and save more I would think. Probably go Akebono for both or simply just order the Mazda OEM. This gets a little vague about brands with either their value or OEM as they aren't certain where they are coming from it seems. Or just go Akebono?

Identify the OEM “Value” parts is easy, they always have “-MV” ending on part number.

Whether or not you want DIY it’s your call. I like DIY mainly isn’t to save money, but to make sure the quality parts and workmanship been put in the job by myself. Although they’re more expensive, I like to use OEM parts as they’re designed for the particular car and will be the best fit, and usually come with the best quality.

However, I see the posted TSB: TSB No. 04-001/18: Noise from Rear Brakes Due to Brake Dragging. But I've had no brake issues. With this in mind I'm a bit confused about doing this brake job myself.

The caliper problem with EPB on the TSB shouldn’t affect the intention of DIY brake job as it’s a separate issue. Your 2016.5 CX-5 is in borderline on this inferior rear brake calipers with EPB. If the lot number / date code on the caliper is after 9/7/2016, you have the updated caliper. If this’s your first rear brake pad replacement, your rear calipers may be fine without dragging problem otherwise your pads won’t be evenly worn and lasted this long at 85K miles. But make sure to check the lot number according to the TSB.

 

[Jmaz]

Just a reminder if any other '13-'15 owners are reading along... you do have to turn the calipers on the rears of those years

Absolutely correct. I used one of these kits with both the L/H and R/H rewind tools. Paid about ~$20 for it maybe 7 years ago. Ebay is full of them at prices that are 1/2 or less than auto parts stores and as pictured they include both tools and many adapters. Those "cube" shaped piston rewind adapters things from auto parts stores are basically worthless as the little nubs break off. Here's one example.

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

22Pc kits rotates piston back into caliper for fitting of new brake shoes and pads. 22pcs Disc Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool Kit. Can be widely used on most car makes and models. This item is also suitable for below car model.

www.ebay.com

 

[yrwei52]

Absolutely correct. I used one of these kits with both the L/H and R/H rewind tools. Paid about ~$20 for it maybe 7 years ago. Ebay is full of them at prices that are 1/2 or less than auto parts stores and as pictured they include both tools and many adapters. Those "cube" shaped piston rewind adapters things from auto parts stores are basically worthless as the little nubs break off. Here's one example.

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

22Pc kits rotates piston back into caliper for fitting of new brake shoes and pads. 22pcs Disc Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool Kit. Can be widely used on most car makes and models. This item is also suitable for below car model.

www.ebay.com

Of course we can always “borrow” such brake tool set from any auto parts stores for free ⋯

 

[Jmaz]

Of course we can always “borrow” such brake tool set from any auto parts stores for free ⋯

And "of course" we can always drive to the auto parts store to find a greasy ,incomplete kit after standing in line. It's possible. Then down the road to the next AP store?
For those of us who don't practice extreme parsimony, a cheaply priced kit that's new condition, complete and always on hand is worth the price. I used my kit twice already so ~$20 saved me 4 trips to the AP store.
Now, if I lived ( or moved) next door to Autozone, the rental tools would be just a few steps away and I could do my oil changes and brake jobs in their parking lot along with the ricers and beaters.
This is starting to sound like heaven.

 

[yrwei52]

I have a complete brake tool set in a nice molded box and paid ~$70 many years ago for the rear brake job on my 2001.5 VW Passat GLX. Unfortunately when I needed it again for front and rear brakes on my 1998 Honda CR-V about 5 years ago, and rear brakes on my 2000 BMW 528i 6 months ago, I could never find the brake tool set again due to my poor filing system on my tools. I just loaned the “OEM” brake tool set from AutoZone thinking I wouldn’t pay the same tool I already have twice. Surprisingly the first brake tool set was brand new, but the second one was dirty like I expected.

 

[Jmaz]

I have a complete brake tool set in a nice molded box and paid ~$70 many years ago for the rear brake job on my 2001.5 VW Passat GLX. Unfortunately when I needed it again for front and rear brakes on my 1998 Honda CR-V about 5 years ago, and rear brakes on my 2000 BMW 528i 6 months ago, I could never find the brake tool set again due to my poor filing system on my tools. I just loaned the “OEM” brake tool set from AutoZone thinking I wouldn’t pay the same tool I already have twice. Surprisingly the first brake tool set was brand new, but the second one was dirty like I expected.

That makes sense. Hopefully you find your kit before it's needed again.

 

[madar]

I just did brakes for the first time myself. I followed these videos, which were really good. They will help you see what's involved. Most of my issues were getting everything I needed to do the job. Once you get one done, the other 3 will be much faster. Note: if you have the CX-5 Turbo, follow a CX-9 front brake video.

I found the caliper hangers from Craftsman at Lowes for $10 and the piston compressor tool at Harbor Freight for $8. I got an 800 Lumen Rechargeable Swivel Work Light from Husky at Home Depot for $25 which I highly recommend. You can pick up the Anti Seize at any auto parts store, around $11. If you don't have 1/2" impact sockets in metric, I found Advance Auto sells a Diehard set for $25 which is very competitive vs others. You'll want a lug nut socket in 21mm, I got a set of 17, 19, 21mm with spinning nylon anti-scratch sleeves from Amazon for $25. I made a torque wrench using a 1/2" drive 25" Pittsburgh breaker bar for $21 and a Quinn digital torque adapter for $50. I am using BESTOOL tripod jack stands which are very well built, in fact they may even be a rebranded copy of the best on the market. Optionally you can make wheel lugs easier by getting a 1/2" drive impact wrench. I am using the DeWalt 12v Max as I have an assortment of those tools and batteries already.

I see a lot of these DIY videos and they look marvelous right up to the point where they DON'T use a torque wrench!! Torque specs are there for a reason. Glad to see one was used.