2016 CX-5 GT Broken rear upper strut mount

Well, should have listened to this advice as while driving home from work the other day, ran over some ice and snow and the other side broke. Good thing I bought a pair of them and should always listen to internet advice....
You should only listen to GOOD internet advice ⋯

The problem is there’re too much information on the internet nowadays. Many times we still have to make our own decision with that much information available.

For your broken top mount problem on rear shocks that isn’t a “serious” problem to prevent you driving. Wait and see probably is still fine and just fix it whenever it breaks. And now you can replace those stabilizer links along with driver-side shock top mount.

Still want to thank you to post those comparison pictures on these shock top mounts! I have a 2016 CX-5 AWD too and your posts will help me to make a proper decision on how to fix the problem when it happens.
 
You should only listen to GOOD internet advice ⋯

The problem is there’re too much information on the internet nowadays. Many times we still have to make our own decision with that much information available.

For your broken top mount problem on rear shocks that isn’t a “serious” problem to prevent you driving. Wait and see probably is still fine and just fix it whenever it breaks. And now you can replace those stabilizer links along with driver-side shock top mount.

Still want to thank you to post those comparison pictures on these shock top mounts! I have a 2016 CX-5 AWD too and your posts will help me to make a proper decision on how to fix the problem when it happens.
"when it happens"--- what's to say it will happen to your 2016. The failed mounts I remember seeing were corroded from road salt. Can't imagine too much road salt where you live. My 2014's mounts looked good this past fall when I did the rear brakes and our roads get salted. I did however coat them liberally with a rust inhibitor when coating some of the front and rear suspension parts.
 
"when it happens"--- what's to say it will happen to your 2016. The failed mounts I remember seeing were corroded from road salt. Can't imagine too much road salt where you live. My 2014's mounts looked good this past fall when I did the rear brakes and our roads get salted. I did however coat them liberally with a rust inhibitor when coating some of the front and rear suspension parts.
IMO the rear upper shock mount is made of aluminum alloy and I don’t believe the broken mount is caused by “rust” as it isn’t supposed to, but rather by design flaw due to weakness. I hope it won’t happen to my 2016 CX-5 as I usually don’t overload my CX-5 as one mentioned he did and that’s why the mount cracked. I’ll keep watching these 2 rear shock top mounts, like the serpentine belt tensioner and the oil control valve, and consider these to be the weak points on my 2016 CX-5.
 
IMO the rear upper shock mount is made of aluminum alloy and I don’t believe the broken mount is caused by “rust” as it isn’t supposed to, but rather by design flaw due to weakness. I hope it won’t happen to my 2016 CX-5 as I usually don’t overload my CX-5 as one mentioned he did and that’s why the mount cracked. I’ll keep watching these 2 rear shock top mounts, like the serpentine belt tensioner and the oil control valve, and consider these to be the weak points on my 2016 CX-5.
I'm sure you guessed I meant corrosion rather than rust being that it's aluminum (wrong choice of words-- it is actually corrosion inhibitor) but you do have a good point about periodically checking it as I think it's a bit 'lightweight' in construction myself. I thought it might be more of a corrosion issue considering essentially no mention of failure from the high mileage owners who mention what parts they've replaced.
 
I'm sure you guessed I meant corrosion rather than rust being that it's aluminum (wrong choice of words-- it is actually corrosion inhibitor) but you do have a good point about periodically checking it as I think it's a bit 'lightweight' in construction myself. I thought it might be more of a corrosion issue considering essentially no mention of failure from the high mileage owners who mention what parts they've replaced.
Yes the broken rear aluminum shock top mount could be weakened by the corrosion from road salt but with so many diffrent revisions from OEM rear shocks I was hopping Mazda had beefed up the top mounts along the way after I saw reports on such problem from earlier ‘13 ~ ‘15 CX-5’s. Now I start to see the same problem on 2016’s and I certainly feel my 2016 CX-5 doesn’t immune to this problem no matter if it’s due to weak design or corrosion.

The same on the serpentine belt tensioner as there’re many revisions from OEM and I was hopping Mazda had improved the tensioner along the way. Unfortunately my tensioner couldn’t escape the problem and started to leak oil at ~42K miles.
 
You should only listen to GOOD internet advice ⋯

The problem is there’re too much information on the internet nowadays. Many times we still have to make our own decision with that much information available.

For your broken top mount problem on rear shocks that isn’t a “serious” problem to prevent you driving. Wait and see probably is still fine and just fix it whenever it breaks. And now you can replace those stabilizer links along with driver-side shock top mount.

Still want to thank you to post those comparison pictures on these shock top mounts! I have a 2016 CX-5 AWD too and your posts will help me to make a proper decision on how to fix the problem when it happens.
As you so rightly say, not a significant problem and, so far, these and the replacing of the rear calipers are the only issues I have had to deal with, so feel fairly fortunate (I only have 35000 km on the vehicle though).

I would be interested as well to see if they beef up these mounts as I would like to continue to use the vehicle to carry weight and I do not think the 800 lbs I am carrying once a year to be excessive when you think of how much a full rear seat of passengers would weigh.

I will focus on keeping the weight as forward as possible (I am carrying 20, 40 lb bags of wood pellets at a time and doing 5 trips to pick up the 2 tons I burn a year) and keep an eye out for improvements to the mounts that would still fit the '16.

Thanks again for all the help as this place and its super-users are a wealth of information....

Brad
 
You might also consider increasing the psi of your tires when carrying a full load. Even though the US manual says the tires should be at 34psi, in other countries Mazda says to increase the tire pressure to 38psi front, and 42psi rear, when at full load
 
As you so rightly say, not a significant problem and, so far, these and the replacing of the rear calipers are the only issues I have had to deal with, so feel fairly fortunate (I only have 35000 km on the vehicle though).

I would be interested as well to see if they beef up these mounts as I would like to continue to use the vehicle to carry weight and I do not think the 800 lbs I am carrying once a year to be excessive when you think of how much a full rear seat of passengers would weigh.

I will focus on keeping the weight as forward as possible (I am carrying 20, 40 lb bags of wood pellets at a time and doing 5 trips to pick up the 2 tons I burn a year) and keep an eye out for improvements to the mounts that would still fit the '16.

Thanks again for all the help as this place and its super-users are a wealth of information....

Brad
You can also follow the steps outlined by HBP in post #18 previously where he replaced the top mount with CX-3’s without removing the entire rear shock.
 
You can also follow the steps outlined by HBP in post #18 previously where he replaced the top mount with CX-3’s without removing the entire rear shock.
I had seen that but I think I will stick with what worked last as I would rather do my fiddling in a comfortable location as was able to bring the shock in to where it was warm to get it apart.
 
So, just did the other side and it took me ~5 hours (some of that time was switching from winters to summers) as I need to get a higher lifting jack and various other problems. Once again, the main issue was getting the stabilizer link off so that I could drop the control arm.

Doing it HBP's way in post #18 does make a lot of sense in that you have to remove a lot less and I would definitely try that first if had to do it again.

Somewhat fortunately, my youngest son just rolled his old '00 Honda CRV and so is going to buy a '15 Toyota Tacoma, so my days of packing wood pellets in the car should be over.
 
So, just did the other side and it took me ~5 hours (some of that time was switching from winters to summers) as I need to get a higher lifting jack and various other problems. Once again, the main issue was getting the stabilizer link off so that I could drop the control arm.

Doing it HBP's way in post #18 does make a lot of sense in that you have to remove a lot less and I would definitely try that first if had to do it again.

Somewhat fortunately, my youngest son just rolled his old '00 Honda CRV and so is going to buy a '15 Toyota Tacoma, so my days of packing wood pellets in the car should be over.
Thanks for the update.

I guess depending on the mileage and how long do I plan to keep the CX-5, I may just go ahead replacing the entire rear shocks with OEM’s (which come with the new top mount) with the same amount of work involved just to replace the top mount.
 
Thanks for the update.

I guess depending on the mileage and how long do I plan to keep the CX-5, I may just go ahead replacing the entire rear shocks with OEM’s (which come with the new top mount) with the same amount of work involved just to replace the top mount.
That would be a good idea and you would then have a spare set of mounts; with the proviso that the mount is actually beefed up though.

I decided to order front and rear stabilizer links and once I have them in hand I will update if I can determine the proper method of removal. Kudos to scarboro mazda again as they are wonderful to deal with especially for me who lives very far away from a dealership.
 
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That would be a good idea and you would then have a spare set of mounts; with the proviso that the mount is actually beefed up though.

I decided to order front and rear stabilizer links and once I have them in hand I will update if I can determine the proper method of removal. Kudos to scarboro mazda again as they are wonderful to deal with especially for me who lives very far away from a dealership.
Received the stabilizer links and a rear is pictured below:

IMG_0077.JPG

The way of removing them without damaging the boot, is to use a 5mm hex key in the end of the bolt (which you will have to use a pick to open as it likely be filled with dirt) to hold the bolt from turning and then remove the 14mm (if memory serves) nut holding it on.

This only matters if you are going to reuse the link as I have seen videos where they are installing new and they use either "parrot-beak' vise grips (you could likely make any set work) or they cut the "bolt" with a recip saw.
 
Could we please have an update on how the CX-3 mounts are holding up? Seems like the CX-3 mount is also missing the center reinforcement rib. Given the higher curb weight of the CX-5, not sure if it's more prone to failing with the ears snapping off. While it is fairly cheap, at CAD $120 for 2 mounts including shipping, it would not be the ideal trial and error or temporary fix. The aftermarket parts seem to always be out of stock.
 
Could we please have an update on how the CX-3 mounts are holding up? Seems like the CX-3 mount is also missing the center reinforcement rib. Given the higher curb weight of the CX-5, not sure if it's more prone to failing with the ears snapping off. While it is fairly cheap, at CAD $120 for 2 mounts including shipping, it would not be the ideal trial and error or temporary fix. The aftermarket parts seem to always be out of stock.
I believe the CX-3 rear shock top mount is a good alternative to replace the broken CX-5 top mount, although it used to be $30 not $60 each!

Or if your rear shocks are old enough, just get a pair of new OEM rear shocks which include the new top mount. Again, the price for OEM shocks now is $200+ a pair but they cost only under $100 a pair just a couple of years ago! Unfortunately we haven’t seen any aftermarket shocks comes with a new top mount.

First time I heard that there’s an aftermarket top mount available though.
 
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I believe the CX-3 rear shock top mount is a good alternative to replace the broken CX-5 top mount, although it used to be $30 no $60 each!

Or if your rear shocks are old enough, just get a pair of new OEM rear shocks which include the new top mount. Again, the price for OEM shocks now is $200+ a pair but they cost only under $100 a pair just a couple of years ago! Unfortunately we haven’t seen any aftermarket shocks comes with a new top mount.

First time I heard that there’s an aftermarket top mount available though.
Yeah, I had a look back in 2020, there was no aftermarket at the time. Back then the KYB SM5890 mount would only be listed for 2017+ but only revised I think less than a year ago maybe to fit the older generation. I think it was priced on RA for about 48-55 CAD each. But it's been out of stock forever.

Prices in Atlantic Canada are ridiculous. They quoted me $350 CAD per assembly at the dealer back in 2020. The cheapest now is getting it shipped from the US for $475 for a pair. Given it's 2014 with 230k kilometers and rusty as hell, I'll go with the CX-3 mounts to get back on the road and see how they hold up. CX-3 vs CX-5 Gen 2, $40 CAD vs $130 CAD. Wouldn't mind some KYB rear shocks in the future.

My mechanic could not get one of the shocks off even using a blow torch. They'll most likely have to be cut off when getting replaced.
 
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