Question about installing an aftermarket remote starter

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When installing an aftermarket remote start (being more specific Fortin Evo One) is it really necessary to remove negative battery connection before installation of cables of remote start under steering? My understanding is that when vehicle battery is disconnected all the things in memory like saved radio stations, memory seats, navigation routes that have been saved to favorites and so on will be erased. For reasons listed here if I can do install without disconnecting battery and save some time of reprogramming all the things that would be great.
 
Yeah in theory you can do it without disconnecting the battery negative. But accident does happen, so disconnecting the negative is a good idea. My experience from disconnecting battery negative while replacing the battery, is I lost only trip odometers and HomeLink® in addition to the required one-touch open / close driver power window reset. If you’re really concerned of losing some setups, get a memory saver while disconnecting the negative on battery.
 
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Yeah in theory you can do it without disconnecting the battery negative. But accident does happen, so disconnecting the negative is a good idea. My experience from disconnecting battery negative while replacing the battery, is I lost only trip odometers and HomeLink® in addition to the required one-touch open / close driver power window reset. If you’re really concerned of losing some setups, get a memory saver while disconnecting the negative on battery.
What accidents you are referring? Connection will be done when car is off, not even in accessory mode.
 
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No, NOT all connections are off when the car is stopped. Some remain live all the time. I would suggest you do as it says and disconnect the battery neg.
 
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What accidents you are referring? Connection will be done when car is off, not even in accessory mode.
Again, in theory every live wire should be protected with a fuse, and any accidental short should only blow a fuse. But some electronic module may not be protected properly due to the bad design in our CX-5. An example is when people was trying to put LED in rear cargo light for pre-2015 CX-5, but only found the expensive Rear Body Control Module (RBCM) was burned out afterwards since it’s not fuse protected!

What have you done to your CX-5 today?
 
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Again, in theory every live wire should be protected with a fuse, and any accidental short should only blow a fuse. But some electronic module may not be protected properly due to the bad design in our CX-5. An example is when people was trying to put LED in rear cargo light for pre-2015 CX-5, but only found the expensive Rear Body Control Module (RBCM) was burned out afterwards since it’s not fuse protected!

What have you done to your CX-5 today?
Is there any specific battery memory saver you recommend?
 
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Is there any specific battery memory saver you recommend?
I personally haven’t used any memory savers as I didn’t feel I have a need for it. Check reviews on Amazon, and do some search in the forum. I wouldn’t spend too much for it though.
 
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When installing an aftermarket remote start (being more specific Fortin Evo One) is it really necessary to remove negative battery connection before installation of cables of remote start under steering?
I have a good friend of mine who installs them professionally. He says that yes, you absolutely MUST remove the negative battery cable on Mazda's. He learned the hard way when he ignored that first step and burned out the remote start brain box. He says he's not sure exactly why Mazda's are different in that way, but he said that they are different indeed. So take the 30 seconds and just remove the cable.

As far as a memory back up, don't worry about it. So you have to reset the clock and radio stations. Who cares? It takes 3 minutes.
 
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I will agree here, blowing up expensive stuff is, well, expensive... I imagine shorting something and having a few air-bags blow, maybe one of the CPU's and letting the smoke out of a controller or two, just to keep the local station tuned in and the seat set to wifey position.
Mind you if it avoids wifely interrogations it may appear to be worth it, until it's not and you get the deeper interrogation because she smelled the apres-smoke.
 
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I personally haven’t used any memory savers as I didn’t feel I have a need for it. Check reviews on Amazon, and do some search in the forum. I wouldn’t spend too much for it though.
So you replaced cables without disconnecting main battery without any issues?
 
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I have a good friend of mine who installs them professionally. He says that yes, you absolutely MUST remove the negative battery cable on Mazda's. He learned the hard way when he ignored that first step and burned out the remote start brain box. He says he's not sure exactly why Mazda's are different in that way, but he said that they are different indeed. So take the 30 seconds and just remove the cable.

As far as a memory back up, don't worry about it. So you have to reset the clock and radio stations. Who cares? It takes 3 minutes.
Radio stations I agree should it be a problem but how do you reset locks and some other things that it may disrupt?
 
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It doesn't disrupt anything major. Just radio stations and auto windows (which you just have to drop all the way and raise all the way manually, to reset).

You are WAY overthinking this.
 
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So you replaced cables without disconnecting main battery without any issues?
I haven’t done much electrical add-on’s to my 2016 CX-5 other than LED replacement to all interior lights、rear license plate lights、and back-up lights. I didn’t disconnect negative on battery at the time as I’d been very careful replacing the rear liftgate (cargo) light as I fully aware the risk of hurting the RBCM even though Mazda had redesigned the wiring on my 2016 CX-5. The only time I disconnected the negative on battery was I have to replace the factory Panasonic battery last October after 5.6 years of service. As I mentioned before, I lost only trip odometers and HomeLink®. And I also did required one-touch open / close driver power window reset. All radio favorites and wife’s iPhone connection were still there and no need to re-programming, although I have not much been programmed in my infotainment. Of course YMMV.
 
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It doesn't disrupt anything major. Just radio stations and auto windows (which you just have to drop all the way and raise all the way manually, to reset).

You are WAY overthinking this.
I agree, although OP just tried to be careful. But if he wants to be careful, he should just go ahead disconnecting the negative on battery to prevent any surprises. Get a memory saver if he doesn’t want to have too much hassle to do re-programming. Even with memory saver, he still has to be careful not to short something as the memory saver is still providing some electricity.

Yes, the key is disconnecting negative on battery doesn't disrupt anything major.
 
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I haven’t done much electrical add-on’s to my 2016 CX-5 other than LED replacement to all interior lights、rear license plate lights、and back-up lights. I didn’t disconnect negative on battery at the time as I’d been very careful replacing the rear liftgate (cargo) light as I fully aware the risk of hurting the RBCM even though Mazda had redesigned the wiring on my 2016 CX-5. The only time I disconnected the negative on battery was I have to replace the factory Panasonic battery last October after 5.6 years of service. As I mentioned before, I lost only trip odometers and HomeLink®. And I also did required one-touch open / close driver power window reset. All radio favorites and wife’s iPhone connection were still there and no need to re-programming, although I have not much been programmed in my infotainment. Of course YMMV.
Cool, thanks
 
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So I was disconnecting my Fortin Evo one from my cx9 because I think it's causing my car to fail the emission test. I forgot to disconnect the battery before disconnecting the ignition wires and now it's giving me keyless fob malfunction and AFS malfunction.

I've disconnected the battery now and waiting for like an hour before I try to hook it up again and hopefully that will fix it...
 
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The EVO-ONE was causing all kinds of electrical issues in my car as well. Pulled it out, and everything went back to normal.

I have an appointment at Best Buy to have them install an iDataStart HC3. We'll see if that is any better.

I've used iDataLink stuff in the past, and it's always been absolutely top notch.
 
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The EVO-ONE was causing all kinds of electrical issues in my car as well. Pulled it out, and everything went back to normal.

I have an appointment at Best Buy to have them install an iDataStart HC3. We'll see if that is any better.

I've used iDataLink stuff in the past, and it's always been absolutely top notch.
Left the battery disconnected for an hour didn't work. Both keyfobs didn't work but car started fine by placing the keyfob next to the push button and drove fine despite the warnings. Went to AutoZone for a battery test and battery is in good condition since I just changed it last year. I was suspecting because I forgot the unplug my Bluetooth ODBII module and it drained battery over night but looks like not the case.

I'm confused as hell now. I'm going to make another thread to help me trouble shoot this. thanks.
 
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