The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working
- Thread starter THE Phen
- Start date
That.
I still wear sunglasses in the helmet, but it doesn't matter if they move or if I need to take them off - my vision is still there.
Fiji Mazda3
Member
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- 2014 Ford Focus ST
I'll one-up you. Guys that wear lens-less glasses.
sorry, i meant to imply that its a stupid ass trend regardless of gender haha
They creep me out. I tried them in high school and just wasn't hip to touching my eyeball and have them attached to my pupil all day. (I just just the heebee jeebees just thinking about contacts... haha)
Fiji Mazda3
Member
- :
- 2014 Ford Focus ST
I'm the same way. Most people don't understand it.
I have contacts. Sometimes when I take motorcycle rides I like to chill out for a bit hours away from home, ie shut my eyes and I've always been freaked out "sleeping" in contacts. That and if I have to be outside wearing sunblock the last thing I want is contacts AND sunblock in my eyes. I keep a spare pair of glasses with me in my car just in case... I'm super blind without glasses.
Touching my eye is no big deal to me haha
Touching my eye is no big deal to me haha
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
Yikes at that accident!
For those of you that track your cars, do you swap rotors along with pads before/after events? Only asking as my bro-in-law needs new front pads on his 05 Tribute but the rotors are in pretty good shape. So was thinking he might be able to save a few bucks and just swap new pads in without getting them machined? I did some web browsing earlier and have come up with arguments for both sides on why you shouldn't do it (possibly warp the rotors, ruin the new pads) and that it's ok to do. Figured I'd get some first hand experience from you guys/gals. If you don't change the rotors, would the bed-in practice be the same?
Thanks!
It isn't necessary to replace the rotors as long as they still meet the minimum thickness stamped on the edge of the rotor itself. The bed-in process would be determined by the pad that is going in. If no bed-in instructions are provided, I would assume that that process will happen over the course of normal driving (or at least that's what the manufacturer assumes).
But just to be on the safe side, you'll want to bring the pad up to it's optimum operating temperature through a series of medium to hard braking maneuvers (in a controlled environment of course), and then continue to use the brakes a few more times with medium stops to create that new transfer layer of material on the rotor.
Just to be on the safe side, whenever I change pad compounds I change the rotors as well. If I stick with the same pads, and they're easy on rotors, I'll run a couple sets of pads on them.
HAHA I love the meadows! In the winter, they have to close the road because it's too dangerous to plow the snow LOL. I want to try to convince the city to let me hold a racing event on that road and close it for a day. That road has some really technical turns, tons of elevation changes, and some fun blind corners haha. The only downside to that road is the abundance of deer. The deer in that area are pretty used to cars so they rarely jump out into the middle of the road luckily.
I finally got my new wheels/tires on last night! If it clears up, I'll try to take a pic at lunch. Unfortunately I'm still rubbing in the rear (even with rolled fenders). I only rub when I accelerate too hard or hit a big bump. I'm going to try raising the rear about 1/4" and see if that helps. I may have to find some time to install my JBR rear camber arms and add a little more camber so they don't rub. I really don't want to do that because there's already a ton of rear camber due to being lower on these coilovers.
Also, I checked my brake pads while swapping wheels. The inside pads on the front are almost down to the padI knew I needed brake pads, but now I need them ASAP LOL. I'm probably going to order something today after doing more research to determine what pad works best for me. Due to limited funds, I can't afford to run 2 sets of pads (one for the street, one for the track).
When I replace my brake pads, do I need to have the rotors machined? My front rotors are slotted LINK HERE. Can they even machine slotted rotors? Or do you guys think I'll be fine. I have about 27,000 miles on them right now. My last track session at Mid-Ohio last year, I noticed some slight vibrations in the front when braking from 100+ mph. I'm hoping my rotors didn't get warped due to crazy high temps. I definitely never set the e-brake after a session. I make sure I park the car in gear after sessions. I can tell the rotors reached some crazy temperatures. The rotors have heat paint markings that change colour to monitor peak braking temperatures. The Red stripe changes white when it reaches 630C (about 1166F) and mine was white after mid-ohio LOL. I was pushing it VERY hard keeping up with a Z06 vette lol.
Evan2....funny that you ask. See my post and Will's response from yesterday. Hope it helps.
As for my bro-in-law he has no idea what type of pads are on the car nor does he have records from the last time they were changed. So now I'll call a few places to get pricing on machining vs. buying new. Seeing that he hauls my two little nieces in the car, I'd rather have him spend a little extra vs. throwing on a new set of pads and risk potential failure.
I don't think it's an issue of fail versus not fail but about maximizing the brake performance. We are talking about a Tribute, which I'm guessing isn't used for any performance driving? 
If the rotors are in good condition now (no vibrations, plenty of thickness when compared to what's stamped on the edge), I personally wouldn't bother with turning/machining the rotors. Just make sure you bed them in via the instructions from the manufacturer, or if no instructions are provided follow this.
Evan, as far as the vibration at 100+ mph... I would say that the rotors probably are warped. But, it wasn't caused from excessive heat during your track excursions. StopTech does a great job of explaining the warped rotor myth here, and for those that don't want to read it the basic summary is that it's caused by an uneven layer of pad material on the rotor surface.
Slotted rotors can be turned just like any other rotor, but that said I wouldn't get yours turned unless there is for sure a problem with them. So that said, if it were me I would just bed in the new pads and carry on. If you did achieve that high of temperatures with vibrations caused by the rotor you probably won't be able to solve it permanently with machining anyways.
On my Speed3 I changed my stock brake pads at 96,000...
And by waiting until there was no pad material left, I ruined the rotors in the process:
If the rotors are in good condition now (no vibrations, plenty of thickness when compared to what's stamped on the edge), I personally wouldn't bother with turning/machining the rotors. Just make sure you bed them in via the instructions from the manufacturer, or if no instructions are provided follow this.Evan, as far as the vibration at 100+ mph... I would say that the rotors probably are warped. But, it wasn't caused from excessive heat during your track excursions. StopTech does a great job of explaining the warped rotor myth here, and for those that don't want to read it the basic summary is that it's caused by an uneven layer of pad material on the rotor surface.
Slotted rotors can be turned just like any other rotor, but that said I wouldn't get yours turned unless there is for sure a problem with them. So that said, if it were me I would just bed in the new pads and carry on.
If you did achieve that high of temperatures with vibrations caused by the rotor you probably won't be able to solve it permanently with machining anyways. On my Speed3 I changed my stock brake pads at 96,000...
And by waiting until there was no pad material left, I ruined the rotors in the process:
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
I don't think it's an issue of fail versus not fail but about maximizing the brake performance. We are talking about a Tribute, which I'm guessing isn't used for any performance driving?
Evan, as far as the vibration at 100+ mph... I would say that the rotors probably are warped. But, it wasn't caused from excessive heat during your track excursions. StopTech does a great job of explaining the warped rotor myth here, and for those that don't want to read it the basic summary is that it's caused by an uneven layer of pad material on the rotor surface.
Slotted rotors can be turned just like any other rotor, but that said I wouldn't get yours turned unless there is for sure a problem with them. So that said, if it were me I would just bed in the new pads and carry on.
On my Speed3 I changed my stock brake pads at 96,000...
And by waiting until there was no pad material left, I ruined the rotors in the process:
lol at the performance driving and far from it. He and his wife both do a majority of city driving and are easy on the skinny pedal. I was thinking about machining/replacing from your comment about changing the pad materials. So if he's running a semi-metallic now and I go to a ceramic it would be ok as long as I bed them in properly?
And wtf evan?
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- 2016 GT ST 47A
I call BS....I can see a shadow of those lady hands on the rotor.
Cool and thanks.
Evan, as far as the vibration at 100+ mph... I would say that the rotors probably are warped. But, it wasn't caused from excessive heat during your track excursions. StopTech does a great job of explaining the warped rotor myth here, and for those that don't want to read it the basic summary is that it's caused by an uneven layer of pad material on the rotor surface.
Slotted rotors can be turned just like any other rotor, but that said I wouldn't get yours turned unless there is for sure a problem with them. So that said, if it were me I would just bed in the new pads and carry on.
That article makes a lot of sense. The quote below is probably what caused the vibrations.
Pads that function primarily by abrasion have a high wear rate and tend to fade at high temperatures. When these pads reach their effective temperature limit, they will transfer pad material onto the disc face in a random and uneven pattern. It is this "pick up" on the disc face that both causes the thickness variation measured by the technicians and the roughness or vibration under the brakes reported by the drivers.
I'm willing to bet that my pads exceeded their maximum operating temperature and transferred pad materiel onto the rotor face in a random/uneven pattern. I think I'll leave the rotors as they are and just bed my new pads when I get them. Thanks for the info!!!
Perro del Sol
Member
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- 2003 MSP, Spicy Orange, 2004 Mazda 6 Hatch, 2004 Mazda 6 Wagon
You guys might want to wait if you can.....Cobalt Friction is going to be releasing a new pad this summer for Street/Auto-X....the best thing about these pads, is you do not have to bed them
Marlon,
We are coming out with a new Cobalt Friction STR Street Performance Brake pad line this summer. I will try to get you a set!
-Glenn
Marlon,
We are coming out with a new Cobalt Friction STR Street Performance Brake pad line this summer. I will try to get you a set!
-Glenn
