Ricktalife's EPIC fails and maybe a build thread too

studs shouldnt break when you remove the spipe, mine had no problem coming off. pb blaster + torch. be more concerned about having the right wrench to fit in those hard to reach spots. and the oil on your spipe is likely a worn out o ring on your oil return flange and not a bad turbo, though you wont know for sure till its off the car.

Yea I am starting to think that I overreacted about the oil leak and probably didn't need to buy a replacement turbo, but I feel much more at ease having a backup in case something does go wrong. Like you said, I can't figure anything out until it's off the car and this is my daily so I can't have a lot of downtime.
 
Some more goodies arrived in the mail today :D

Medieval motor mounts and miscellaneous items for my new CX Racing front mount.
 
Bought some aluminum from Lowes today so I can fabricate some brackets for my coolant overflow and catch can tanks. If all goes well I should have them in by tomorrow. I would like to relocate the vacuum block as well.
 
Yeah the reason I asked is because I had to replace the rubber O ring on the oil return on the turbo as mine was leaking enough to drip on my garage floor occasionally.
I also replaced the gasket on the return on the block for good measure.

Unless you are burning oil and see smoke coming out your tail pipe when in boost, your turbo is most likely fine.

Here are the part numbers for the O ring and gasket.

0000-88-C22
N3A1-14-293

I guess just keep your new one for the day it does actually go.
 
You are the man! Having the part numbers will save me a good 20 minutes of waiting at the counter for the parts guy to look them up lol thanks dude.
 
Got my catch can mounted today with the help of my dad. I bought a long strip of aluminum and we fabricated a bracket. I think it looks pretty clean and I'm very happy with it. I will try to get a picture up but it's after 9pm lol so not now. I didn't run the lines yet because I'm thinking I should buy some braided hose for quality and better looks, and I also am not 100% sure how to route them. I know one goes to the crank case and serves as a breather, and the other goes to the PCV valve. But my question is, what do I do with the current setup connecting to the PCV? There is a 'T' connection already and I'm not sure if I have to connect the catch can straight to the PCV or if I have to incorporate the other line as well. Thoughts? If somebody could provide a picture that would be fantastic.
 
pictures i have to follow when i install mine, same catch can.

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i just capped the 2 vacuum lines that used to connect to the pcv right at the intake manifold, as i don't think they are needed once you replace the valve with the catch can.
 
Wow that is a sweet setup you have. Thanks for the help I appreciate it. Did you get your braided hose and fittings at summit racing?
 
Wow that is a sweet setup you have. Thanks for the help I appreciate it. Did you get your braided hose and fittings at summit racing?

That is signature sounds engine bay. I got all my black braided hoses and fittings from a local source, but any an6 fittings and hoses should work.
 
That is signature sounds engine bay. I got all my black braided hoses and fittings from a local source, but any an6 fittings and hoses should work.

Oh ok lol I thought it looked familiar. Cool so I will need a total of 4 fittings then, correct? Stupid question I know but I wasn't sure if the PCV needs a fitting to connect.
 
Oh ok lol I thought it looked familiar. Cool so I will need a total of 4 fittings then, correct? Stupid question I know but I wasn't sure if the PCV needs a fitting to connect.

i bought 3 straight connectors, hose and one 90 deg threaded adapter. I took the pcv right out of the equation.
 
So you're saying you removed the PCV altogether?

yes because i have the sealed can with the pcv head. if you bought the can similar to the one in the pic the install might be a bit different. But i let Brian know you had a few questions,

answers from Brian,

if its a sealed can top fitting to IM, bottom fitting to PCV hole.

filter top. Block off IM, top fitting to side of VC, top fitting to PCV
 
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yes because i have the sealed can with the pcv head. if you bought the can similar to the one in the pic the install might be a bit different. But i let Brian know you had a few questions,

answers from Brian,

if its a sealed can top fitting to IM, bottom fitting to PCV hole.

filter top. Block off IM, top fitting to side of VC, top fitting to PCV

I assume that's a typo, since he said both hoses go from the top lol. So which was meant to say bottom? That makes sense considering you have a sealed can, but mine has the filter on top.

edit: Nevermind I looked back at the pictures lol I'm an idiot.
 
Oh man, sorry for being so late to the party guys!

JT: I just looked back at the text I sent you and realized I screwed up when responding to you. Good looking out and much appreciated for your help!!! I will get with you on your setup for the sealed top Catch Can system. That system eliminates the PCV and has a check valve in it which is required to be plumbed to the intake manifold for a vacuum source.

Ricktalife: Since you have the filter top catch can, you will need to connect the bottom port of the catch can to the Millenia S PCV valve that you have. You can also eliminate the PCV with this setup! Please PM me if this is your plans. I will give you part numbers and pictures.

The top fitting of the catch can will go to the valve cover side port. Block off the intake manifold nipples that the "T" was originally attached to. Also, Block off the nipple on the intake tube the valve cover side port was originally attached to.The proper size vacuum caps with a little RTV and mini zip ties does the trick real well.

The picture that Bikingpro posted of my engine bay is a great reference for your setup. I used AN-10 for mine, but you will need 3/8" OR AN-6 is the same thing if you decide to get braided. Since you have the hose barbs for all connections in your system, you can just push the hose on for connection and finish the ends with finisher clamps. They look just like AN style fittings, except they are hose clamps. Let me know if you need part numbers for any of this stuff.

I hope this clears things up. If not, Let me know before you buy anything so i can help you make sure the tanks perform as designed. Sorry you had to make new brackets for your setup. The ones I supplied were intended for stock location mounting. You must be doing some relocations for the intake piping?? The catch can came with a mount for the battery tray, did you find a better spot? If so, please be sure to have it in a cool place away from heat and slightly lower than the valve cover. The hose routing should be so that there is a smooth transition downward from the VC to the catch can. This will keep from any pooling inside the hoses.

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EDIT: I hate my camera lol. It looks like there are flaws in the paint job, but I assure you thats just reflection. The paint was a custom mix using several layers of candy blue over silver. The top coat has the ultra fine metallic in it and makes the color look like it has depth. If my camera wasnt such a piece of crap, you would be able to see that. High solids PPG clear, and my home brew of paint was used... hope you guys like it. Its one of my all time favorites.
 
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Ricktalife: Since you have the filter top catch can, you will need to connect the bottom port of the catch can to the Millenia S PCV valve that you have. You can also eliminate the PCV with this setup! Please PM me if this is your plans. I will give you part numbers and pictures.

The top fitting of the catch can will go to the valve cover side port. Block off the intake manifold nipples that the "T" was originally attached to. Also, Block off the nipple on the intake tube the valve cover side port was originally attached to.The proper size vacuum caps with a little RTV and mini zip ties does the trick real well.

The picture that Bikingpro posted of my engine bay is a great reference for your setup. I used AN-10 for mine, but you will need 3/8" OR AN-6 is the same thing if you decide to get braided. Since you have the hose barbs for all connections in your system, you can just push the hose on for connection and finish the ends with finisher clamps. They look just like AN style fittings, except they are hose clamps. Let me know if you need part numbers for any of this stuff.

I hope this clears things up. If not, Let me know before you buy anything so i can help you make sure the tanks perform as designed. Sorry you had to make new brackets for your setup. The ones I supplied were intended for stock location mounting. You must be doing some relocations for the intake piping?? The catch can came with a mount for the battery tray, did you find a better spot? If so, please be sure to have it in a cool place away from heat and slightly lower than the valve cover. The hose routing should be so that there is a smooth transition downward from the VC to the catch can. This will keep from any pooling inside the hoses.

Thanks for the input Brian. Bikingpro sent me a PM with the part numbers for the hose and fittings, which I purchased earlier today. Though I did not think to get clamps. I'm sure I could find some at the local pep boys or equivalent. I do indeed love the look of these cans, they match the car very well. I put my catch can in the back left corner (pass. side) attached to some kind of brace for the strut tower bar. The top of the can is lower than the strut bar, so I don't think I will have any issues. I didn't expect you to have perfect brackets for these, since everybody puts them in different spots.
 
Thanks for the input Brian. Bikingpro sent me a PM with the part numbers for the hose and fittings, which I purchased earlier today. Though I did not think to get clamps. I'm sure I could find some at the local pep boys or equivalent. I do indeed love the look of these cans, they match the car very well. I put my catch can in the back left corner (pass. side) attached to some kind of brace for the strut tower bar. The top of the can is lower than the strut bar, so I don't think I will have any issues. I didn't expect you to have perfect brackets for these, since everybody puts them in different spots.

What fittings exactly? His is going to use "AN" style, yours will be hose barb. Totally incompatible with ech other. His hose type will fit yours since they are both 3/8" inside diameter, but his fittings are going to be the screw on style. Yours will push on. Thats why you will need the clamps. The finishers just make the ends of the hose look pretty and simulates having the "AN" style without the cost. Basically all you will need is about 4 feet of 3/8" i.d. hose and 4 clamps (finishers if you use braided to make it look nicer).
 
****. I just sent the vendor a message to see if it's too late to change my order. I just ordered what he showed me without even thinking. For now I think I might just hook it up with the hose you provided.
 
****. I just sent the vendor a message to see if it's too late to change my order. I just ordered what he showed me without even thinking. For now I think I might just hook it up with the hose you provided.

just be careful if you ever remove the hose. be sure to cut the hose from the fitting. those barbs hold on for dear life and the fittings are sealed with 3M VHB. Its strong s***, but can crack if you tug on it too hard.
 
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