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Ricktalife's EPIC fails and maybe a build thread too
- Thread starter Ricktalife
- Start date
Ricktalife
Member
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- 2012 Subaru WRX
I'm giving some thought towards selling the MSP, though at the same time I've put so much effort and money into it and have come so close to being satisfied... I am just sick of the constant issues I have. I decided I am done buying mods and may even sell some that aren't installed yet. Once I get this ******* wiring for the FIC fixed I am never touching the ECU again. I am just taking it to a dyno so I can be done with it.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Finally defeated the FIC wiring issue. It turned out I had a loose pin connection on the bypass harness, which was the only thing I didn't check (go figure). Car runs fine with the bypass connected, so now I can work on fixing the bugs with the FIC and use the bypass to drive the car in the meantime. What a nightmare that was.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
maybe you should post up a how-to, so other people wont have to struggle like you did lol
congrats on getting the car running though
congrats on getting the car running though
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Thanks, and yea I have a small writeup started for it. It won't be anything spectacular but it will be a good point of reference.
On a side note, I noticed yesterday that I have some oil on my s-pipe. Guess I have a leaky turbo, that's great. Checked the oil level and it's above full so it must be a very slow leak.
On a side note, I noticed yesterday that I have some oil on my s-pipe. Guess I have a leaky turbo, that's great. Checked the oil level and it's above full so it must be a very slow leak.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Today I took some JB weld and smeared that s*** over every single pin connector on the FIC so I don't have to worry about any more loose connections. It should be dry in a few hours, but I'm sure I won't get my car back in the garage for a few days at least. Once it dries I am ready to mount the FIC in my glove box and tuck everything away for good. I also ran a wire to my wideband so I can log data through the FIC. Soon I will be ready to set up a basic tune (finally).
After this fiasco is finished, I will be moving on to the clunk fix and seeking new couplers for my replacement intercooler core.
After this fiasco is finished, I will be moving on to the clunk fix and seeking new couplers for my replacement intercooler core.
This is a great thread Ricktalife. It reads just like any one of our own experiences. The dumb thing I did was buy the MSP as my daily, so my toy/track car barely gets any attention. It's actually been a great daily. Very practical, very fun, subtle styling. But lately, I've been spending my entire weekend on it, and the creaks/pops/rattles have just gotten out of hand. Thankfully, I always have my wife's car or my other car to make the emergency runs to Autozone or Ace.
Need to start tuning it, hopefully with the help of your write up it goes a lot smoother with the AEM. I wish I would have gotten it years ago. I figure if I can lean her out a bit, and prevent the clouds of unburnt gas being spewed out the tail pipe, I'd make up most of the AEM cost just in gas in a year or two. The lack of hesitation and any increased hp would just be a bonus. Unfortunately, more important things just keep popping up and taking priority.
Currently, numero uno is my wheel bearings, picked up the loaner tools from Autozone today. We'll see how well that goes. I just hope I don't go through that mess and the noise ends up not actually being the wheel bearing.
Need to start tuning it, hopefully with the help of your write up it goes a lot smoother with the AEM. I wish I would have gotten it years ago. I figure if I can lean her out a bit, and prevent the clouds of unburnt gas being spewed out the tail pipe, I'd make up most of the AEM cost just in gas in a year or two. The lack of hesitation and any increased hp would just be a bonus. Unfortunately, more important things just keep popping up and taking priority.
Currently, numero uno is my wheel bearings, picked up the loaner tools from Autozone today. We'll see how well that goes. I just hope I don't go through that mess and the noise ends up not actually being the wheel bearing.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Thanks man I appreciate the kind words.
Ok for laughs (more like tears) I decided to add up what I've spent on the MSP in the last two years, and it was sickening. I've done nothing outrageous like internals or even a turbo replacement, and I am well over $5k. Big items were the AEM FIC, RonDavis Radiator, SMIC, new tires, HPK, and new front bumper (stupid tabs broke). That's a boatload right there. The rest is all little maintenance, repair, and appearance stuff, but it adds up quick. Bushings, lock actuators, motor mounts/inserts, manifold studs, bearings, end links, etc. Had I not done all the work myself, it would have been an easy three grand more. And I don't know how to put a monetary value on all the time I've spent reading the forums.
I almost traded in my MSP for a turbo Cobalt SS when it came out back in summer of 2008. It would have cost about 17k to trade. That was around 9k for the trade, 24k for the Cobalt plus tax/title/license.
Just driving it was not anywhere near as fun as the MSP, even with near 100 more hp. It also felt crazy cheap. It made the Protege almost seem like a nice car. Anyway, I was really glad when I walked away from that deal and got back into my car, even with my ticking exhaust leak.
But now that I've spent all the time and money on the car just to have it depreciate another 2-3k, I'm not sure I am making the right decision to keep it. I just spent another $300 today on new control arms and urethane bushings. It's a sick sick affliction we have with these cars.
The best way to own cars is to pick them up around two years old, then sell them before you have to start doing any significant maintenance. All you'll ever lose is the depreciation, and you'll never have to spend a weekend extracting exhaust manifold bolts out of your block. If you are aggressive with your haggling and you live in a state without private party sales tax, a 40k MSRP car, (335, G37, TL TypeS, EvoX etc) for instance can be picked up with 25k miles for around 30k. If you drive it for 3 yrs, and put about 12k miles a year on it, you'll only lose about 8k in depreciation. Which is about what I've spent and lost on the MSP over the past two, except you're driving a siginificantly nicer and faster car that's under warranty.
The problem is we all don't have 30k in cash, so we have to get a loan, which adds interest to the equation assuming you can get approved. Also, we always have the itch to mod, to make the car better or faster, or simply more unique. We all say "get a daily that you won't want to mod", but what car would you be happy driving everyday that you wouldn't want to mod? It doesn't exist.
So here we are stuck with our humble MSPs, diagnosing noises, longing for more power, and burning money, but damn do we love them.
I almost traded in my MSP for a turbo Cobalt SS when it came out back in summer of 2008. It would have cost about 17k to trade. That was around 9k for the trade, 24k for the Cobalt plus tax/title/license.
Just driving it was not anywhere near as fun as the MSP, even with near 100 more hp. It also felt crazy cheap. It made the Protege almost seem like a nice car. Anyway, I was really glad when I walked away from that deal and got back into my car, even with my ticking exhaust leak.
But now that I've spent all the time and money on the car just to have it depreciate another 2-3k, I'm not sure I am making the right decision to keep it. I just spent another $300 today on new control arms and urethane bushings. It's a sick sick affliction we have with these cars.
The best way to own cars is to pick them up around two years old, then sell them before you have to start doing any significant maintenance. All you'll ever lose is the depreciation, and you'll never have to spend a weekend extracting exhaust manifold bolts out of your block. If you are aggressive with your haggling and you live in a state without private party sales tax, a 40k MSRP car, (335, G37, TL TypeS, EvoX etc) for instance can be picked up with 25k miles for around 30k. If you drive it for 3 yrs, and put about 12k miles a year on it, you'll only lose about 8k in depreciation. Which is about what I've spent and lost on the MSP over the past two, except you're driving a siginificantly nicer and faster car that's under warranty.
The problem is we all don't have 30k in cash, so we have to get a loan, which adds interest to the equation assuming you can get approved. Also, we always have the itch to mod, to make the car better or faster, or simply more unique. We all say "get a daily that you won't want to mod", but what car would you be happy driving everyday that you wouldn't want to mod? It doesn't exist.
So here we are stuck with our humble MSPs, diagnosing noises, longing for more power, and burning money, but damn do we love them.
WEEEELLLLL
im looking at the tires, you should throw that out. every car burns tires.
and if you replaced the bumper because the tabs broke, youd go through a bumper on another car too because someone nicked it pretty hard in a parking lot. you can sell the mods when you part the car, so take off another grand. where are you at now? 2500-3000?
and the ron davis... while nice, stupidly expensive. in fact, a lot of the things you bought, you took the expensive route. i spent about 1500 on mods and would bet money i made the same HP (full custom exhaust, FMIC, t3/t04e 50 trim, etc. stopped at EMS). for me, the maintenance on the MSP was extremely good compared with other cars ive owned. i had zero maintenance issues that were out of the norm, just a few goofy things, and the standard BS like motor mounts (granted, i only had the car 1.5 years).
you are extremely smart to consider a daily you wont want to mod. you have to tell yourself a penny saved is a penny earned and think of your project car. it can be done. im driving a VQ30 maxima these days, and knowing ill get a project car is whats made me hold off on a standard intake/headers/exhaust. get a car that lasts forever and doesnt need your constant attention -- VQ35 maximas are quick, not a track car but manageable, and i saw no need to start modding the RX-8 i test drove... it was damn near perfect. they need a little more attention, but not as much in the mod department, since short of turbo, theres not significant gains to be made.
last piece of advice: dont buy any aftermarket parts new. any. period. you can save half easily by going used.
im looking at the tires, you should throw that out. every car burns tires.
and if you replaced the bumper because the tabs broke, youd go through a bumper on another car too because someone nicked it pretty hard in a parking lot. you can sell the mods when you part the car, so take off another grand. where are you at now? 2500-3000?
and the ron davis... while nice, stupidly expensive. in fact, a lot of the things you bought, you took the expensive route. i spent about 1500 on mods and would bet money i made the same HP (full custom exhaust, FMIC, t3/t04e 50 trim, etc. stopped at EMS). for me, the maintenance on the MSP was extremely good compared with other cars ive owned. i had zero maintenance issues that were out of the norm, just a few goofy things, and the standard BS like motor mounts (granted, i only had the car 1.5 years).
you are extremely smart to consider a daily you wont want to mod. you have to tell yourself a penny saved is a penny earned and think of your project car. it can be done. im driving a VQ30 maxima these days, and knowing ill get a project car is whats made me hold off on a standard intake/headers/exhaust. get a car that lasts forever and doesnt need your constant attention -- VQ35 maximas are quick, not a track car but manageable, and i saw no need to start modding the RX-8 i test drove... it was damn near perfect. they need a little more attention, but not as much in the mod department, since short of turbo, theres not significant gains to be made.
last piece of advice: dont buy any aftermarket parts new. any. period. you can save half easily by going used.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
LOL don't even get me started about how much money I've thrown at my car. I'm sure it's pretty obvious by taking a glance at my mod list that I spent probably the same in mods as I did on the car. In a nutshell:
Exhaust - $800
Intake - $275
Manifold - $650
ARP studs - $100
AFC traded for FIC - $400
New wheels - $500
FMIC - $550
Headunit - $550
New BOV - $240
Eibach springs - $200
The list goes on, but those are the big one's that come to mind. That list totals up to $4,265 lol... I should take a count of all the mods I purchased plus the labor I paid before doing my own work, to get a better estimate. I'm not sure I want to know the grand total.
Exhaust - $800
Intake - $275
Manifold - $650
ARP studs - $100
AFC traded for FIC - $400
New wheels - $500
FMIC - $550
Headunit - $550
New BOV - $240
Eibach springs - $200
The list goes on, but those are the big one's that come to mind. That list totals up to $4,265 lol... I should take a count of all the mods I purchased plus the labor I paid before doing my own work, to get a better estimate. I'm not sure I want to know the grand total.
Yeah tires and the bumper certainly weren't the Protege's fault. I wanted to get it painted anyway, the other thing we have here besides heat and dry air is rocks. I was just adding what I've spent since the day I walked away from the Cobalt deal, since it didn't need those things. My hood could actually use new paint now, shiny as new, but pitted like Tommy Lee Jone's face.
A lot of things are the MSPs fault though. All the noises for one. The broken manifold bolts. A suspension going at 70k? Control arms? Motor mounts? Lock actuators? Radiator?
Those things shouldn't need to be replaced on a 7 year old car.
I've been lucky or careful, but I haven't needed a new turbo, LSD or engine yet, but we all know those can go at any time.
I test drove the crap out of the RX8 when it came out in 2003, love the styling, love the handling, love the interior, but just couldn't get over it's lack of power. It just didn't feel any faster than my MX6. My best friend has one so I ride in it a couple times a week. Our cars are within inches from a roll.
They are cheap now, which means kids can pick them up now and wreck them, so he's seen his rates go up a bunch in the past year for no reason. You gotta love insurance companies. Also, 15 mpg doesn't make for a good daily. You can baby 20 out of them, but who on this forum is going to do that?
I hear you on the used parts and I look for them before I make any purchase. They just never pop up when you need them. I agree, the RonDavis was pricey but I haggled PG into a discount if I bought the SMIC at the same, so it really wasn't much more than a stock replacement. It does look pretty in there, and I figured AZ heat can use all the cooling I can give it. The SMIC is the only performance part I've bought that didn't replace something that was broken.
I looked hard for a manual Maxima back when I got the MSP, but really hard to find. The VQ35 may be affordable now and quick, but they are boats.
I am thinking of picking up a B8 S4 when they get a few miles on them. Then I just have to restrain from modding, and sell it when the warranty runs up. Both of which are easier said than done. The MSP would have to go though, which would be sad. It would have to find a good home. My brother has expressed some interest.
Actually a near perfect one popped up today. A 2010 manual Prestige with 26k miles. Just not quite ready to spring for it. It's definitely tempting though.
I probably won't be spending the 10k that'll depreciate in the next two years on the MSP though. And we are kind of bottoming out on the value of the MSP. Once you get below 5k book, it's really just up to condition.
Ah decisions decisions.
A lot of things are the MSPs fault though. All the noises for one. The broken manifold bolts. A suspension going at 70k? Control arms? Motor mounts? Lock actuators? Radiator?
Those things shouldn't need to be replaced on a 7 year old car.
I've been lucky or careful, but I haven't needed a new turbo, LSD or engine yet, but we all know those can go at any time.
I test drove the crap out of the RX8 when it came out in 2003, love the styling, love the handling, love the interior, but just couldn't get over it's lack of power. It just didn't feel any faster than my MX6. My best friend has one so I ride in it a couple times a week. Our cars are within inches from a roll.
They are cheap now, which means kids can pick them up now and wreck them, so he's seen his rates go up a bunch in the past year for no reason. You gotta love insurance companies. Also, 15 mpg doesn't make for a good daily. You can baby 20 out of them, but who on this forum is going to do that?
I hear you on the used parts and I look for them before I make any purchase. They just never pop up when you need them. I agree, the RonDavis was pricey but I haggled PG into a discount if I bought the SMIC at the same, so it really wasn't much more than a stock replacement. It does look pretty in there, and I figured AZ heat can use all the cooling I can give it. The SMIC is the only performance part I've bought that didn't replace something that was broken.
I looked hard for a manual Maxima back when I got the MSP, but really hard to find. The VQ35 may be affordable now and quick, but they are boats.
I am thinking of picking up a B8 S4 when they get a few miles on them. Then I just have to restrain from modding, and sell it when the warranty runs up. Both of which are easier said than done. The MSP would have to go though, which would be sad. It would have to find a good home. My brother has expressed some interest.
Actually a near perfect one popped up today. A 2010 manual Prestige with 26k miles. Just not quite ready to spring for it. It's definitely tempting though.
I probably won't be spending the 10k that'll depreciate in the next two years on the MSP though. And we are kind of bottoming out on the value of the MSP. Once you get below 5k book, it's really just up to condition.
Ah decisions decisions.
indeed. you can find VQ35 maximas in stick -- theyre out there. heavy, could use suspension tweaking, but power is good enough for a daily.
like i mentioned, i have the vq30. by the time i do intake/headers/exhaust, im at $1300. springs/struts, FSTB, LTB, RSB, pulls down another $1200. now i'm at $2500, or more than enough to rebuild a IS300 with GTE pistons and new gaskets/pumps/seals/etc. alternately, im pricing out turbo kits for cars faster than the maxima will ever be. im halfway to a 240SX in tolerable condition. theres a million better ways to spend the money than on a daily.
the RX8 i drove had no problem putting down power. its not blinding fast, but its quick enough. mileage should be better than 15, most people on rx8 forums pull in 18MPG city or so, 23HWY. its also under warranty if its less than 100k miles. and the 8's were a little pokey at first, they had several PCM flashes and redesigned plugs/wires, etc. they did have hesitation problems at first.
only normal things that went on your car are the motor mounts (and obnoxious noises). most people havent blown suspensions at 70k, radiators either. control arms arent a horrible shock but not common, lock actuators could happen on any car (and from what i recall, not too uncommon on audis....). youre blaming everything on the MSP like s*** never happens on other cars. look at any car, they all have stupid s***. maximas rust out radiator supports and thats $800-1000 to fix correctly. RX8's burn oil by design, and have stupidly expensive spark plugs and such. the grand prix i have is prone to electrical issues (check) and rusting rocker panels (didnt get this, fortunately). VW/audi's need electronics replaced more frequently than japanese cars. EVERY car has stupid s*** that happens. all of them. the MSP was far from the worst ive seen... motor mounts and bushings are the only really bad ones.
like i mentioned, i have the vq30. by the time i do intake/headers/exhaust, im at $1300. springs/struts, FSTB, LTB, RSB, pulls down another $1200. now i'm at $2500, or more than enough to rebuild a IS300 with GTE pistons and new gaskets/pumps/seals/etc. alternately, im pricing out turbo kits for cars faster than the maxima will ever be. im halfway to a 240SX in tolerable condition. theres a million better ways to spend the money than on a daily.
the RX8 i drove had no problem putting down power. its not blinding fast, but its quick enough. mileage should be better than 15, most people on rx8 forums pull in 18MPG city or so, 23HWY. its also under warranty if its less than 100k miles. and the 8's were a little pokey at first, they had several PCM flashes and redesigned plugs/wires, etc. they did have hesitation problems at first.
only normal things that went on your car are the motor mounts (and obnoxious noises). most people havent blown suspensions at 70k, radiators either. control arms arent a horrible shock but not common, lock actuators could happen on any car (and from what i recall, not too uncommon on audis....). youre blaming everything on the MSP like s*** never happens on other cars. look at any car, they all have stupid s***. maximas rust out radiator supports and thats $800-1000 to fix correctly. RX8's burn oil by design, and have stupidly expensive spark plugs and such. the grand prix i have is prone to electrical issues (check) and rusting rocker panels (didnt get this, fortunately). VW/audi's need electronics replaced more frequently than japanese cars. EVERY car has stupid s*** that happens. all of them. the MSP was far from the worst ive seen... motor mounts and bushings are the only really bad ones.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Speaking of noises, I installed my clunk fix today. Though the bushings I bought to go with it do not fit (facepalm) so I'm still using the cracked stock one's until I do some shopping.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
FINALLY got the AEM FIC wired properly. It was the damn MAF wire that was causing problems, so I just put it back to stock and said the hell with it. Tuning with the MAF sucks anyway. Saturday will be the official clean up and reassembly of the ECU, mounting the FIC, and cleaning excess parts out of my car and putting them in the pile in my basement. It honestly is a pile... Very excited to get this thing tuned again!
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Some new goodies coming in. Got a Nissan T25 turbo in the mail today, so I'll get that clocked and fitted to the corksport s-pipe. Bought some medieval motor mounts to go with my AWR front mount. I plan on relocating my vacuum block to the brake booster this weekend, and if that goes well I will move the MAF back to the cold pipe and see if I get a rich idle again.
Also got some new couplers coming for my CX Racing front mount intercooler core, so hopefully I can swap that in soon and make my bumper fit right. I've been thinking that I might just fab a new hot pipe since I'm swapping the turbo and all that anyway. We shall see if I can find a good route, but I don't think it should be too hard since my hot pipe is 2.25"./
Also got some new couplers coming for my CX Racing front mount intercooler core, so hopefully I can swap that in soon and make my bumper fit right. I've been thinking that I might just fab a new hot pipe since I'm swapping the turbo and all that anyway. We shall see if I can find a good route, but I don't think it should be too hard since my hot pipe is 2.25"./
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Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
I didn't realize anything was wrong with your stock turbo? You sure yours is done?
Well it might still be okay, but I have wiped some oil off of my s-pipe twice already so there is a slow leak. I'm hoping it is just a simple fix like a worn out gasket or something. Either way, I plan on installing a corksport s-pipe and after looking at my current setup, the studs will probably break if I take the s-pipe off of the turbo so I'm looking to avoid that trouble. After going back and forth I've decided to go with a Thunder V3 manifold instead of a new steedspeed to replace my V1 steedspeed that has a s*** coating. I think steed makes a good product and I intend to buy his intake mani if he goes through with it, but I would like to try out the new Thunder since it is completely redesigned.
............ After going back and forth I've decided to go with a Thunder V3 manifold instead of a new steedspeed to replace my V1 steedspeed that has a s*** coating. I think steed makes a good product and I intend to buy his intake mani if he goes through with it, but I would like to try out the new Thunder since it is completely redesigned.
Im with you here
studs shouldnt break when you remove the spipe, mine had no problem coming off. pb blaster + torch. be more concerned about having the right wrench to fit in those hard to reach spots. and the oil on your spipe is likely a worn out o ring on your oil return flange and not a bad turbo, though you wont know for sure till its off the car.
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