Ricktalife's EPIC fails and maybe a build thread too

Ok the vendor was able to refund my money, so I need to pick out the correct parts now and call them. The vendor is getfast1 and he has the parts listed on an ebay store. I will start looking up the parts I believe are correct and will post the numbers here for verification.
 
nope. you will just push the hose on to the fittings already on the Catch Can. The hose you found is fine. I will locate the finishers for you...

EDIT: Here you go:

Part # 900506 Econ-O-Fit I.D.: 5/8" Hose Size: AN-6 Brand: Earls Econ-O-Fit Black Price: $5

Go to: www.anplumbing.com to order.

Heres what they look like:
finishers.jpg


Its a fancy clamp that looks like AN fittings.
 
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pictures i have to follow when i install mine, same catch can.

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i just capped the 2 vacuum lines that used to connect to the pcv right at the intake manifold, as i don't think they are needed once you replace the valve with the catch can.

Ok why is the radiator split in two? Some kind of dual setup I am not aware of? And what IM is on there? The few inches that are in the picture look awesome, can you point me to some more pics?
 
Ok why is the radiator split in two? Some kind of dual setup I am not aware of? And what IM is on there? The few inches that are in the picture look awesome, can you point me to some more pics?

top secret bro. sorry lol (j/k) wrong place for this. shoot me a PM so we can keep his thread clean. thanks.
 
So I bought a turbosmart FPR to go along with my AEM FIC to try and combat the stock tune. The instructions say I need to get an adapter before I will be able to install it, so I skimmed this thread a couple times to try and get an idea of how to set it up.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123789559-Hesitation-explored-my-solution

This topic seems to be rather unexplored in our cars, and I think it would make tuning EXTREMELY easy. Anybody have a thought or experience to share?
 
I replied to that thread. The FPR will help raise the pressure in the fuel system so the injectors will atomize correctly. You have several other bulls*** variables in the system to watch out for. Solenoids, valves and so on... They will all become a huge research project as you get deeper into tuning. I said screw it and took out all that s*** and did a standalone fuel system. No more relying on anything from the stock computer. Plus the tank is a massive, over weight pig. If you saw the pile of components that came off, you would know why cars cost and weigh so much these days. (Damn government emissions control crap).
 
Really regretting that I didn't jump on that Unichip for sale that came with the software... I don't think our ECU works well with the FIC.
 
Got an appointment with a private mechanic tomorrow to install my medieval trans and rear motor mounts. After feeling the world of difference the front and passenger mounts made, I know I will be very pleased with a full set installed. Since my dad has beaten the idea of selling this car out of my head, I am determined to make it look and perform exactly the way I want. This spring I expect to accomplish:

-Eibach pro kit (needs moar low)
-Replace turbo with another T25 (current one sounds terrible in boost and leaks oil)
-Swap old steedspeed with new Thunder V3
-Install corksport s-pipe
-Install turbosmart fuel pressure regulator
-Replace intake manifold with Steedspeed (if produced) or stocker with no VICS/VTCS and maybe P&P
-Professional dyno tune for air/fuel and timing on FIC at ~9psi

I am curious to see what kind of power I make with everything mentioned above + my current mods. Time to get moving.
 
Correct me if I am wrong here, but this all sounds backwards to me.

SteedSpeed Exhaust manifold is better than the Thunder. You can ask a few owners that switched like Shane.

Eibach Lowering springs only give about 1.5" drop from stock height.

Why not upgrade turbo to a water cooled and ball bearing one so the oil leakage problem wont be an issue 20k miles later?

The stock Intake mani with VICS and VTCS removed sucks. You would be better off getting a 626 mani instead. Otherwise hello idle and cold start problems.

With all those mods, why only 9 psi? Are you forged?

Instead of just doing a port and polish, hit all the gasket areas and match them up. Especially the steed turbo mani. When i did the ports and the turbo flange on my Steed mani, the difference was so huge i had to retune my fuel maps! Otherwise it leaned out so bad I couldnt drive it.

No need for a FPR, unless you want it for looks?

Sorry if this sounds like I am being a dick. My only intention is to help you stay away from headaches. If I am wrong please tell me and I will shut up. It would be cool for you to enjoy this and not go thru the bulls*** others (including me) have gone thru. I have pics of my port job if you want to see them.
 
Yea it does sound a bit weird, but I will explain my reasoning...

My steedspeed is a first gen, which has a bad coating and has somehow developed an exhaust leak at one of the runners. I was going to get a new steedspeed, but then I saw there was a new Thunder design so I thought I would give it a shot.

I am aware the Eibach springs are far from coilovers, and that is exactly what I want. I live in PA, and if you have ever seen our roads you would understand. I don't want to destroy my front bumper, so a mild drop is all I want to get rid of the rally racing look the stock springs give.

To my understanding the stock T25 is a water cooled turbo? Or did you mean there are strictly water cooled turbos that do not use oil at all for cooling?

Funny thing is, I've heard that people get idle and cold start problems with the 626 mani.

I am not forged and do not plan on it as long as this remains my daily driver, so 9 psi is the furthest I wish to go for now.

From what I understood, an upgraded FPR would help with tuning air/fuel but if you have an explanation as to why it will not then I'm all ears.

I didn't take your input as being a dick, and I appreciate the help.
 
well said brother. I understand where you're coming from. Literally. I lived in Reading PA for 6 months and the roads there are crap. Michigan is much worse and thats why I ended up doing the air ride instead of coil overs. But yea I get it.

The Steed is guranteed for life. Mine was a first gen and leaked too. I sent it back to Leen and he Tig welded all the runners, deleted the EGR bung for me and recoated it in black. ALL for FREE! Then I made a support bracket out of an exhaust hanger just to take some of the weight off the flange. Came out sweet. Plus I had a little time to port the s*** out of it and knife edged the T3 flange divider. I also gasket matched the ports as I said earlier and I was ecstatic the difference it made.

The FPR thing I forgot about the issue on that. I hope that works for you.

For a turbo upgrade, I meant a T28 with liquid cooled and ball bearing. I had an IHI-VF22 that was bushing and it didnt last long. I replaced it and went bad rel quick again and it cost me $1100. That sucked bad.TBK didnt stand behind anything, but I didnt have Miguel to learn from at that time lol.

And you are correct about the IM. I guess anything that gets changed that much is going to cause some kind of need for tuning.

Thanks for being open to my thoughts. I just want to help in some way.
 
I bought a Nissan T25 turbo as a replacement since it was already rebuilt, and all the ones here still needed service. Aside from clocking it, I don't believe I need to modify anything for a direct fit. Once I get my new manifold, I can do a mock up with the mani, turbo, and downpipe to see what the fitment will be like.
 
be aware that the sr20 t25 is alot smaller then the gt25 we have on our cars, and you need adapters for the inlet and outlet.
 
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