Need help!!!

[03silverproto]

ok well i posted this in a different section of the forum and didnt get much feedback so im gonna try it again in this section here we go:


alright so last week i put a turbo on the protege, and haven't had any problems with it until last night. so on my way home from work i took it on the highway to show a friend the new upgrade. while im only boosting 7 lbs i got up to 90 and let off the gas and we r just coasting then maybe 5 seconds after i let off i went to pass someone (just so we could here the BOV go off right next the the other car ) nothing happened. i mean nothing the car had died. didnt hear a boom, bang, clunk, nothing. i looked at the gages and the RPM gauge wasnt working and the temp gauge went to hot (like pegged out) so we rolled bout 1\2 a mile to the side of the road ** note while i was rolling i tried to put it in gear and pop the clutch to see if it would start ... nope! just would turn the engine over). so we i get to the side of the road i popped the hood and no smoke, no oil to be seen. nothing out of the norm. had it towed home and called my local Mazda dealer and talked a mech. and told him what had happened, he said that my timing belt busted ... so this morning i took off the valve cover to take a peek.. timing belt is still intact and has tension.. so then i thought it would have been my ECU (which i changed to a mazdaspeed ECU) so i switched it with the NA one i still have ... nope nothing the tempo gague goes to hot and another thing i noticed when i turn the key i cant here the fuel pump like i used to ... now im back to square one .. does anybody have any ideas???

MODS
t3\t4 turbo
obx manifold
tail 38mm wastegate set @ 7lbs
hks BOV
MBC
mazdaspeed ECU
3in exhaust
custom intercooler piping
626 mani

any ideas would help i need my car back !!
thanx,
dillon

 

[Metallic36]

Bad thermostat, water pump, blown head gasket, fact that there is no EMS, alternator, battery, etc.

 

[zoom 79gc]

Just a idea, but Really check your timing belt. you might have ate up some on the teeth on the belt.this would make the belt look like it is still on, and with tension but you need to look at where the belt and crank pulley connect each other. I have seen this problem on a lot of cars running belts. Not saying this is it but check that belt again

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

FUSES. check main fuses and fuel pump fuses.. anything associated with ignition/fuel.

 

[03silverproto]

are those fuses under the hood or inside the car?

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

both.

 

[03silverproto]

AWESOME!! i found out which fuse is was and now it runs . . but everytime i boost that fuse pops ... any ideas?

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

you're running the msp ecu correct? hmm.. which fuse is it?

 

[03silverproto]

right ... its the 10amp engine fuse .. its in the fuse box inside the car

 

[Wagonbacker9]

well you could go to a bigger fuse... but you risk frying the wiring. up to 15 shouldn't hurt anything (I take no responsibility if it does). did you do any wire splicing in the install? if so go recheck all of it for shorts. also, are you sure 10 amps is the factory rating for that fuse? check against the lid. a lower amperage one may have been swapped in at some point?

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

it seems to me that the starter is going.well. it has signs of this as the issue.. starters going bad/bad can pop the engine fuse.

but.. could it be that the car needs some kinda ems?

 

[03silverproto]

wagon- the only wire splicing i did was to connect my gauges, and i wired them all up to the radio fuse. and yes it is supposed to have a 10 amp bc it says 10 amp on that little plastic cover. i dont know what eles it could be .. ive gone through 5 fuses.

boostd- does the starter pull amps even when the car is running? thats when the fuses are popping. and that the next thing im going to get is an EMS ... any suggestions? im on a tight budget.

thanks

 

[Alamo1]

The starter shouldn't ever be drawing current unless the solenoid is engaged. that means the key would have to be on start position or the ignition be faulty and shorting. You should call the dealer and see what that fuse actually runs, so as to better see what or where your problem can be.

Like Wagonbacker says, try a 15 and see if it still blows.... if so then somethign is drawing a hell of a lot of current, as to the usual ... < 10. This is interesting as I'm gonna be doing turbo sometime next fall.

 

[03silverproto]

my thoughts are with you one the starter ^^^ .. but i will try the 15amp fuse, what are the chances of frying some of the wires (stated in an earlier post) if i put the 15 in?

 

[Alamo1]

I ran a lot of large and shady stereos in shadier cars in my younger years. A 15 shouldn't fry anything but I'd just do it to check. Don't use it as a band-aid. Just test the problem and see how much current you're drawing. If it doesn't pop a 15 you probably only have a minor problem. And like wagonbacker I take no responsibility for ill favored outcomes.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

my thoughts are with you one the starter ^^^ .. but i will try the 15amp fuse, what are the chances of frying some of the wires (stated in an earlier post) if i put the 15 in?

I second damage being unlikely, another 5 amps shouldn't allow any catastrophic wire melting... i would use it as a test. I'm guessing if you boost it it'll pop again, which means something in your setup is overdrawing current, or shorting in boost somehow.

 

[GG RACING]

I don't know if this is it but if you go to speedcircuit.net they sell an o2 signal voltage clamp that they say is used for regular protege's to boost. Your o2 sensor might be reading too much voltage.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

this isn't a sensor reading voltage, its too much amperage being drawn through the circuit.

 

[GG RACING]

You say it is'nt a sensor reading too much voltage but a circuit drawing too much amperage. Well if the the sensor reads too much voltage then it will be sending too much amperage to the ecu hence blowing the ecu fuse. Think before you speak. This situation is why that part was created by the guys at speed circuit. Think about it what sensor send signal to the ecu, the o2 sensor, the maf, coolant temp, crank and cam angle sensors, and there are more. If one of those overloads thier signal to the ecu what blows? a fuse and it ends up being the ecu fuse. So unless you are using the stock na protege maf and the ecu doesn't like it enough to read it to the point where you have to get a msp maf then i wouldn't dismiss any other options especialy when you don't understand electronics.

 

[Wagonbacker9]

You say it is'nt a sensor reading too much voltage but a circuit drawing too much amperage. Well if the the sensor reads too much voltage then it will be sending too much amperage to the ecu hence blowing the ecu fuse. Think before you speak. This situation is why that part was created by the guys at speed circuit. Think about it what sensor send signal to the ecu, the o2 sensor, the maf, coolant temp, crank and cam angle sensors, and there are more. If one of those overloads thier signal to the ecu what blows? a fuse and it ends up being the ecu fuse. So unless you are using the stock na protege maf and the ecu doesn't like it enough to read it to the point where you have to get a msp maf then i wouldn't dismiss any other options especialy when you don't understand electronics.

Clearly, you don't understand as much about electrical theory (or the ECU harness) as you believe. I'm not saying its impossible, just VERY unlikely. As for my electrical knowledge, I used to work in the engineering lab for Briggs and Stratton Power Products Division, where my primary tasks were the building, prototyping, performance and endurance testing of generators. Both home standby, and portable.

Think of voltage like PSI in an air line, and think of amperage like CFM in the same air line... just because you bump the PSI up (turn up the regulator), doesn't mean you're increasing the amount if air flowing in the line (assume the air tool only requires 40 cfm to run, doesn't matter if you can supply 90, it only draws 40). One can vary, while the other stays exactly the same. same follows for electricity, and even assuming the sensor voltage were to increase above stock/normal, all that is is a reading to the ECU. the ECU supplies that voltage (and amperage for that matter) to the sensor, and reads the difference between the sent signal (constant), and the received signal (reading from sensor), to determine engine operation. The sensor is essentially a resistor which changes the flow of electricity allowed based on conditions present at the sensor's pickup, so blaming a high sensor reading for an abnormally high amperage draw is one of the LAST things I would suspect. FAR more likely that something is shorting out, or that the ECU is being overworked/overheated due to whatever conditions in the tune are not getting along with boost.

without an intimate knowledge of the programming, as well as about 10 volt/amp/ohm meters it would be very difficult to pinpoint in a timely fashion.

I suggest you read up some more before you A) go shooting your mouth off, and B) try to call me out like that.