Kill your Turkey V.2

[Laser Blue]

+1..... Sure would like a better angle on the BPV only pic.

Also, which is the brake booster line? Why is it important to run off it to the BPV?

was wondering if theres a better pic of the set up on last pic on the first pg. Where is recirculating and it has orange hoses. I can see where it goes back into the intake but where is the other end.

 

[mgerst1]

The brake booster is one of the largest vac sources in your engine bay. right now your bpv and your wastegate are running off the same vac source. For any aftermarket bov (especially the boostsciences rdv) to open properly it needs its own vac source. Look at the pic above. I can take some more. The one on the first page is running for a fmic, mine is if you still have the stock smic.

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

Break booster line is.. well I will post a pic of it, but it is good to run it off of there, as well as all/most of your other parts that need a good vac source because it is a strong/"clean" source, it provides a more stable and consistent source of pressure than the IM, or something like that lol

Edit: damn I took way to long replying lol

 

[Laser Blue]

Where did you go to get the Boostsciences RDV? And does anyone know anything about the Turbosmart Kompact recirculating BPV? It also comes with 25mm (approx. 1") in & outs.

 

[Sport23]

You can get it direct from their webpage. http://boostsciences.com/

 

[mgerst1]

the boostsciences is a really nice unit, i love the sound of it, sounds stock so it is not too loud but it does get noticed

 

[mgerst1]

I have had zero stalling issues. only thing i have noticed is when the car has been sitting and it is cold the grease on the rdv gets gummy so it turkeys for alittle untill the grease warms up

 

[mgerst1]

the key to the bpv only setup is getting the setup right. if you look at mine they had to move the nipple on the sri from the right side by closing off the stock nipple and putting a new one on the sri. this is better than trying to get a pipe over to the side. the key is to have as little space as possible between the inlet of the rdv and the outlet of the hotpipe and as little space as possible between the outlet of the rdv and the inlet of the air intake. also make sure the vacuum hose has no kinks or shapr curves in it

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

ok, so I first had my BOV setup and the BPV line was a little kinked going to the hotpipe (running a SMIC w/hardpipes and MAF in normal area, BOV on coldpipe), and the BOV was sounding hard and great, but then I straightened out the BPV line and now it turkeys again... I also put in the PG intake mani at the same time I straightened out the BPV.. any ideas?

also I just realized that I used a FULL stock break boost line, before going to the vac block, and than I used the vac line that I had before going to the break booster .. solenoid? or where the break booster lines go to.. so pretty much I have 2 check valves.. think that would do it?.. I think I will just feel for the check valve on the line and just cut it there and take it out (before the vac block) and I still have the stock one to the right of the vac block..
.. just double checking, I want the check valve for the break booster line after the intake mani/vac block but before the break boost solenoid

 

[starscream2k1]

Does anyone know the if my placement of the TurboXS RDV will pose a problem?

I have the BEGi intercooler kit, and right now its a dual valve setup (forge rdv (stock size) and a TurboXS RFL bov), i am thinking to weld up the rdv valve (on the hot pipe) and swap the RFL bov on the cold pipe to the RDV and have that recirculate to the intake. Will that be a problem?

I dont wanna do too much rewelding and all that, and i need to try and keep down on costs hence why i kinda wanna reuse the flange i already have an all that.

 

[mgerst1]

how big is the inlet and outlet inner diameter?^

 

[starscream2k1]

how big is the inlet and outlet inner diameter?^

Gonna findout once i get it in the mail, however from what i image on the website about it and what i have read its ~34mm OD. I assume 3-4mm for the OD size so that would mean maybe 26-28mm ID (so bout 1 inch if my calculations are right).

 

[mgerst1]

you will be golden then, all you will need is a 1" inner diameter nipple welded onto the hotpipe and a 1" inner diameter nipple on your air intake. look at my pic a few pages back to see that I had to relocate the nipple on the air intake from where it came stock so the vaccum line from the outlet of the rdv to the air intake is as short as possible and as straight as possible. Aside from the nipples the shortness of the vacuum pipe and the straightness are the most important. You want as little gap as possible between the hotpipe outlet and the inlet of the rdv. and you want as little gap as possible between the outlet of the rdv and the inlet of the air intake. You do not want any harsh bend or kinks in any of the pipes or hoses. then you remove the stock vac line the bpv used and cap that off at the "t" then run a dedicated line from the rdv to the brake booster. (put a t in the brake booster line to the left of the check valve, to be safe start feeling for it in the middle of the line and make sure you cut to the left of the check valve.)

 

[starscream2k1]

you will be golden then, all you will need is a 1" inner diameter nipple welded onto the hotpipe and a 1" inner diameter nipple on your air intake. look at my pic a few pages back to see that I had to relocate the nipple on the air intake from where it came stock so the vaccum line from the outlet of the rdv to the air intake is as short as possible and as straight as possible. Aside from the nipples the shortness of the vacuum pipe and the straightness are the most important. You want as little gap as possible between the hotpipe outlet and the inlet of the rdv. and you want as little gap as possible between the outlet of the rdv and the inlet of the air intake. You do not want any harsh bend or kinks in any of the pipes or hoses. then you remove the stock vac line the bpv used and cap that off at the "t" then run a dedicated line from the rdv to the brake booster. (put a t in the brake booster line to the left of the check valve, to be safe start feeling for it in the middle of the line and make sure you cut to the left of the check valve.)

Well heres a pic of what i currently have, and what i want to do. I hope this works. Let me know... it makes it super easy for me and allows me to get it done fast.

What I currently have (excuse the wires and stuff that will be cleaned up see my other 'tuning adventures' thread)

You can see where the forge rdv goes

This is what I want to do

 

[mgerst1]

I dont know how it will work on the cold pipe I would ask 505Zoom being how he is the one to come up with this solution.
the easy solution would be to weld shut the hole from the flange on the coldpipe and then put the turboxs rdv off the hotpipe.

 

[starscream2k1]

Anyone else know if my last post idea will work?! (see post 94)

 

[starscream2k1]

Does it make it a difference where the BPV is placed?

 

[mgerst1]

as close to the hotpipe outlet as possible

 

[SpeedAdiction20]

quick question, I have looked around but didn't find anything other than topics that were kind of related, but not what I wanted... so anyways here it is

I have the stock BPV and HKS ssvq v2 bov on the cold pipe, normal duel setup.. the hks is venting to atmosphere, but I was just wondering if I should change it to recirculating, I don't have an stalling issues so far, and I haven't tuned it just yet (I also haven't really driving the car that much so far) but just wanted to know if the BOV sound gets a lot quieter if I recirculated it and if you guys think there will be a good chance that I might have some stalling or afr problems once I start driving it more and tuning it?

-or should I just wait until I have the problems and then address them then once I drive the car some more, and it shouldn't be a big deal if I am not having the issues now?..(but would still like to know if recirculating the BOV will make it really quite)

 

[MSP 2731]

I vote that if you are not having issues yet then you shouldn't mess with it. The point of running the dual set up is so you don't have the stalling issues so hopefully you have it set up right and dont have problems. And yes recirculating will make it quieter.