I looked back a few pages but didnt find any info, what im wanting to know is has anyone done a "How to" on this so members of the forum can see exactly what needs to be done?
OK, here goes for a quick "how-to"
The overall system needs:
1) Doc B Racing improved oil pump
2) External PRV from Doc B Racing
3) Oil Filter block adapter plate (sourced by individual)
4) Remote Oil Filter housing (sourced by individual)
5) -10 fitting on oil pan or block girdle for bypass return (easily done with a weld on bung to the pan or girdle)
6) Various -10 AN fiitings and lines
Let's start at the block with the adapter plate where the oil filter normally goes. The one on the Doc B Racing motor here is labelled "IN" and "OUT". You will need a -10 AN line from the "OUT" to the external PRV.
Here is a different view of a Doc B Racing motor. It is hard to tell but there are actually three -10 AN lines on the motor. One of the lines pictured is attached to the "OUT" from the previous photo that will be going to the external PRV (on the lower right side).
Here is a photo of our engine bay without the motor for better photo access to the external PRV and remote oil filter. The previous mentioned -10 AN line will attach to the lower right fitting on the external PRV. Also, a -10 AN line should go from the lower left side of the external PRV to the "IN" on the remote filter housing. (On the Doc B Racing Mazdaspeed Protege we have a cooler mounted between the external PRV and the filter so the line in the photo from the lower left of the external PRV is going to the cooler. If you will be doing similar, a -10 AN line would run back from the oil cooler to the remote oil filter housing "IN" as previously mentioned.) From the "OUT" (red cap) on the remote filter housing a -10 AN line runs back to the block adapter marked "IN".
A -10 AN bypass line is needed from the upper right fitting on the external PRV to either the oil pan or the block girdle. A "bung" can be welded onto a stock pan for this purpose. Just make sure it is as high as possible to prevent backflow in the line. A baffle on the inside of the pan over the welded bung is a good idea if you are going to be doing any "high g" turns. If you weld the bung into the block girdle this is not an issue since the oil level does not reach this point.
Here is a photo of a Doc B Racing oil pan with a bung welded on and a photo of the inside of the pan to show he baffle.
Here is a photo of a -10 AN line going to the bung. It is actually the return line for the turbo but it is basically the same thing just on the other side of the pan (you get the idea...).
Here is a closer view of the external PRV used in the Doc B Racing Mazdaspeed Protege. It is an earlier model of the current ones we have avialable but basically the same. The knob at the top is for adjusting the oil pressure. It should be dialed in once the system is installed on your particular vehicle. We have about 25-30 psi of oil pressure at 1100 rpm (race motor idle) and 70-80 psi at 6800 rpm (redline). You can set it at whatever you feel is appropriate.
Any questions and/or comments fire away.
A block adapter and remote filter housing are available on ebay that a few forum members have used. I have
NO connection with this company and have not physically seen any of their products. However, the photos look similar to the ones we have used. Others are available, just make sure to use parts that have good open flow to prevent restrictions.
