Any photographers in here?

Sometimes. If I want my flash output on the camera, I'll use the 580 and the slaves off the to the side. If I don't want the flash output on the camera, I'll use the ST-E2 to trigger. Both methods are using ETTL, which is why I went with the ST-E2 instead of Pocket Wizards. Eventually I'll upgrade to the Radio Poppers but I haven't had the need for wireless since most of what I shoot has line of site for the IR and my distances are generally under 20-30'.

Here's I shot I took while practicing with flashes on cars. I never used it since I didn't like how the flash was hitting the car from the left (pass. side rear... had to adjust the stands about 2' higher).
_MG_0220a.jpg

A shot like this wouldn't work as well with a flash firing straight on side it would cause a hot spot on the passenger side door, so the ST-E2 works better in this situation. For a 1/4 angle shot, a flash straight on helps fill in some of the shadown on the lower portion of the front bumper since the flash on the right causes a bit of a shadow since the stand is set for about 6' high.


Great post....So let me get this straight: so if you want an on camera and an off you will use the 580 to trigger the 430. If you want them both off you will use the ST-E2 to trigger both. With both of these methods the TTL still works correct? I'm assuming the the shot you posted was with naked flashes correct?

Thanks for the help GR...its just something i have to learn especially now that i'm getting paid for some weddings and realestate shots.

now I need a wishlist:
430 EX
ST-E2
light stands
umbrella/flash mounts
an umbrella or diffuser
 
Great post....So let me get this straight: so if you want an on camera and an off you will use the 580 to trigger the 430. If you want them both off you will use the ST-E2 to trigger both. With both of these methods the TTL still works correct? I'm assuming the the shot you posted was with naked flashes correct?

Thanks for the help GR...its just something i have to learn especially now that i'm getting paid for some weddings and realestate shots.

now I need a wishlist:
430 EX
ST-E2
light stands
umbrella/flash mounts
an umbrella or diffuser

You basically got it.

I got my umbrellas and stands off ebay for about 60 bux shipped.

So you don't need a super high budget to run off camera. You can make your own softboxes if you know how to sew and have access to some light tent poles..etc. Go read strobist. And join in on the discussions on Flickr's Strobist groups. And do some of their assignments. It'll help you out.

I posted this a while back..but here it is again...

http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/index2.html
 
These are my first attempt at HDR, please help me improve:

I can tell the clouds were moving - it shows when you combined the exposures. Next time for moving objects/scenery, capture one exposure then make the other exposures artificially via digital imaging software.
 
I can tell the clouds were moving - it shows when you combined the exposures. Next time for moving objects/scenery, capture one exposure then make the other exposures artificially via digital imaging software.


Like creating 5 different exposures out of one RAW? I don't think that method works well.
 
These are my first attempt at HDR, please help me improve:

Oki1.jpg


Oki2.jpg


Oki3.jpg

What you can do to improve on the image is take one picture with the detail of the clouds. THen proceed to take 5 different pictures of different exposures. So you have 6 altogether now. Then combine 5 images into HDR, put the 6th on top as a layer and mask out stationary clouds so the moving clouds will be "erased".

Your foreground will be HDR and your clouds will look HDR without the movement/blurring.
 
Like creating 5 different exposures out of one RAW? I don't think that method works well.

There are two ways to do this. The best way is to have the camera bracket and do multiple exposures from one image for you. The ghetto method, which also works well if you shoot RAW, is to take one exposure and then process the RAW file to various exposures. This is how I do HDR (which I don't do often).
 
now I need a wishlist:
430 EX
ST-E2
light stands
umbrella/flash mounts
an umbrella or diffuser

First, you should decide how much range you will need. IR is generally good for 30-40'. After that distance, you'll want to invest in wireless. For what I shoot, IR is fine. For what you shoot, you'll probably want to put the money towards Pocket Wizards or Radio Poppers.

If you check craigslist or various photography forums, you can usually find lighting gear for sale used (stands, sand bags, umbrellas, softboxes of various shapes, etc).
 
Thanks for pointing that out. I went back and messed around with tone mapping........Ill see what I can come up with. Any advice?

have a look at this link.
http://abduzeedo.com/how-create-hdr-photos-hdrphotomatix-tutorial

I made this pic using 7 different shots with different exposures. Its pretty overdone by some standards, but I like it. I'm no photographer by any means, I just like to mess around a bit. To me its all about having fun with it, not to win any contests or anything. hehe

test%20725_24_23_22_21_20_19.jpg
 
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My first "portrait" pics that I had to shoot for school. What do you think?

WhitBWprint-1.jpg


C&C very welcome. Just trying to learn

Edit: I see the clarity is a little off, damn low lights.
Any recomendations for settings for indoor/yellow lighting?
 
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For b&w, keep an eye out for the background. You don't want to lose too much detail if your focal point is also dark in color (the hair), which blends together. Go with a brighter background for contrast or use off-camera lighting to highlight the hair.
 
These are my first attempt at HDR, please help me improve:

Oki3.jpg

If your gonna do an HDR with clouds you either need to make sure they aren't moving much or that you take the pics as fast and close together as possible so you don't get movement between exposures. Oh, and there kinda dark like someone else already mentioned. They look good though.
 
If your gonna do an HDR with clouds you either need to make sure they aren't moving much or that you take the pics as fast and close together as possible so you don't get movement between exposures. Oh, and there kinda dark like someone else already mentioned. They look good though.


It's kinda neat to see those clouds though. It's like smoke.
 
All you people with your fancy cameras and talk. Bah! Sometimes the essence of being creative with your photography is simply going out and finding it. No planning. No picking the right equipment. No care if the photo is perfectly framed. Just have fun is what I say.

However I do love a high quality photo. You know, the one that was taken with over $20K of equipment, spent countless hours for the setup and just the right moment for the shot.

Sorry...just ramblings. Here's a photo of a tree I've past by thousands of times over the last 20 years. It's on the side of a busy road so I quickly pulled over, grabbed the camera and snap, done.

treehole.jpg
 
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