Another new addition!
- Thread starter TinmanMS6
- Start date
that's the one thing I saw that I was wondering as well. Honestly I'm not sure. I'd try the O2 sensor first anyway.
I was going to try to pick up a new midpipe this week anyway. How much is an O2 sensor and who's likely to have one in stock?
All I can think of with the leak is that it might keep the cat from getting to the proper temp to burn everything off. WAG there, though.
All I can think of with the leak is that it might keep the cat from getting to the proper temp to burn everything off. WAG there, though.
yeah, that'd have to be a significant leak.
But you can get splice-in O2 sensors for like $20 - 30 from Advance / NAPA. I like the splice in because you can use the stock wire, and give yourself a little extra length. It saved my ass when I put the new header in, that wouldn't have come close to fitting with the different location w/ stock length cable.
But you can get splice-in O2 sensors for like $20 - 30 from Advance / NAPA. I like the splice in because you can use the stock wire, and give yourself a little extra length. It saved my ass when I put the new header in, that wouldn't have come close to fitting with the different location w/ stock length cable.
Reading around a bit, part of the problem might have been that I only drove ~2 miles to the test center. Might need a bit more driving to get the cat up to temp.
I'll just take a look at the timing and warm it up a bit more next time and see what happens. I guess for $20-30 I can pick up a new O2 sensor too.
I'll just take a look at the timing and warm it up a bit more next time and see what happens. I guess for $20-30 I can pick up a new O2 sensor too.
Velocifero
Wham Bam thank you Ma'am
- :
- VRM MS6, Sunlight Silver MSP
you're car should always be hot when you take it in for a test. get some highway run in there too.
Ok, so I went to Kevin's tonight and got a few things taken care of:
-Temp gauge is now working!
....aaaaaaand it's running hot. Surprise, surprise. New thermostat is the next step.
-O2 sensor is replaced. Old one looked like it was running rich.
-Adjusted the timing. I was running 17* BTDC, now backed off to 14. I'll still want premium at that setting, but it should help with emissions.
I'll see how it feels after I get this temp thing sorted out, and possibly bump it back to 16.
Also coming: New brakes. I need new fluid and pads, and I haven't looked at the rotors, but by the sound coming from the front driver's brake, I'm going to need those too. I'm replacing them regardless, since it's about $40 for the whole car at NAPA.
Thanks again, Kevin!
-Temp gauge is now working!
....aaaaaaand it's running hot. Surprise, surprise. New thermostat is the next step.
-O2 sensor is replaced. Old one looked like it was running rich.
-Adjusted the timing. I was running 17* BTDC, now backed off to 14. I'll still want premium at that setting, but it should help with emissions.
I'll see how it feels after I get this temp thing sorted out, and possibly bump it back to 16.
Also coming: New brakes. I need new fluid and pads, and I haven't looked at the rotors, but by the sound coming from the front driver's brake, I'm going to need those too. I'm replacing them regardless, since it's about $40 for the whole car at NAPA.
Thanks again, Kevin!
No problem
. The rotors looked alright, what little i looked at them. You'll likely want them surfaced before you put new pads on and the shop should tell you whether they'll be in tolerance or not.Meh. $39 for all four of them.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123666895
I think I'll try the Axxis Deluxe in front and Ultimates in back and see how that feels too. Cheap, and should do the trick.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123666895
I think I'll try the Axxis Deluxe in front and Ultimates in back and see how that feels too. Cheap, and should do the trick.
good deal dude. Sucks that it's running hot. Fortunately you didn't have far to go. The thermostat is pretty damn easy to replace, as it's front and center on the engine. Just take the splash guard off the bottom and put a bucket under there to catch any coolant you may (will) spill. It won't be much, but it doesn't take much to make a big mess 
LMAO nice. Quick and dirty, or take 5 minutes and do it right.
Actually, it only takes a couple minutes to take mine off because I don't have the bolts that go in towards the inside of the car, I've only got the 3 screws on the front, the 2 nuts on the bumper mount and the 2 bolts near the sway bar (the ones that go up, not in), all of which I can get to w/ my impact and an extension.
Actually, it only takes a couple minutes to take mine off because I don't have the bolts that go in towards the inside of the car, I've only got the 3 screws on the front, the 2 nuts on the bumper mount and the 2 bolts near the sway bar (the ones that go up, not in), all of which I can get to w/ my impact and an extension.
wait wah?? why the stronger pad in the rear unless you are trying to move the bias toward the rear more
FWIW i love the axxis ultimates on the msp very linear and smooth engagement
Velocifero
Wham Bam thank you Ma'am
- :
- VRM MS6, Sunlight Silver MSP
So you're admitting you are out of class?
For autox you do want to move the bias rearward because miata's are know for locking up the front tires quickly. On my miata I have BHP CR6 pads in the rear (I used to have cobalt GT's before they changed the formulation) along with stock mazda pads on the front.
On just a street driven miata I would not worry about it and if I was running something besides stock or STS2 I would change the proportioning valve or remove it.
All the above is for non-ABS miata's.
bingo! In fact, a lot of folks run Hawk HP+s rear, and stock fronts. You'll see / hear them dragging the had brake going up to the line to warm the rear's up
. No thanks.You caught me. Those 2 bolts are giving me the edge I need!
This is going to be my next pad setup (maybe mid-season). The ultimates up front just aren't cutting it. Still too much front bias.
I"ve heard of CSP guys just removing the stock proportioning valve in the early N/As, making it a dumb, 50/50 system with pretty good success.
