Rebuilt engine not going very fast

[isbre]

Nice to now the wire is hooked up right and the o2 sensors is not reversed! I think it was originally routed on top of the tranny.

I drove to a auto shop today and borrowed a code scanner. No additions, still the same code. (P0106 (MAP/Barco circuit range performance) I reset the code and the CEL stayed off for about 10 minutes of driving, then came back on.
Did some research and found out that MAP is an abbreviation for Manifold Absolute Pressure, after doing some more research I found out it has something to do with the EGR boost sensor and solenoid.

 

[isbre]

After my engine was rebuilt I had trouble with very rough idle and took it to the dealer that changed the timing belt alignment. At the same time I asked them to check all cables and vacuum hose connections for errors. The dealer told me everything looked fine so I have up to now assumed that everything was hooked up right. Found some more info on what can throw the P0106 I am not so sure anymore. The EGR boost sensor and solenoid is hooked up to what I guess to be the fuel pressure Regulator (The thing on the end of the fuel rail) - I marked the hose with a red arrow in the picture. Don't know much about vacuum lines but that don't seem logical to me...
Also the hose going from the top of the intake manifold seems to go back to the intake manifold further down on the passenger side. Is it something there or is that just a loop? - I marked that hose with a green arrow in the picture.
I can of course more and/or more upclose pictures and post them if anyone want to compare to your car.

What I am looking for, and probably should have asked for earlier, is some pictures that shows the vacuum lines hooked up correctly and/or a detailed description how to hook them up.

Can anyone help me figuring this out?

 

[Jaysanooch]

Ok I already see I few lines that don't look right, if I compare to mine. Could you take a few more pictures...and maybe remove you strut bar. Try to take picture in many angles.

 

[Jaysanooch]

But so far...to give you an idea of what I see that's wrong....

I marked yellow arrows on the lines that I feel are hooked up wrong.

I marked the line (A) in pink of how it should run...if I compare it to mine.

AND the red arrow....maybe you I can't see it but you don't seem to have anything hooked up to it. That's where my pink vacuum line connects to.

Take some pictures when you get a chance!

 

[isbre]

Ok I already see I few lines that don't look right, if I compare to mine. Could you take a few more pictures...and maybe remove you strut bar. Try to take picture in many angles.

And here I though I was furious enugh at my local Mazda dealer already...
Nice to know that my problems might be easy to fix though.

Here is 4 new pictures. If you want any other angels let me know.
(On the drivers side of the engine there is really just one visible line that goes to the BPV and WGA, but I can take a picture of that too if you like.

 

[Jaysanooch]

I marked the ones that need to be changed. The arrow (unhook it there) you want to bring it to (connect) the matching colored letter.

I'm guessing the red is coming from your wastegate...I'd like to see where that line comes from JUST to be certain.

 

[MAZDA_SPEED]

locate you FPR and change the vacuum line to the correct place..
jaysanooch is on the right track

 

[MAZDA_SPEED]

picture time..=]

hope these help...

 

[shane02pro5]

I can't believe Mazda did the work and actually had the car come back and re-checked the vac routing and said it was good?! WOW!

 

[isbre]

To be fair, I paid a friend of mine to do the work as I can't afford a complete rebuild at the Norwegian dealer rate of $180/hr.
I took it to the dealer and told them that it isn't running quite right, and told them to check all wire and vacuum hose connections as part of the repair. They said they did and that everything looked good.

I changed some hoses and went for a drive to check things out. I followed Jaysanooch's picture except that I couldn't fit the red hose to the connection marked C, it wasn't long enough. I pulled out the hose going to the WGA and put that in connection C instead. If I am not mistaken the pictures from MAZDA_SPEED shows that he has connected a boost controller to that connection, so it seems right.

Things is running a bit better now. Vacuum at idle was before 19-20 "/Hg, now it's 21"/Hg. The bad things is that I got some hesitation around 3000-3500RPM but I know that the hotpipe is a little cracked right by the turbo outlet so I am pretty sure that's why. What worries me more is that the pinging sound around 6000RPM is still going strong. Idle RPM is still high, but when the car ran like crap at first crank after the rebuild the guy tried to fix it by adjusting the throttle body - maybe not the best idea.

It looks like it's garage time for the car until after my final exam May 16th. Hopefully I can find an aluminum hotpipe by then and install it alongside custom SMIC, turbohoses coldpipe w/BOV and PG intake manifold w/another Throttle Body that I am pretty sure is adjusted right.
I know how to connect to and adjust the MPI, but don't know anything about how to modify those numbers safely so I think I'm going to eliminate the MPI and in the future get my unichip tuned and then install that or get a Split Second controller. Until then, anyone know if I can run this planned setup at the stock ECU?

Well, I guess that will be all until my exam, unless someone have a suggestion of something I just have to check out before that.

 

[nvmsp]

You can run alot of set-ups even bigger turbo on the stock ECU. But will it run the way you want...... that is the question. Tuning the car will only make it run better, but I've got alot s*** done and I have no tune, and the car runs pretty damn good. Normal driving no problems at all. I don't have an afteramrket intake manifold so I can't tell you how that performs or feels.


I'd suggest getting your problem found and fixed before you start putting more mods on. Get the pinging fixed and throttle body back to stock setting or a new one like you stated. How is the car pinging at stock boost though? You got oil in the engine? Seriously do you?

 

[Jaysanooch]

I figured the red connection on my drawing would be short but it also seems like its running around the egr...did you try pulling the vacuum like from around there and just place it over...I think it would fit with the extra slack. Either way...that line should be coming from wastegate>bpv> to connection C.

Also, I'd try disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery for 10 minutes...and press the brake pedal for 10 seconds just before you reconnect it. I think the ecu need to learned how things are connected now. It will take a few miles before the ecu..relearns.

Fix your hot pipe leak and then report back to us. Goodluck with your exams!

 

[isbre]

I figured the red connection on my drawing would be short but it also seems like its running around the egr...did you try pulling the vacuum like from around there and just place it over...I think it would fit with the extra slack. Either way...that line should be coming from wastegate>bpv> to connection C.

Also, I'd try disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery for 10 minutes...and press the brake pedal for 10 seconds just before you reconnect it. I think the ecu need to learned how things are connected now. It will take a few miles before the ecu..relearns.

Fix your hot pipe leak and then report back to us. Goodluck with your exams!

Then I think it is hooked up correct now. The line that is coming from the wastegate is connected to connection C now, it was connected to a connection further to the drivers side before where the valve or something that is fastened to the coldpipe is connected now.

Sure I can reset the ECU, I just got a new Stinger battery that I plan to install soon anyways, it is just a bit smaller than my original battery so I need to figure out a way to secure it properly.

I though I got a used SLS pipe from another forum member that parted out aftermarket parts on his MSP, but I haven't heard from him at all lately...
Between Turbohoses, SLS and Samco(hose), which one is better?

and nvmsp: seriously, my engine oil almost at the F mark, I check it at least once a month. Engine is not burning any oil and the oil warning light turns off the second I start the engine.

I'll let you guys know when I get a new hotpipe in my car.
Thanks for the help so far!

 

[Jaysanooch]

1.Take pictures of the vacuum line from the wastegate your talking about all the way to the intake mani....just to be sure.

2. Take pictures of your cold pipe connection to the bpv. Take pictures of the vauum line from the bpv. Note the bpv has an arrow on the bottow/underneath that needs to be pointing in the right direction. **With your luck...that also might be connected wrong.

Basically show us the complete route now starting from wastegate. It then should be T'ed off to the BPV and then continue with a shot to where it's hooked up now on the intake mani.

About which pipe or make is better for your Hot pipe dilemma....I think aluminum 2" diameter secured with silicone 2.25" couplers and 2.50" T-bolts is the way to go.

 

[Metallic36]

I'm having the same problems.. got my car back and I don't think mine is hooked up right either. I need to put the BPV on somehow and have no idea, I have a FMIC. Some of the vacuum lines are not hooked up at all, and some look like they may not be right. Can I add some pics?

 

[Jaysanooch]

You want the arrow pointing towards your intake pipe....the idea is that it holds boost and release into the intake.

 

[isbre]

Been a little busy today, mostly trying to understand the Fourier Series Method. I guess late is better than never though. I added a pic of how it looks now.

Tomorrow I am travelling back to the University and leaving the car in the garage. Next weekend I will reset the ECU and get the new battery in there. Short of knowing anybody that can weld I was thinking of cutting a piece of wood to fasten the new smaller battery, anybody got a better idea?

I'm having the same problems.. got my car back and I don't think mine is hooked up right either. I need to put the BPV on somehow and have no idea, I have a FMIC. Some of the vacuum lines are not hooked up at all, and some look like they may not be right. Can I add some pics?

If you have some lines not hooked up at all you might be even worse off than I was. Post som pics, it would be great if this thread could help more people than just myself
I haven't dealt with FMIC myself, but isn't there a nipple on the coldpipe to connect the BPV near the air intake?

 

[Metallic36]

Here are some pics..

I played around with it, just to start the progress..

There is a vacuum line that leads to the right side of the Boost Gauge Pressure thing (in the pics it would be on the front/top). On the Pressure thing, there is another line on the front side that goes from that to the IM. I assumed that the line on the right side would be an okay source. I'm assuming this is the line that measures the boost pressure.

I hooked it up wrong, I know, but from here it may be easier for me to understand what to do to fix it with some help.

The whole thing is a giant Y. From the boost pressure thing, there is a T. On the first side of the T is a line that goes to the WGA line. On the other side, this would go to the BOV. There were extra things on the T, so I connected another vacuum line which is basically doubling it up. I then connected another small piece of vacuum line to connect the Y in order to take care of the additional T ends. Like I said, I know it's wrong, I got bored and tired of trying to figure it out. I know I could tap into the U-shaped vacuum source on the right side of the mani for the WGA or the BOV, but need help on the rest.

 

[Jaysanooch]

That pressure thing your talking about is not for your boost gauge I'm afraid. That thing is usually for fuel pressure or oil pressure.

I was going to comment as to why your main vacuum line coming from the wastegate is going into the pressure sensor....and then I re-read what you wrote.

You need to take the line and bring directly to the IM and forget about the pressure thing. Someone must of had the fuel rail line bypassed to it for an in cabin fuel pressure gauge.

**And BTW...the vacuum line from your wastegate>bpv looks good. Just bring it directly to IM without going to pressure sender..like I indicate in the picture below.

 

[ForceFed]

That pressure thing your talking about is not for your boost gauge I'm afraid. That thing is usually for fuel pressure or oil pressure.

Usually..I agree you are right..but dependng on what gauge she has..it can be for boost pressure as well..Even though it would be a VERY uncommon setup.