Why 1 Step colder Spark plugs...which ones?

[43975]

I spent about an hour searching but couldn't find the answer. I'm trying to find out when you would start using the 1 step colder Plugs, and what they actually do to help. Also what would be the best option in plug. I'm running a Gt28RS at 6 psi, Forge WGA, SSQV, relocated MAF, ApexR1 Catless midpipe with stock MSP Cat-back, FMIC, K&N SRI.

 

[MSP 2731]

This is from the Modder's Guide: Mazdaspeed Protege Aftermarket Parts Listing thread, "Colder, copper spark plugs would be a wise investment if you're upping the boost in your MSP. Detonation (Pre-ignition, where the air/fuel mix in the cylinder burns before being lit by the spark plug) WILL cause damage to the motor. Why copper? Platinum plugs have a sharp tip and don't conduct enough heat away to prevent detonation at boost levels higher than stock. A copper spark plug has a wider tip that conducts heat much better, and may prevent you from messing up your motor." I read that when I first joined the forum and bought a set of NGK PZFR7G-G's. Unfortunately I have not run them yet so I can not give you a review on them but if you feel like doing some more reading, I found this thread which has way more info than I feel like reading through right now. http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88182

 

[BOOSTR]

Replace them if you want but unless the plugs you pull out show signs of evidence that the 6 series is not getting it done, I would not. Exception would be a built &tuned high power engine running over 10 psi all the time. Use copper over platinum or iridium for a hotter spark

 

[43975]

Well that's the thing. With the GT28Rs set at 6 psi, it's like I'm running 9-10 Psi on the stocker. So will the colder spark plug be better or not I'm still confused. Will running a colder plug have any Ill effects that I need to be aware of? I understand that the Colder plug will help decrease risk of detonation running a higher boost. But what about on my set-up?

 

[MSP2k3]

I am running 8-9psi with the mods below and i went ahead and changed to 1step colder plugs. I did not notice any ill-effects from doing so, everything is just as smooth as before. Guess i did it just to be on the safe side.

 

[43975]

I guess I'm looking for pros and cons...If any. Which MSP2k3 which plugs did you get?

 

[MSP2k3]

I am using NGK ZFR7FS 1 heat range colder than stock

 

[BOOSTR]

Well that's the thing. With the GT28Rs set at 6 psi, it's like I'm running 9-10 Psi on the stocker. So will the colder spark plug be better or not I'm still confused. Will running a colder plug have any Ill effects that I need to be aware of? I understand that the Colder plug will help decrease risk of detonation running a higher boost. But what about on my set-up?

You will find your answer by pulling out each one of your plugs and looking at them for signs of problems if any.

I just changed my plugs. 2nd set of NGK V powers stock #4291. Boost on these is 6.9 to 10. I've run up to 14 on the original plugs. No signs ever of problems on my plugs that I have changed.

Many people switch to a cooler plug. All I'm saying is you do not need to unless yours show signs of needing to be swapped for a cooler one. Unless of course you just want to switch for peace of mind based on non-issues.

 

[K. Soze]

I remember doing a lot of reading on spark plugs on there were quite a few people saying you don't REALLY need to go a step colder. However, it would be smart to go to copper.

I stayed in the stock heat range but got copper plugs. It's been doing well for me so far.

 

[MSP2k3]

I have not heard of anything bad that can happen by going 1 stage colder, correct me if im wrong.... so I just did it to be on the safe side.

 

[K. Soze]

Nah, nothing wrong with it. I got the Copper V-Power plugs (ZFR6F-11). I gapped them to .30. I was reading that a slighly tighter gap would help with blowout. I don't think I was having this problem before, but I figured with my upped boost and higher HP it would be nice to stray on the safe side.

 

[Kypatrick]

There are so many choices it almost boils down to personal preference. Just to throw my 2cents, I use the Autolite AR3923, they r a step colder and hav a copper core.

 

[43975]

So basically one step colder is for safety reasons and copper is also for safety to help reduce the risk of detonation. And running a copper one step colder plug will have no ill effects...basically no cons. If that's true...Everyone would be running them, wouldn't they? I'm trying to figure out why someone would't run them, since it's an added layer of motor safety and has no issues.

Also does the season matter. Should I run colder plugs in summer and regular plugs in winter?

 

[BOOSTR]

Running a cooler plug in an engine when its not needed could lead to fouling deposits which will not burn off as quickly as if the correct heat range plug is used. That would be a con. But that condition will only happen if you idle for extended periods or run at low rpms.

Copper plugs do not last as long as the other types. So the change interval is more frequent. But a set of 4 copper NGK V powers cost less than one of the other types of plugs. Peformance minded drivers will almost always choose a copper plug.

Again one of the best ways to check the adequacy of your plugs is to pull them out and look for signs of problems.

 

[justinlansdale]

i run/dyno'd with brand new NGK ZFR6F-11 gapped .020. i gapped them tighter to ensure i wouldn't get blow out on the dyno and i haven't had any blow out or problems with them at all.

 

[808MP5]

I put it one step colder plugs and all seems well. Like most I did it for peace of mind. Just one less reason for detenation

 

[BOOSTR]

Here's a chart that shows common plug conditions. Every plug that has come out of my engine has always looked normal. That has given me peace of mind over the 71K miles that it has endured.

http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm

 

[43975]

Very good info thank you!!!
BTW what is blow out??

 

[BOOSTR]

Very good info thank you!!!
BTW what is blow out??

A common term used (incorrectly) to explain problems related to ignition misfire.

"Firstly, electricity cannot be blown out in an engine because at the moment of combustion the air and fuel in the cylinder isnt moving very quickly when compared to when it enters the cylinder via the intake valve. Once the valve closes and the piston heads up toward top dead center the air/fuel mixture is forced into a tightly closed, highly compressed area and theres not much blowing happening. Shortly there after the spark plug passes the spark across its electrodes and Kablam, combustion. The term most likely arose from the experience of higher than stock turbo pressures attributing to ignition misfire. This is in fact reality but not from a blow out spark event. The result of ignition misfire is from the higher combustion pressure due to the higher turbo pressure, which packs more molecules of fuel and air into the same space making the ionization voltage of the spark plug rise to a level that the coil, wires, cap, rotor cannot support. Recall that ionization voltage is the initial voltage necessary to start the spark jump across the spark plug terminals. Once the gap is jumped and electricity begins to flow the voltage needed is now lower and this voltage is referred to as burn voltage. So, how to combat ignition misfires due to high cylinder pressure? First make sure your cars ignition system is in good shape. Replace the plugs and plug wires if they are old or worn out."

 

[Supra8795]

Is there anybody else out there running the copper autolites? I run them in my supra and love them. I do have to change them more often but they are cheap and reliable.