which oil do u recommend

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Autox MSP said:
synthtic is waste of money on a ecnobox. just change your oil every 3k or 3months you'll save hell alot of money. I've been using 10w30 cheap oil on my mazdaspeed and runs perfect. Friends dad's civic has 200k miles on it and still running strong with dino oil.


I would have to disagree based on the fact that 4 bangers tend to rev higher so it makes sense that better oil would help. That said I had a Sirocco that used dino changed every 7,500 miles and it had 265,000 miles on it when I sold it.

Personally, I use Amsoil and change it every 5-6000 miles with an OEM filter. I bought them at mazdastuff.com for like 5 bucks each.
 
mcstark said:
From what I've read in other forums, Royal Purple is the best. Mobil 1 is a synthetic based on dino oil, so it's not technically 100% synthectic. I use it in my wife's car, and figure if it's good enough for Porsche -- factory-speced in the 911 Turbo -- then it's good enough for me.

I'm going to give RP a shot in my P5 and see how expesive it gets -- plan to buy a case of it. I figure $5-6/qt is cheap insurance against future engine problems. I plan on driving this car until it dies, so I'd rather pay due diligence upfront.

Also, synthetics are the way to go if you live in a colder climate because they flow better at lower temperatures. Which is why I'll make the complete switch (brakes, power steering, tranny & engine oil) to synth in the Spring. That way I can compare how it runs throughout the Summer and Winter.

From what I've read here (and elsewhere), you can't beat the OEM filter; buy a few at a time and see if your dealer offers quantity discounts.

I personally like Redline the best as it can be had for around $6.50 for individual quarts around here. I figure you can't go wrong with either Royal Purple, Redline, or Amsoil. I run Mobil-1 in my old Nissan truck and it works well for that but I'm not sure as to wether it's a true synthetic, or a synthetic additive package in a dino carrier fluid. With how good the synthetics are, you're just plain stupid not to run them in your newer cars, especially engines like the one in the Mazda that rev so high. When you switch over your engine wear basically stops at that point. They're that good!
 
SWITCH to synthetic??? All vehicles made today come with synthetic oil in them from the factory.

FWIW, I use only Royal Purple 5W-30 in all of my motors except my SHO which gets Mobil1 5W-30.
 
p.s. on my mazdaspeed I changed the oil to RP at 2200 miles and noticed almost 7whp on the dyno.....same day the motor died also.....the two aren't related though!
 
Um, ok, wow.

All new cars do not come with synthetic oil. Only a few, Corvette, Viper, some MB's.

Mobil 1, NEO, Redline, Amsoil, Royal Purple, some Motul, are PAO basestocks with maybe some esters mixed in too (some Motuls and Redline). The Castrol synthetic that is only available at Autozone, only comes in 0W-30 weight, and says "Made in Germany" on the bottle is PAO/ester based too. These are true synthetics. I think the long life BMW oil you get from the dealer is too...

Everything else, I think, is a hydrocracked group III oil, and not considered synthetic. Not a bad oil, just overpriced.

Nowadays, in 2003, any API rated SL oil is just fine. The new SM rated oil due out this summer will be even better. This dino oil will work fine for most applications for prob up to 5000 miles.
 
Synthetics do flow better in cold weather. Try this $6 experiment - buy a quart of Mobil 1 and a $1.29 quart of dino. Put them both in your freezer overnight and see which one pours out easier in the morning. If you live in a cold climate, and do this test, you may be seeking out some true synthetic real soon.

Formulations and additive packs can vary a bit - Redline uses gobs of moly, Amsoil uses none.

If anyone cares, I use the German Castrol in my MP5.
 
Autox MSP said:
synthtic is waste of money on a ecnobox. just change your oil every 3k or 3months you'll save hell alot of money. I've been using 10w30 cheap oil on my mazdaspeed and runs perfect. Friends dad's civic has 200k miles on it and still running strong with dino oil.
Its obvious you have never pulled down a motor that runs on cheap oil like a turbo motor running high temp.Hate to buy your slug of a motor in time.
(first) for stupidity

(rockon)
 
O and i use AMSOIL 100% synthetic $100 for 5L imported all the way from USA love the stuff good for 40,000km but i replace every 20,000km because i like my car not like Autox msp.

(rockon)
 
I use nothing but Redline lubricants in my ride. As mentioned above, it is a true synthetic that is ester-based. Yes, Redline uses a s***-load of Mollydbundelum (whatever it's called). For those who don't know what molly is, its a compound similar to that used to coat pistons for anti-friction protection. In test after test, Redline oils retained more molly than most of your leading oils. I use 20W-50 for my motor which I know is pretty damn thick, but hey, those forged pistons aren't quiet. :D For my transaxle, I use Redline Super Light Shockproof Gear Oil. If you are putting any amount of extra torque on your transmission, then I would highly recommend this oil. Since I put it in, the gear crunching sound that I used to get has been pretty much eliminated. Shifts are smooth even under hard accelleration. I just shift sensibly, and let it fall into gear. No power shifts. A friend of mine named Andrew who drives a turbo Miata recommended the shockproof stuff to me. It has been a godsent! Over a year boosted, and my transmission is holding up great! As far as Royal Purple is concerned, I stopped using that. From what I hear from racers with experience, it doesn't stand up to high torque applications very well. As a matter of fact, when my FS-ZE lost all that oil on me, I was running RP. (hmm)
 
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Amsoil? Do a yahoo search and you will get tons of hits. pick your favorite, and enter the online store. The 5W-30 which is ASL, goes for $5.85 a quart.

I have it in my 03 Maxima now, and 8000 miles later, the oil on the dipstick is still golden and I can see thru it.
 
totttalled said:
Amsoil? Do a yahoo search and you will get tons of hits. pick your favorite, and enter the online store. The 5W-30 which is ASL, goes for $5.85 a quart.

I have it in my 03 Maxima now, and 8000 miles later, the oil on the dipstick is still golden and I can see thru it.

Thanks! Wow, 8k miles and it's still clear? That's amazing! So when do you change your oil and filter? 10k?

I've been using Mobil 1 since 6k miles and I don't think it's THAT good (of course better than regulare dino oil). I got it from wally for $19 for a 5 quart jug, so works out to $3.8 a quart. So $2 a quart more... hmm... let me think about it :)
 
For the first year of the car I use Factory Oil. But for the first oil change of the second year of the car I made the switch to Mobil 1 5w 30 synthetic.
 
yeah, the Amsoil looks like honey on the dipstick after 8000 miles. And no, I'm not a dealer!

Here is an interesting, real deal, no BS link about extended drains if anyone cares.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html

The Mobil 1 lasted 18,000 miles. Now they are testing Amsoil.

The oil filters on our MP5's are dang tiny. They are not, IMHO, up to an extended drain. I'll change mine about every 3000 miles and top off with new oil, then change the oil too about every 8000 or so. Oh wait, that didn't add up... something like that!
 
Oh, and to answer the thread! oops.

I changed mine to the German Castrol at 2800 miles. I know this is controversial. I did it anyway. There are good arguments on both sides about changing too early.

Even tho my Amsoil on my other car "looks" good at 8000 miles, I'm gonna drain it and test it soon just to make sure and go from there.
 
totttalled said:
The oil filters on our MP5's are dang tiny. They are not, IMHO, up to an extended drain.

Use the OEM filter for the 626 6cyl. It fits perfectly and is about 50% bigger.
 
amsoil is sold at my local parts store here..

its good but expensive...

if you have the money i would say use it..
 
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