which oil do u recommend

[leungwingkei]

Not many cars have synthetic oil as factory fill. The Ferrari 360 Modena, the BMW M3, Aston Martins, etc....

But lets face it, we drive a Mazda econobox. The FS-DE is not high revving (look at its 6500rpm redline), and doesn't run super high compression ratios (9:1). It's not a high performance engine. Using a synthetic oil may yield some benefits but to me, not enough to justify their cost unless you plan to drive the car for 15 years.

Mazda engine oil, I'm pretty sure is not synthetic. Maybe this is to keep oil changes cheap, but it's also saying that dino oil is more than sufficient for them to keep warranty costs down and helping Mazdas maintain the image as reliable cars.

When I get a BMW M3, I will then spend the extra dough for Mobil 1, and get high octane gas.

 

[leungwingkei]

I would advise MSP owners or anyone with a turbo to use synthetic oil for cooling the turbo which can get very hot.

 

[pingdum]

amsoil is sold at my local parts store here..

its good but expensive...

if you have the money i would say use it..

Amsoil
$5X 3.5=17.50+$5 for filter=22.50 lasts about 10k miles=.00225 cents a mile

Dino
$1.5 X 3.5=5.25+5=10.25 for about 3000miles=.0034 cents a mile

not to mention better gas mileage, less engine wear, etc.

 

[Douggie]

Amsoil
$5X 3.5=17.50+$5 for filter=22.50 lasts about 10k miles=.00225 cents a mile

Dino
$1.5 X 3.5=5.25+5=10.25 for about 3000miles=.0034 cents a mile

not to mention better gas mileage, less engine wear, etc.

Where can you get Amsoil for $5 a quart? I saw online that it's $5.85 a qt (for the ASL stuff) and that's before shipping.

 

[totttalled]

Use the OEM filter for the 626 6cyl. It fits perfectly and is about 50% bigger.

Thanks for that tip - I didn't know that.

 

[rookie]

On the gas mileage thing - I still need to switch the P5 to synt oil (will wait 3000 more miles).

But - on my 02 Altima, I noticed about 20-30 miles a tank more than with dino. It happened when I switched to synth originally. Then I had a recall done and dumb tech did not ask but filled it up with dino oil. At around the same time, I bought some new tires so I thought it was the tires...

Then I switched the oil back to Mobil 1 and am again getting about 20-30 miles more per tank. That is about 1 gallon in that car, so about $1.50 per tank less gas spent...

 

[pingdum]

Where can you get Amsoil for $5 a quart? I saw online that it's $5.85 a qt (for the ASL stuff) and that's before shipping.

I was being approximite.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Use the OEM filter for the 626 6cyl. It fits perfectly and is about 50% bigger.

(werd) These are all I use. They even fit with the MSP oil cooler installed.

 

[mcstark]

I use nothing but Redline lubricants in my ride. As mentioned above, it is a true synthetic that is ester-based. Yes, Redline uses a s***-load of Mollydbundelum (whatever it's called). For those who don't know what molly is, its a compound similar to that used to coat pistons for anti-friction protection. In test after test, Redline oils retained more molly than most of your leading oils. I use 20W-50 for my motor which I know is pretty damn thick, but hey, those forged pistons aren't quiet. For my transaxle, I use Redline Super Light Shockproof Gear Oil. If you are putting any amount of extra torque on your transmission, then I would highly recommend this oil. Since I put it in, the gear crunching sound that I used to get has been pretty much eliminated. Shifts are smooth even under hard accelleration. I just shift sensibly, and let it fall into gear. No power shifts. A friend of mine named Andrew who drives a turbo Miata recommended the shockproof stuff to me. It has been a godsent! Over a year boosted, and my transmission is holding up great! As far as Royal Purple is concerned, I stopped using that. From what I hear from racers with experience, it doesn't stand up to high torque applications very well. As a matter of fact, when my FS-ZE lost all that oil on me, I was running RP. (hmm)

By "high torque" I'm assuming you don't mean the stock P5 motor, which is what I have. No turbo, no headers....just stock.

I don't know the specifics of the engine problems you had, but surely it wasn't caused by the oil. No oil, changed properly, will cause an engine to fail; it may be a mitigating factor, but not the sole cause.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Being that my engine was from Japan, and used, I think that was a strong factor.

 

[70]

Oil thread #1,000,000....

***Edit***
Patiently awaits the flame for not adding anything worth while to this thread...Even though anything I could say has already been said about 5000 times in the other threads concerning the same topic, and has already been covered in this thread by other members...(flame)
***End Edit***

 

[LinuxRacr]

You are definitely right about that.