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Our Thumper kit uses a GT3037, it spools alittle faster than most would think.I think ddogg77 will have the most power.
Which intercooler on stock internals?
- Thread starter mspeed101
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HiBoost TS
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jurgs01 said:
It is not being scared about using nitrous. What I mean is that with the newer designed turbos you can boost real high pressures without going over the compressor efficiency like with the older style turbos. With the GT30 the spool time will be soon enough and the top end is going to be a lot better.
I have a Civic with a B18 that I was running with NOS and turbo at 22 psi with a Turbonetics stage III turbine and a TO4E super 57 trim. The car will not make any additional power after 22 psi, then we threw multifogger with 250 shot of nitrous. The car run very good and made 10.5 sec runs. Last year I replaced the turbo with a GT35R and the car now runs 30 psi of boost and runs 10.2 without the NOS. It is more reliable, more consistent and more powerful.
I think that the FS is very well capable of spooling the GT30R with the proper Turbine soon enough if the engine is well tuned.
I am not trying to be the fastest, I just want my car to be fast. Remember that the car itself is not fast. You need a fast car and a good driver.
not bad,but I was wondering why you run with factory pistons?why not use forged so you don't have to find that"OOP'S I think that was to much"point.
hypereutectic pistons are not made to work like that,when they do go,it will be real bad.
what are you doing with fuel,just larger injectors?
do you think the tranny will keep up,or go zoom,zoom,boom?
hypereutectic pistons are not made to work like that,when they do go,it will be real bad.
what are you doing with fuel,just larger injectors?
do you think the tranny will keep up,or go zoom,zoom,boom?
HiBoost TS
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That is why our P5 is not our daily driver car. It is a project car and we need to find out the limit. The only way is to try.
What do you mean about fuel? We have the Haltech and 42 lbs injectors. I think I will go with 50 lb/hr injectors when we change the turbo. Better fuel pump if needed.
About the tranny, it is a matter of driving methods. I have to be soft when launching and when shifting. We will also find out how much it takes.
Juan
What do you mean about fuel? We have the Haltech and 42 lbs injectors. I think I will go with 50 lb/hr injectors when we change the turbo. Better fuel pump if needed.
About the tranny, it is a matter of driving methods. I have to be soft when launching and when shifting. We will also find out how much it takes.
Juan
wicked said:
HiBoost TS said:
you consider adding a LSD?
about the fuel,I forgot about the injectors you had.
the pistons you offer,how did you lower compretion?add more dish?
just wondering,because I was looking at the factory pistons,and i noticed they don't have much room for meterial to be removed.
HiBoost TS
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wicked said:
I gave you a solution. Just get the stock ecu from any 2.0 protege (LX. ES, P5) which are very easy to get. That ECU will control the idle, speedometer, alternator and then the Haltech will do the rest. Yes. we add more dish, but you need to kow where to remove to not weaken the piston. Besides you need to to do a custom job for the circle clips of the floating pin, needed when using forged rods, plus cutting the wrist pin to fit between the circle clips.
that is a lot of work,just to use mazda pistons.good job.
I know I could have gotten another ECU used,in fact I did,but the price of a ECU,and a standalone+injectors was more than I felt I should spend.it would have been nearly the price of my engine.
besides I would rather run secondary injectors than bigger injectors.
I know I could have gotten another ECU used,in fact I did,but the price of a ECU,and a standalone+injectors was more than I felt I should spend.it would have been nearly the price of my engine.
besides I would rather run secondary injectors than bigger injectors.
HiBoost TS
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Well, forged pistons are expensive, need to re bore the block to the right clearance, they are noisy and are not inteneded for street use as the blow by is larger that normal. This is why forged pistons do not come in the cars from the factory.
wicked said:
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4001
HiBoost TS said:
Ive heard of JE pistons being noisy but IIRC Oliver pistons are machined extremely well and run rather smooth, Just wondering with pistons you were refering too or just all of them in general ?
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- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
You can hear the olivers alittle when cold.
Mental Addiction
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HiBoost TS said:
This is far from the truth.
Their are a few different forgings.4032 and 2618.
A 4032 contains 10% more silicone sand than a 2618..Many many manufactors use forged pistons in thier cars. Forged pistons have a much higher Tensile stength yield and Ultimate strength than a cast piston.Cast pistons are not designed to expand.Manufactors use cast because cast is by far cheaper than forged.And when you are doing 500,000+ engines a year every dollar counts.
2618 Aluminum expands roughly 15% more than 4032,thus the 2618's inital piston-to-wall clearance has to be 15% larger.The difference is most noticable at startup when the engine is cold.When the engine is cold the 2618 piston can rock back and forth producing a slight noise known as piston slap.Once the engine warms up the slap will go away because the aluminum expands.Both types of forgings have roughly the same clearances once the engine is warmed up.
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Mental Addiction
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BlkZoomZoom said:
What is your piston to wall clearance?Olivers rods are not making the noise.
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- Hemi Ram, 71 Plymth Scamp, 71 Plymth Duster 340, 69 Dart 340/4sp
lol. I meant Cp's.
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