its all good. i really dont mind. gives me some stuff to do since im free. but retros itself are pretty challenging, so id understand if some issues came up but atleast i know its something that can be fixed and Matt is local so us meeting up for solutions to problems i come up with is no biggie to me.
What have you done to your P5 today?
- Thread starter Tg5
- Start date
its all good. i really dont mind. gives me some stuff to do since im free. but retros itself are pretty challenging, so id understand if some issues came up but atleast i know its something that can be fixed and Matt is local so us meeting up for solutions to problems i come up with is no biggie to me.
WhiteKnight
Member
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- 07 Speed3
if I can find a decent price on a set, I'm thinking about it.
and you'll need a torch if you ever need to remove them.... (flame2)
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- 2002 Protege5
Had a scare Wednesday. Rough running, CEL, had it towed to my parents' house and the family friend/mechanic read the DTC as cyl4 misfire. He suspected either hydrolock (due to my intake) or destroyed piston rings ("due to high revs - you autocross, right?" (eek2)).
I had to get back to class (luckily my family always has an extra car for some reason - I got dad's 2nd gen Protege), but I got a call last night saying that it had passed a compression test and he was going to try swapping the two coils. I had assumed that the guy who works on cars for a living would have started out by checking the ignition system when the ECM indicated misfiring, but apparently not. Swapped the coils and the misfire moved to cyl2; replaced the coil and the car runs good as new. The guy just about gave me a heart attack thinking I'd need a rebuild. I've never been so relieved to have a bad coil.
I had to get back to class (luckily my family always has an extra car for some reason - I got dad's 2nd gen Protege), but I got a call last night saying that it had passed a compression test and he was going to try swapping the two coils. I had assumed that the guy who works on cars for a living would have started out by checking the ignition system when the ECM indicated misfiring, but apparently not. Swapped the coils and the misfire moved to cyl2; replaced the coil and the car runs good as new. The guy just about gave me a heart attack thinking I'd need a rebuild. I've never been so relieved to have a bad coil.
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A hydrolocked engine doesn't run... is your friend / mechanic retarded? Of course you start w/ plugs / wires / coils for a misfire... I'd also start by not letting this guy touch my car again (boom07)
Then use the blue LocTite. I just assumed it was a part that wouldn't need to be disassembled if they actually got it assembled correctly is all.
Blue LocTite, removable
Red Loctite, not so much. But they still come apart. I used to use both at the assembly shop I worked in. Great products.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
red loctite always comes apart for me....
they used it on the ends of my handle bars of my bike, it said to heat it up before removing but i just..removed it lol
it does make it a bit harder to remove though
Today..i didnt do s***, just let it sit in the driveway and relax, i need some new front rotors, these power slots have been on there for a while and the slots are almost completely gone lol
Understandable...but why not just secure all of them properly? not sure how you do it but it obviously isnt good enough if it fell out,
if i was making them, i would make sure they are in there ******* tight before i sent them off to anybody
but w.e, im not headlight "expert" like you
they used it on the ends of my handle bars of my bike, it said to heat it up before removing but i just..removed it lol
it does make it a bit harder to remove though
Today..i didnt do s***, just let it sit in the driveway and relax, i need some new front rotors, these power slots have been on there for a while and the slots are almost completely gone lol
Understandable...but why not just secure all of them properly? not sure how you do it but it obviously isnt good enough if it fell out,
if i was making them, i would make sure they are in there ******* tight before i sent them off to anybody
but w.e, im not headlight "expert" like you
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Rockin03mp5
Member
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- '13 Mazda3 / '13 Edge / Your Mom
lol
You must not have read the headache i went through with the TL headlights in my sedan housings I had Chico do. They went to PR and back i think 3 times. . . .
the other thing to consider, and it has nothing to do with the driver or car, but just imagine UPS taking said box of headlights and hurling it across the room. It happens. That's what broke the mounting tabs on mine. No fault of anyone involved in the process other than the shipper
But boo for pointing the finger on the retro.
Sh!t happens
/end rant
you can hydrolock a car, and if you are one of the 5 lucky people in the world, start it back up with little to no problems... but then again, it doesn't just happen while the car is running and just start running rough. the car will seize for a second and shut off. with the lucky ones, after it shuts off, you can just start it and drive... but i wouldn't recommend trying that as you could just damage the engine even more and even the tranny if in a manual
I have contemplated using LocTite but the question if whether or not it could come out after you put it on. I might try it from here on to see if that helps or not.
well yeah, hydrolock's not permanent, but WHILE hydrolocked, it is locked, as it were. Not running. Hydrolock's not going to cause a misfire. Neither will burnt rings. My point was that his 'mechanic' friend was an idiot, not that a hydroclocked engine can't be freed up (or won't free up by itself)
Blue loctite is what you want in 90% of any application that's not considered permanent. If you can forsee ever needing to pull it back apart, don't go w/ the red LOL
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
like i said, im no expert, ive never done a retro before, just throwing my opinion and thoughts out there
That's good to know. I'll invest in some here soon then.
I've used the blue stuff on just about everything. Flywheel bolts, extractor screws and cylinder pivots screws on guns, power valve screws on my Pathfinder, etc. Works like a charm, and CAN be removed.
