What have you done to your MSP today?

My best run from Sunday. Not bad for a super high mileage motor that is almost bone stock and all season tires.
 
Well, that answers my question.

He ''resealed'' it.

I guess, as long as you caught the failure early, this would suffice. Bur for someone who has had a "catastrophic" failure, you're S.O.L.
You can replace the bearings, as a cartridge or as balls... I just didn't need to.

Furthermore if the turbo has not been balanced after factory then you don't need to balance since the components are balanced individually. If you are still concerned mark the turbine shaft to the compressor wheel with something more permanent than a marker.
 
Well, that answers my question.

He ''resealed'' it.

I guess, as long as you caught the failure early, this would suffice. Bur for someone who has had a "catastrophic" failure, you're S.O.L.

I believe for my turbo all I need are new seals, but I think $200 for what you get in a rebuild kit is outrageous.


Today I went to a track day with some of my buddies that drift in the Lone Star drift pro-am series, makes me want a drift car. At least something RWD. Maybe I should actually consider getting rid of one of these MSPs... I get way too attached to my s***
 
I believe for my turbo all I need are new seals, but I think $200 for what you get in a rebuild kit is outrageous.


Today I went to a track day with some of my buddies that drift in the Lone Star drift pro-am series, makes me want a drift car. At least something RWD. Maybe I should actually consider getting rid of one of these MSPs... I get way too attached to my s***
Not outrageous for the precision. If you just need the seals and rings its $25
 
Where from? I can only find complete kits with the new cartridge and bearings for around $200.

I wouldn't mind replacing a seal but it's impossible to know if it will fix it and I certainly don't want to spend money and time removing, rebuilding and reinstalling the turbo to have it still be bad.
 
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You can replace the bearings, as a cartridge or as balls... I just didn't need to.

Furthermore if the turbo has not been balanced after factory then you don't need to balance since the components are balanced individually. If you are still concerned mark the turbine shaft to the compressor wheel with something more permanent than a marker.

If you had it disassembled to that point, why would you not install brand new bearings?

Have you done it successfully on the GT2554R? If so, do you have a part number and supplier from where you sourced the parts? I've looked on eBay a few times to see. And the only kits I see are for the GT28/30/35. I've looked at various turbo suppliers sites and haven't seen anything either. If I could potentially repair it for $300 or less, I'd fix at least one so I'd have a back up.
 
Every kit I saw was labeled T25, T28, T30, T35 so they may use the same parts.



Forgot I went to the junkyard yesterday bc they said they had 7 new 01-03 proteges, I got a fuel rail off a 626 for my FSZE mani as well. Looks like I will have to buy some fuel line and run new hoses for the rail. And got a 1/2" cap at home depot to cap the EGR hose on the turbo mani, may do it to both MSPs.
 
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If you had it disassembled to that point, why would you not install brand new bearings?

Have you done it successfully on the GT2554R? If so, do you have a part number and supplier from where you sourced the parts? I've looked on eBay a few times to see. And the only kits I see are for the GT28/30/35. I've looked at various turbo suppliers sites and haven't seen anything either. If I could potentially repair it for $300 or less, I'd fix at least one so I'd have a back up.
For the exact reason horns doesn't want to invest into his turbo. Money.

Put it this way, I am a student on a budget and cannot invest the kind of money I see some people on the forums are throwing at their cars. For that reason, my approach is very conservative and this far has gotten me a turbo p5 for a 3 digit cost, that's including the car.

Once again, let me put the turbo in my car and test it before I give any more details. This will allow me to help you guys out without risk.
Every kit I saw was labeled T25, T28, T30, T35 so they may use the same parts.



Forgot I went to the junkyard yesterday bc they said they had 7 new 01-03 proteges, I got a fuel rail off a 626 for my FSZE mani as well. Looks like I will have to buy some fuel line and run new hoses for the rail. And got a 1/2" cap at home depot to cap the EGR hose on the turbo mani, may do it to both MSPs.
That is exactly why they are labeled like that, they all have the same center section cartridge.
 
How did you do compared to other cars? Do you have the times?
I was the only car in SMF. The other cars I usually compete with ran 37.6 and my other car is way quicker than this one. I could list a bunch of reasons why, but it will be easier to show you from a video point of view when the other car is done again.
 
Going to pick up a rebuild kit for the journal bearing t28 and an open diff Probe transmission this weekend from Pull-A-Part I think.

I MUST do something with my Steedspeed! It looks awful and now is the time to clean it up and put a coat of high-temperature paint on it. Hopefully following the directions precisely will guarantee that it adheres and stays.
 
And got a 1/2" cap at home depot to cap the EGR hose on the turbo mani, may do it to both MSPs.
I've been considering this. Especially since my current EGR tube is a "custom" one for my previously installed eBay Thunder manifold. It works, but it was welded while on the car, so the welds aren't pretty. I've got a couple of extra EGR tubes that I could use. Is it just 1/2" NPT?
 
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Edit: Amazing what clay baring, polishing and waxing will do...


me liiiike. Well done sir!
 
No, but every time I get a full alignment the say the rear camber is off on the protege and it can not be adjusted with out a aftermarket part. I've had three and they said the same thing.

I call BS on that one. There's a bolt on the rear lateral/parallel arms that are used to change rear camber. I took mine to a shop and had them change front to max negative and rear to -.5 degrees and they had no problem doing it.
 
Really, I thought it changed camber. Guess that bolt then must only move the rear lateral arm and not both. Guess I just never worried about it because they got the rears where I wanted without needing any parts.
 
I call BS on that one. There's a bolt on the rear lateral/parallel arms that are used to change rear camber. I took mine to a shop and had them change front to max negative and rear to -.5 degrees and they had no problem doing it.

While the camber can be slightly adjusted, that is not what those are for- they are for toe adjustment.
 
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