What have you done to your MSP today?

yeah the guy was mad cool about it, i guess he charges $67 an hr no matter what the job is and basicly does everything, his son races and he built and works on his race car as well. he had it out back and showed me, pretty sick car. so ill prob be bringing my car back there for other stuff most likely ....

Only $67/HR?!? And he specializes in "race" vehicles?!?!! I charge $87/HR. Hell, the specialty race shops around here charge about $100/HR....
 
i know right, im so glad i stopped in there to get a quote and then find out they do everything there. and for a great deal as well. they are a more word of mouth type of place low key, but on a main rode at the same time lol
 
They had a mazda 3 there they were doing an engine swop on... didnt ask what engine they were putting in though, prob should of
 
Only $67/HR?!? And he specializes in "race" vehicles?!?!! I charge $87/HR. Hell, the specialty race shops around here charge about $100/HR....

No, neither Edge, High Velocity, Fastech, or OTT charge that much an hour, man. Just saying.

Now LNS, ACC, or EAG may charge that much, but they specialize in European performance.
 
No, neither Edge, High Velocity, Fastech, or OTT charge that much an hour, man. Just saying.

Now LNS, ACC, or EAG may charge that much, but they specialize in European performance.
I was meaning, more specifically, European Auto Garage and/or EuroTech... I don't keep up with the other places. Is High Velocity still open?

Euromot was, too, but he's about to go under. The equipment company actually came and removed the arms off of his lifts because he wasn't paying his lease. He had an F355 engine pulled for a rebuild for about two years, the guy had already paid in full for the rebuild, but I guess they decided to spend the money on other things than the parts for the rebuild.
 
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No, neither Edge, High Velocity, Fastech, or OTT charge that much an hour, man. Just saying.

Now LNS, ACC, or EAG may charge that much, but they specialize in European performance.

I was just thinking about it, and I'd be willing to bet that tunes and dyno hourly rates are $100 or more... I know that's not R&R labor times, but it still applies.

I'm $87/hr R&R time for the most part. If its a classic or specialty vehicle, I add $10/hr. MIL or drivability problems generally run $132/hr. Again, we specialize in European, but not performance oriented.
 
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I was just thinking about it, and I'd be willing to bet that tunes and dyno hourly rates are $100 or more... I know that's not R&R labor times, but it still applies.

I'm $87/hr R&R time for the most part. If its a classic or specialty vehicle, I add $10/hr. MIL or drivability problems generally run $132/hr. Again, we specialize in European, but not performance oriented.

First off, no one around here can tune worth a damn. Secondly, we were talking about mechanical labor, not tuning or dynoing. Just as a FYI most of the performance shops around here are $65-$70/hr.

Oh, and yeah, High Velocity is open. They just bought and installed a dyno this year.
 
Secondly, we were talking about mechanical labor, not tuning or dynoing.

I know that's not R&R labor


First off, no one around here can tune worth a damn.
No one said anything about the "quality" of a tune... Just the fact that they're charging $100 or more, in all likelihood.

Oh, and yeah, High Velocity is open. They just bought and installed a dyno this year.
It's pretty irrelevant if they "[can't] tune worth a damn"
 
No one said anything about the "quality" of a tune... Just the fact that they're charging $100 or more, in all likelihood.


It's pretty irrelevant if they "[can't] tune worth a damn"

True, and true. lol, Knoxville sucks. I'm better off tuning my car myself, rather than take it to anyone around here.

Tax time I am making a trip out to NC to get the car dyno tuned by Joseph Davis (pretty well known tuner), if that tells you anything about the quality of performance shops around here (I've seen shotty work first-hand from almost all of them). Now, other than dyno tuning, I can do everything on my own ("With a little help from my friends."), so I'm not paying anyone to turn a wrench for me anymore.
 
Finally got my SSAFC, went to get some vacuum line to install it but had to settle for rubber line because that's all they had. I also don't have a soldering iron or know how to solder so i'm just gonna crimp the wires for now. I am too excited and anxious to install it so i'm not going to worry about soldering it or getting silicone vac line for now, i'm sure it will last just fine i have used crimp connectors for years and have never had one fail.
 
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Finally got my SSAFC, went to get some vacuum line to install it but had to settle for rubber line because that's all they had. I also don't have a soldering iron or know how to solder so i'm just gonna crimp the wires for now. I am too excited and anxious to install it so i'm not going to worry about soldering it or getting silicone vac line for now, i'm sure it will last just fine i have used crimp connectors for years and have never had one fail.

Blastphemy, do it one time. Soldering is cheap and easy to do. last thing you want is teh first crimp failure of your life to happen on your tune....
 
Finally got my SSAFC, went to get some vacuum line to install it but had to settle for rubber line because that's all they had. I also don't have a soldering iron or know how to solder so i'm just gonna crimp the wires for now. I am too excited and anxious to install it so i'm not going to worry about soldering it or getting silicone vac line for now, i'm sure it will last just fine i have used crimp connectors for years and have never had one fail.

x2 on what velocifero said. Crimp connectors can work in certain situations very well but between the size of the wires your dealing with and an ECU's sensitivity to added resistance that crimp connectors have the ability to add solder is the only way to go.
 
I had mine clipped and it worked well for a while. When it started giving problems I just soldered it in. It was a good run but the car almost didnt make it home.
 
That is really what I am saying, it is one thing to have your radio go out or turbo timer or hell even your electronic gauge disrupted because of a failed crimp, but to have the tuning equipment you are using to run your car at a higher, safer level, just not worth the risk in my opinion. Rubber hose doesn't bother me and I would install it for the mean time while I waited for silicone, but a drive to radioshack, fry's, walmart or the sorts to spend <$10 on everything you'd need to solder and an extra 2 minutes to watch a soldering video on youtube is well worth the security in knowing a job done (better) right. Hit me up if you want some soldering tips. Tip #1, don't buy the COLDHEAT soldering iron, yes it works but it is a pain to keep consistent and the tips break easily. Get a regular ole HI-LO setting iron. In the end, we all say it, it's your car and you do as you please, but take it form experience as someone who used to not really care about soldering, it is well worth it. Good luck regardless. I think once you install it once yo uwill not want to mess with re-doing it.
 
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