What have you done to your MSP today?

hornsfan10609 said:
I was just driving and my car completely died while going about 70 down the highway in 5th. It has power and will crank but will not start, it didn't overheat, the clutch engages, it doesn't make any noises and there is no oil or anywhere or holes in the block. Did the LSD go? I'm thinking maybe the MAF or cam position sensor, if either of those went out the car would crank but not start right? It threw a CEL but i'm waiting for my buddy to get here with his code reader to find out. I've got my fingers crossed and i'm thinking positively but I have a bad feeling.
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The car would still start if the diff went
 
OK codes are P0113 and P0171. I know the P0113 is because I had the IAT sensor plugged in and just dangling in the engine compartment and it was 103 today. I know I need to drill a hole in my cold pipe and mount this thing because apparently it can cause the ECU to pull or add timing based on it's reading. And the P0171 the car has thrown pretty much since I bought it exactly a year ago, so maybe the MAF just completely died. I don't think the cam sensor is bad, I cleaned it up and the wires are all intact. I replaced the crank sensor a couple months ago because some of the wire insulation on the stock one had been damaged.
Another option I heard was the timing teeth breaking off somehow with aftermarket crank pulleys, I did install a used V1 Medieval lightweight crank pulley a few months ago. I need to get back to the car to check all this out but at least I am pretty sure the drivetrain is still intact.
The car will crank and all the accessories spin but just won't fire, as if the ECU wasn't getting a MAF, crank, or cam signal. All the fuses, especially fuel pump relay and fuse seem to be fine and the alarm wouldn't even let it crank so it's not the problem. Others with the same issue have had the EGR pipe melt an O2 sensor wire and blow a fuse, or the cam sensor die.
I'm leaning towards the MAF if the crank pulley is still in one piece.
 
I tried cranking with all 3 the cam, crank and MAF sensors disconnected (one at a time) and still nothing. I just got back from checking it out again and the timing marks on the Medieval lightweight crank pulley are separated from the pulley. So no crank signal killed the motor and is keeping it from starting. Going back in the morning to put the stock pulley back on and I hope the sensor isn't damaged. It's a damn shame too, $50 and a few hours of time down the drain. And I actually noticed the crank pulley, the car did feel slightly faster so I want to find a V2 or if there are other brands out there. At least I don't have to blow almost $300 on a new MAF.

Thanks for the help guys, I was absolutely stumped for a few hours. The car shouldn't just break down while driving but as usual the reason it broke was because of something I did to modify it.
 
Now I find a bunch of threads that say the V1 PS and crank pulleys are prone to breaking. (bang)
I'm done buying Medieval parts after reading so much about them, looks like an Unorthodox or RR-Racing UDP may fit the bill nicely, if I can find one.
 
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I believe you can tell which kind, I have a Medieval PS pulley too lol. I know my crank pulley is solid aluminum and the V2 and V3 have holes cut out. I got the PS pulley recently when I bought mounts from them but they threw it in free so it could be any version really.

Apparently other company's lightweight crank pulleys can also break and separate like mine did. I'm keeping the stocker for now.
 
sucks that your s*** broke, well lets hope mine doesnt break, at least if it breaks i can still drive.

have you contacted medieval or did they shut down?
 
I bought it from Nk2a and I seriously doubt Minerva or whatever they call themselves now will respond since it's a V1. I wonder if I can get a V3, I wouldn't be afraid to run another lightweight pulley with some loc-tite on the bolts but I don't want to risk oil pump problems with a UDP.

As for the V1 vs V2 PS pulley, V1 is on the bottom in this pic and V2 is on the top. That is also the same V1 crank pulley I have.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=162063&d=1266096766
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=162064&d=1266096766
 
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BHJ Engineering Pulley, a little pricey but I think worth it.

030.jpg

028.jpg

029.jpg
 
destineal said:
2nd and 3rd sound better to me.
Click to expand...
The first insert is what I have, or the second sound, the first sound is completely open.

o0n8 said:
BHJ Engineering Pulley, a little pricey but I think worth it.
Click to expand...

That is nicer than any one i've come across yet, it's just lightweight, not underdriven? I will have to look for one, I would probably use a Medieval V2 or V3 if I could.
 
hornsfan10609 said:
That is nicer than any one i've come across yet, it's just lightweight, not underdriven? I will have to look for one, I would probably use a Medieval V2 or V3 if I could.
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yeah lighter, Gross Weight=4.65lbs. incl. Trigger wheel (O.E.M. damper weighs 5.1lbs.) but also dampens crankshaft torsional, axial and radial vibrations like stock.
 
is protege garage no longer a sponsor on the forums? I dont see that they have their own section anymore...
 
o0n8 said:
yeah lighter, Gross Weight=4.65lbs. incl. Trigger wheel (O.E.M. damper weighs 5.1lbs.) but also dampens crankshaft torsional, axial and radial vibrations like stock.
Click to expand...

wow, you have got to be the first person ive seen with one of those. those things are retarded expensive lol
I guess your paying for quality though, I had a OBX and one of the allen bolts holding the trigger wheel on backed out and destroyed my timing case and crank sensor in the process. I put the stocker on and im never looking back
 
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