What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Just finished wiring up my AEM F/IC. Very excited and nervous at the same time lol. My ECU wiring was pretty hacked up BEFORE I installed this, and yea I should have got an extension harness but I don't plan on removing this bad boy even if I sell the car because it is such a hassle. Anyway, I'm loading the software on my netbook, then i'm off to go see if all is well. Wish me luck!
boostedprotege
Member
- :
- 2003 mazda protege dx/2003 mazda protege5
misfire cud be sparkplug, wires or coils.. check those first.. as for your o2 problem check to see if its connected and the wires are good cud be a short
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Ok well I went to start it up after fooling with the software a bit annnnnnnnd no go 
It cranks good and wants to start, but just won't turn over. I'm assuming I have a CEL as it doesn't go off when I crank it, but avast I have no reader (need to get one of those). For the record, I unhooked the battery and touched nothing else in the engine bay during the installation. Now here is where the flaming starts... I used crimp connectors for most of the connections because I am a noob at soldering and well, crimps are just easier. I'm thinking they could be my problem.
It cranks good and wants to start, but just won't turn over. I'm assuming I have a CEL as it doesn't go off when I crank it, but avast I have no reader (need to get one of those). For the record, I unhooked the battery and touched nothing else in the engine bay during the installation. Now here is where the flaming starts... I used crimp connectors for most of the connections because I am a noob at soldering and well, crimps are just easier. I'm thinking they could be my problem.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Ok well I went to start it up after fooling with the software a bit annnnnnnnd no go
It cranks good and wants to start, but just won't turn over. I'm assuming I have a CEL as it doesn't go off when I crank it, but avast I have no reader (need to get one of those). For the record, I unhooked the battery and touched nothing else in the engine bay during the installation. Now here is where the flaming starts... I used crimp connectors for most of the connections because I am a noob at soldering and well, crimps are just easier. I'm thinking they could be my problem.
It cranks good and wants to start, but just won't turn over. I'm assuming I have a CEL as it doesn't go off when I crank it, but avast I have no reader (need to get one of those). For the record, I unhooked the battery and touched nothing else in the engine bay during the installation. Now here is where the flaming starts... I used crimp connectors for most of the connections because I am a noob at soldering and well, crimps are just easier. I'm thinking they could be my problem.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Well yea I did use a proper crimp tool. It's a wire cutter and crimp tool in 1. I'm thinking I should check the injector connections first. It could also have something to do with 1 of the wires that the AFC used. Oh and here is the awesome idiot proof guide I found that proves I am an idiot since I still goofed something up LOL.
Here is the actual thread on the AEM forums:
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,24419.0.html
I just realized that the guy who posted it is having the same problem... so I guess the diagram has a flaw.
Here is the actual thread on the AEM forums:
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,24419.0.html
I just realized that the guy who posted it is having the same problem... so I guess the diagram has a flaw.
got my hotpipe made, coldpipe cut. car is pshing all over the place now =) ill show off the pipe when i clean it up a bit and paint it maybe lol. welds are pretty ugly, but accomplished without a tig welder, jbweld or duct tape lol.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
lol thats a win.
technoweld is kinda nice. its like smearing on sculpting clay.. once you make the initial joint you can just pile more on. scrape it around with the stainless abrader however you like.
its on the car right now but i plan to take both pipes off and file the welds down and paint everything.
these are definitely ghetto looking compared to even couplers, but the pipes i was using werent even perfectly round after cutting/being banged around. variablility that couplers wouldn't have worked well with.
its on the car right now but i plan to take both pipes off and file the welds down and paint everything.
these are definitely ghetto looking compared to even couplers, but the pipes i was using werent even perfectly round after cutting/being banged around. variablility that couplers wouldn't have worked well with.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
one of my pipes was banged pretty hard on the pavement, and is far from round, the coupler takes up the difference nicely though. glad to hear you went a different route. lookin forward to pics.
Well yea I did use a proper crimp tool. It's a wire cutter and crimp tool in 1. I'm thinking I should check the injector connections first. It could also have something to do with 1 of the wires that the AFC used. Oh and here is the awesome idiot proof guide I found that proves I am an idiot since I still goofed something up LOL.
Here is the actual thread on the AEM forums:
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php/topic,24419.0.html
I just realized that the guy who posted it is having the same problem... so I guess the diagram has a flaw.
Try this: Unplug the MAF connector, and start the car. See if it at least stays started. It will default to the stored tables in the ECU ( safe mode ). Did you have to, or did you wire in a resistor on the MAF in wire ?
well, i actually ****** one up lol. i was cutting one of the bends on my hotpipe and the saw caught it, flung it into the wall. luckily i had another L pipe that was like. the perfect size.
couplers WOULD have worked.. but i had all these pipes, but not enough couplers/tbolt clamps. would have been $50 or more in clamps ect so thought id try this.
this was stuff i got to fill the rash in my wheels. but that will take like... 45 minutes of baking in an oven to get enjough heat into the damn things to actually weld them with stuff, or an entire bottle of map gas for one wheel.
couplers WOULD have worked.. but i had all these pipes, but not enough couplers/tbolt clamps. would have been $50 or more in clamps ect so thought id try this.
this was stuff i got to fill the rash in my wheels. but that will take like... 45 minutes of baking in an oven to get enjough heat into the damn things to actually weld them with stuff, or an entire bottle of map gas for one wheel.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Well luckily the AEM has a bypass plug that will let me disconnect the unit from the wiring harness and run right from the ECU, so if I am having problems (as I am now) I can just unplug it and still be able to drive the car. Awesome feature if you ask me. I did not wire in a resistor as I wasn't sure if I would need one, and I did not have one in the box. When the AEM is plugged in, the car will crank but won't turn over. So you think the MAF wire could be the issue?
Well anytime we had to wire in a piggyback or something, we always had to put in a pull down resistor because the MAF voltage would be too high. The factory ecu has one on it's input circuitry... Try starting it like I told you and see if it does anything.
boostedprotege
Member
- :
- 2003 mazda protege dx/2003 mazda protege5
Hey question for anyone who may know... If there is a msp wit stock turbo pushin 14psi n a msp with a gt28 pushin 14psi both same mods and tuned will they make the same power?
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Is that a test? The 28 can push more air at 14psi whereas the stock turbo is pretty much out of breath by then so the 28 will make more power.
