What have you done to your MSP today?

so im getting my car ready for fl. gonna be putting a slim fan in this weekend along with modifying my coolant lines, medieval mms, and maybe even my ss clutch line(even if i cant afford a new clutch slave cyl). also will be washing and waxing the car and vacuming it out. have it all nice and clean for fl! also gonna have to get 2 new tires in the rear after popping one last weekend. been trying to find 2 215/40 or 215/45 used tires but no luck. cause after the first of the year ill be buying 4 new tires to go on my new wheels;)
 
so im getting my car ready for fl. gonna be putting a slim fan in this weekend along with modifying my coolant lines, medieval mms, and maybe even my ss clutch line(even if i cant afford a new clutch slave cyl). also will be washing and waxing the car and vacuming it out. have it all nice and clean for fl! also gonna have to get 2 new tires in the rear after popping one last weekend. been trying to find 2 215/40 or 215/45 used tires but no luck. cause after the first of the year ill be buying 4 new tires to go on my new wheels;)

I have 2 215/45/17s, one of which had a nail, and they do not match. You can have them for shipping if you want em.
 
I was hitting the fuel cut hard this winter (new hard pipes, upgraded SMIC, catless race pipe, MBC set at 8 psi, and Injen cold air intake), so I took off the cold air extension and that seams to help out a lot. No longer getting the fuel cut, but I'm also not on it as much since it's so cold out and traction is hard to put down with cold tires in second and third. I plan to relocate the MAF unit when I get enough green backs to also get a new blow valve to replace the bypass valve. I think this will help to get rid of the issue for next year and be able to keep the cold air extension on.

Question, if I do get the new blow off what works better? Having the blow off before or after the relocated MAF?
 
I was hitting the fuel cut hard this winter (new hard pipes, upgraded SMIC, catless race pipe, MBC set at 8 psi, and Injen cold air intake), so I took off the cold air extension and that seams to help out a lot. No longer getting the fuel cut, but I'm also not on it as much since it's so cold out and traction is hard to put down with cold tires in second and third. I plan to relocate the MAF unit when I get enough green backs to also get a new blow valve to replace the bypass valve. I think this will help to get rid of the issue for next year and be able to keep the cold air extension on.

Question, if I do get the new blow off what works better? Having the blow off before or after the relocated MAF?

The MAF needs to be between the TB and BOV. There is a how to thread on relocating if I'm not mistaken.
 
the point of relocating the maf is to allow you to blow off unmetered air. the MAF has to go between the BOV and the TB.

anything is possible, but I wouldn't expect relocating to have any effect on fuel cut.
 
No. Fuel cut is when your just drivin alobg and your motor like.... Shuts off for a split second due to overboost. Not a pleasant feeling.

Then WTF is wrong with my car, when holding the pedal constant the car feels like it hesitates, around 3500 rpm and it bucks slightly. Sometimes it pulls fine and runs good and most of the time it has hesitation. It cant just be the stock tune, will an incorrectly adjusted wastegate cause this? I installed a Forge WGA not long ago and tried to make the rod as close to the stock length as possible.
 
I dont know enough about these cars to answer your question but i might have had something similar. Get on it, boost comes on and its like your pytting the brakes on.

Ive def learned this is not a car you can jyst stomp on. Hell my auto p5 had more that way.
 
I dont know enough about these cars to answer your question but i might have had something similar. Get on it, boost comes on and its like your pytting the brakes on.

Ive def learned this is not a car you can jyst stomp on. Hell my auto p5 had more that way.

I am used to V8s so I definitely had to change my driving style from pedal mashing to having much more finesse when I got this thing. My 5 speed P5 wouldn't hold a candle to this car, unless the MSP was badly hesitating. I know they run smoother with less throttle but something must be wrong. I don't want to buy a FIC or AFC to find out.
 
Then WTF is wrong with my car, when holding the pedal constant the car feels like it hesitates, around 3500 rpm and it bucks slightly. Sometimes it pulls fine and runs good and most of the time it has hesitation. It cant just be the stock tune, will an incorrectly adjusted wastegate cause this? I installed a Forge WGA not long ago and tried to make the rod as close to the stock length as possible.

sounds like a spark problem to me. Then I'd say maybe a vac problem, then maybe fuel. WGA is not on my short list of problems though.

I know they run smoother with less throttle but something must be wrong. I don't want to buy a FIC or AFC to find out.

Please PLEASE don't put a piggyback on a car that is not running right to begin with. That is a good portion of how the unichip got a bad name. In order to step up your game, you need to make sure what you're working with is solid first.
 
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You almost have to if you want the thing to run right. Im on the fence on which to get. Necer wired a car so leaning to ssafc though if the fic had more support i might try it out. Has more funtionaly from what ive read.
 
we got some snow today...the msp was slipping and sliding all over the place. probably should invest in a set winter wheels/tires at some point...
 
You almost have to if you want the thing to run right. Im on the fence on which to get. Necer wired a car so leaning to ssafc though if the fic had more support i might try it out. Has more funtionaly from what ive read.

I guess I disagree. I went tuned, and because I have no interest in the car being after, it really didn't do anything for me. Other than fuel cutting in the cold, my car runs just fine. More to my point though, if you have other problems to begin with (stumble, misfire, etc), a tune is NOT going to be the magical solution that some people seem to believe it is.

Best money i ever spent for sure ^

agreed. one of my local buddies thinks that snow tires are stupid because "you only have to drive on snow 10-15 times a year and they handle like garbage on dry pavement". For those times, its an absolute godsend.
 
Uhhh my ws60's are pretty good on dry. Awesome in wet. Just has to be cold. Sure, cant peel around every corner on 3 wheels at 90 in the winter but come on...

So how many cars has your buddy crashed ;)?

As for tubed ect, i dont know anything about tuning cars. Just go by what i read here about my car and what works for it. For the most part my car runs fine. Short of the cracked manifold banshee screamer, busted bpv fitting "all me" and the usual msp heataches. But its never been in the shop or odf the road unless i was fixing something. Considering how finicky some other desireable cars are , i consider myself as having a pretty reliable car.

Which will change when i have the money for big mods like forged engine, bigger turbo ect.
 
Then WTF is wrong with my car, when holding the pedal constant the car feels like it hesitates, around 3500 rpm and it bucks slightly. Sometimes it pulls fine and runs good and most of the time it has hesitation. It cant just be the stock tune, will an incorrectly adjusted wastegate cause this? I installed a Forge WGA not long ago and tried to make the rod as close to the stock length as possible.

I would get a wideband if you don't already have one, so you can see how bad your Air/Fuel ratios plummet when you get hesitation. I have had hesitation plenty of times and every time I look at my wideband when it hesitates... it's flashing 10.0 because my gauge can't read any lower than that lol. I adjusted my tune after my car started bucking on me and that fixed it. Wagon said the tune doesn't cure everything and he's right, but it definitely helps. Assuming you don't have any boost, vacuum, or any other kind of leak.. a tune should fix your problem.
 
i think a tune is the best investment (next to forged motor) that someone with a boost protege can do
ive never had my car without it, but i love how it pulls, never had any problems with it, its a bit iffy sometimes with the afc

the FIC would def be worth the extra timing adjustment if you really want to get crazy with the car and still keep it safe
 
Just added another item on the long wish list of repairs needed to the MSP.. *( Stupid PS Pump... Hopefully it will last tell i find a job. lol
 

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