What have you done to your MSP today?

I just saw a diff last weekend that sheared itself so clean you couldn't tell anything was wrong with it
Yep... It's the diff... I put the ring gear in a vice, put a breaker bar into the center section and got it to turn freely...
 
My welder is welding it right now... We're going to put it back together... At least I'll kind of have a back up transmission...
 
My welder is welding it right now... We're going to put it back together... At least I'll kind of have a back up transmission...

Welded-Differential.jpg


WINNING!!!!!!!!!!
 
Why is the pinion gear welded to the ring gear? LOL

He wants to weld the spider gears together... LOL I'm like this isn't a ******* Camaro!
 
broke diff.... trust me mine did the exact same thing.

Edit: see this post.. I thought my clutch was shot at first due to being able to still move the car down the road but my diff was shot
http://tinyurl.com/cross-over-thread
No, I know it's the diff... I put it into a vice and put a pry bar in the center section and got it to spin freely...
 
I'm guessing Pope hasn't shipped my transmission... He said he'd send it out the first of the week... Whenever I freight transmissions and engines for the shop for that distance it normally takes 2 days...
 
I'm guessing Pope hasn't shipped my transmission... He said he'd send it out the first of the week... Whenever I freight transmissions and engines for the shop for that distance it normally takes 2 days...

he is probably busy with his manifolds and the last few downpipes that were ordered. Some of us ordered downpipes at the beginning of the month and some of them still haven't been made and shipped yet. I would give him a few more days as he is probably beyond busy.
 
looks really good in the pic 323. i really like the es wheel. may have to steel my dads. lol

im gonna paint them bronze and you're gonna hate it! lol jk. imma keep them as is. they're a pretty simple and clean design for a wheel. good backup set
 
he is probably busy with his manifolds and the last few downpipes that were ordered. Some of us ordered downpipes at the beginning of the month and some of them still haven't been made and shipped yet. I would give him a few more days as he is probably beyond busy.

I know. Just missing the car and the transmission is pulled waiting for it to g in. Taking up a bay in my shop, too. But that's fine, he told me up front he was busy!
 
Because of the uncertainty of this junkyard engine I have decided to wait, and do an OEM rebuild on the replacement. Going to wait until Christmas bonus time, and just buy everything at once. Until then I am going to remove my enine, and clean up the engine bay while it's empty. May paint the bay flat black, and possibly do a light wire tuck.

Now thinking about doing what Preferio suggested a while back and just upgrading the rods, and leaving everything else OEM, save for a Cometic head gasket, and ARP hardware. Could do this for about $1000 versus the $2500-$3500 I would want to spend on a "full" build. I'm not going to be trying for as much horsepower, so I think just upgrading the rods would be sufficient for the next few years.
 
I had a interesting drive into work today... but lets recap a little. last night I backed into my driveway and went to shut off my lights. The lights shut off and came back on. I checked my relay and it was wet a little. Pulled it our for the night for it to dry out. Installed it this morning and everythign functions like normal! Now im up and running without issue or so I think. I got about 1/4th of the my headlights shut off at about 6:10 in the morning. I couldnt get the lights to come back on to save my butt. The only thing I had was my running lights. lol Thankfully I made it to work safe, on time (going a lot slower then normal), and no tickets! lol
 
its not worth it to just replace the rods. You will have to machine the stock pistons to accept a floating wrist pin. A set of wisecos is only 500. Hi boost used to just replace the rods and leave the stock pistons back in the day but the ringlands would crack around 300whp


Because of the uncertainty of this junkyard engine I have decided to wait, and do an OEM rebuild on the replacement. Going to wait until Christmas bonus time, and just buy everything at once. Until then I am going to remove my enine, and clean up the engine bay while it's empty. May paint the bay flat black, and possibly do a light wire tuck.

Now thinking about doing what Preferio suggested a while back and just upgrading the rods, and leaving everything else OEM, save for a Cometic head gasket, and ARP hardware. Could do this for about $1000 versus the $2500-$3500 I would want to spend on a "full" build. I'm not going to be trying for as much horsepower, so I think just upgrading the rods would be sufficient for the next few years.
 

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