What have you done to your MSP today?

not much, personally I liked it on the hot side just because it is not tucked down in the bottom somewhere on my fmic pipe routing on the cold side, and I would rather have it further away from the MAF to reduce any turbulence when the bov goes off, just easier IMO and I didn't want to worry about how close the bov was to the MAF, and I personally thought it looked cleaner on my setup
 
not much, personally I liked it on the hot side just because it is not tucked down in the bottom somewhere on my fmic pipe routing on the cold side, and I would rather have it further away from the MAF to reduce any turbulence when the bov goes off, just easier IMO and I didn't want to worry about how close the bov was to the MAF, and I personally thought it looked cleaner on my setup

I agree with all this. Mine's on the cold side because its easier.
 
its kind of an ordeal to take the valve apart without pulling the section of coldpipe its on. if i get motivated though ill get in there and take the insert out, and take a video.

my valve is tucked between the battery and the fuse box. a perfect little pocket for it.

IMG_5266.jpg
 
what's the difference with the valve anyways? what's it keep it from doing, or allow it to do, mine has a slight flutter in low boost but once it hits 4+psi then it's great, just curious, might try playing with my valve it it's worth the time
 
flutter is the valve not opening fast enough at low or no boost to relieve back pressure. it has nothing to do with the insert. i just drilled couple small holes between the chambers and it blows off real fast now. side effect is without an adjustment screw, it opens at the slightest foot movment. if your cruising in second and your running in vac, if any pressure builds up on the turbo side it will blow the valve and sound all weezy. been meanign to drill/tap and adjustment screw in the back, which would basicly make my v2 into a v1 ha.

the insert serves no purpose other than the sound. removing it doesnt have any effect on the sealing of the valve, even though it may look like it presses against the rubber piston seal. its a metal cored shim thats coated in rubber. no worries.
 
ah, ok, then I will just keep it the way it is, it works great, and I usually don't go real low boost to make it flutter anyways, if I boost it is usually past the flutter point haha
 
I'm thinking I may just keep my dual setup since I have it working with a relocated MAF. I don't want the damn turkey, and I'm not too crazy about drilling holes in my new V3 valve. I already scratched the cover and I'm pretty pissed about it lol. Maybe I will paint the cover black for a 2 tone look.
 
doesn't need to be "in boost" to flutter. sitting at 0 on the boost gauge it is moving enough air to pop the valve, and leave a noticable flutter. hell, as low as 10 hg you can still get it.

read all over the places that these valves suck for many turbo 4 bangers and somone at the evo forums suggested this. i double checked with a user here who has done the mod and is also turkey less, and not running dual valve.
the only downside i guess is that my valve is now a perm fixture to my car and fmic setup. pretty sure i ****** the stock one pulling it all out many times to do repairs anyway.
 
Idk if maybe it was just me, but I loved my HKS, i never had any flutter.
But it looked like ass, and was all ****** up on the outside (bought it used, and then scraped it on the road when my hot pipe blew off) now I have a greddy RS, and I love it.
Just dont really like the weird ass noise it makes when you downshift or let off the gas slowly
 
i love my hks and i get no flutter :) but my buddy on his msp has a hks and gets mad flutter and we cant figure out y
 
ya wow, mine only flutters every once and a while and like I said the real low boosts between 1-3psi sometimes, not even really sure if it does it much if at all anymore, just noticed it first time, but I love it, and it's not really noticeable for most people
 
you keep saying "move" your vacuum block... where was it before?

and removing mine DEFINITELY changed how the valve responds... and I made no other changes.

I had the goofy ass setup with it mounted to my strut bar lol. Did removing it from the vacuum block help at all? I have a free port on my intake mani so I may give that a shot.
 
I had the goofy ass setup with it mounted to my strut bar lol. Did removing it from the vacuum block help at all? I have a free port on my intake mani so I may give that a shot.

take a pic of your vac block... I'm curious.

and removing the vac block made it respond slower, and flutter slightly more, exactly as I'd expect. I'm in a de-mod process with this car, so, it is what it is. I may pull the FMIC off completely. I'm trying to put off that decision until I replace the front lip with my new one.
 
If you dont wanna hear it just run open turbo. Lol doesnt fix the problem but sweeps it out of sight.
 
re-painted calipers, dropped it off for inspection... installing new fog deletes and nk2a's bumper sag fix whenever i get it back.
 

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